Question about Bosch Refrigerators

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Bosch Fridge Freezer (about 12 years old) has stopped working overnight. No power going through it at all, the LED temperature displays and fridge light not working. Checked and changed the fuses and plugged it in to alternative plug socket, still didn't work. No porblem with the house power supply as over electrical appliances work fine. Any suggestions?

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The main board is most likely bad.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

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I have got a Bosch KGV36NW20G Fridge Freezer and it's only 2.5 years old. Some problem has occurred recently. I can hear that water or some fluid is flowing around in the Fridge Freezer all the time, which...


From your description, it sounds like your condensing coil is dirty and needs cleaning. You will probably find the coil and fan inside the back cardboard cover area. Once a condensing coil gets so dirty, the refrigerant condensed in the condenser is so hot that it does little cooling effect because of the internal heat consumes any refrigeration effect left in the refrigerant. This is vary common problem and especially for pet owner. The pet fur and hair get caught in condensing coil and block air flow.
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Maytag GC2225PEKW american fridge freezer stops working if you open fridge or freezer.


it sounds like you have a bad jazz board part 12868513,go here to see it
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/12868513/1472681?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=67004453%20.
unplug the machine,open the fridge door,remove the plastic cover behind the control panel,then feel behind the control panel,you'll feel a slot,one on each side,you stick a screw driver into the slot and push,one at a time and it releases the cover on the control panel, you have to push hard so don't worry the plastic is strong,you'll see the jazz board and a sensor on the right side,just remove the wires and sensor install the new board and reconnect the wires and sensor,then read the instructions that came with the new board and it will tell you how to program it,hope this helps and good luck

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I have a Bosch ksu 44 fridge/freezer which has stopped working - just a click,click,click from the back and the control board led's flash with each click (1.5second intervals) - is it the control...


Very common problem on that fridge and a easy fix: Replace the two big capacitors on the right side of the control PCB 1uF = 0,68uF 250V They lost their capacity causing bad uC supply and this strange LED blinking. Be aware that this blinking can be intermittent and the fridge appears to return to operation. But the uC suffer a lot of internal resets causing intermittent operation stops, low temperature and more not easy recognizable or strange mal functions. So, if You face that blinking normally the capacitors are gone. Some strange and intermittent behaviors of the fridge are also back routed to this PCB - Capacitor malfunction. So enjoy this 30min fix. The capacitors should not exceed US$2 in Your local electronic shop. If You don't want to spend the US$2 You can find the capacitors as a lucky guy in a old PC power supply.
For other more complex problems be aware that the controller board has a very nice and helpful self test option. You go in this mode holding the temperature select button of the refrigerator (not the freezer button) then switch the fridge on and stay on holding the temp button for more 10s. The self test sequence starts in the moment when You release the temp button.
LED 1: Checking sensors (Blinking=OK - Continues=NOK, something wrong)
LED 2: The Flap opens and close two times (Alarm LED shows the open and close position, so the led must go ON and OFF two times in accordance of the detected flap position from the internal reed contact. (So, no action on the Alarm LED no movement on the Flap or a defect Reed contact)
LED 3: Fan goes ON and OFF
LED 4: Drain Heater goes ON and OFF
LED 5: De- Dicer Heater goes ON and OFF
LED 6: Compressor goes ON and OFF
LED 7: End of test sequence - Initializing procedure of normal operation.
Every step takes 30s and the whole sequence take tree and a half minute. Be aware that the alarm LED is no malfunction indicator. It has only the indicator function for the sensors.
The fridge goes in the normal operation mode when he passed the sequence. No further actions necessary.
Be aware that every time when the fridge faced a total power lost he makes a short silent 30s check sequence. If he face a malfunction (Sensors or actuators) he doesn't start the compressor anyway to protect the fridge for further damage!!! So, this test sequence is a nice tool to check that the fridge is in the right conditions to start the working and even so to check the compressor function before maybe a unnecessary replacement .
With a second build in test option you can select and activate devices in the fridge. For this You hold the fast freeze button and switch the fridge on. After 10s release the button and you are in a manual test mode. With the temperature button select the component - Push the Fast freeze button to activate or deactivate. For example: Select LED6 (Compressor) with the temperature button, push the fast freeze button for ON and OFF. But I ask You to be careful on this test mode to avoid further damages. For example a blocked motor that You should release better by hand than blow up by a tricky fingertip. Enjoy this fix and feel free for Crtl C + Crtl V.
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1 Answer

Temperature setting


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1 Answer

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I have the same freezer and get the same problems. Ice forms on the refrigeration fins beind the plastic shroud at the rear and completely blocks the airflow. The fan that moves cool air around does not work then and freezer temp goes up. Ice will often push the shroud forwards so that the door does not close properly. Warm moist air get in and just increases the ice problem.

I take the shroud and fan housing off the rear (4 screws and a wire to the fan) and defrost thoroughly using a hair dryer. You can then see when all the ice has gone..

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