Question about Panasonic CT-32HXC14 32" TV

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Arcing between pins on CRT

There is a random arcing between the pins of the crt neck connection on my CT-32HXC14J, worse on power up , gets less as it warms up. I have isolated it to under the plastic alignment cap that fits over the end of the CRT and its pins. After carefully cutting thru the sealant that holds the plastic cap to the CRT neck and cleaning off as much of the charred and blackened sealant as possible, the arcing has gone away. I need 2 things, 1 what should I check that might have caused it to start arcing, i.e. B+ too high, bias off, loose ground etc. and 2. whats the best way to clean off the glass around the pins to reduce the chance of re arcing? should I use some corona dope coating as well? Thanks

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  • William Strickland
    William Strickland Jan 08, 2008

    I hope thats all that caused it. anyone know where I can buy a replacement CRT base socket , there was no arcing on the neck board socket half so its good to go. I really don't want to leave it without that socket piece. it makes sure the neck board goes on correctly, and helps support the weight so the crt pins are not carrying all the weight. Its been a long time since I worked in consumer electronics so any ideas about a parts supplier that can get me that plastic socket end/guide would be great. I can post a photo and take measurements of it. Is it a generic part or unique for every make of TV?

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  • 372 Answers

Hi.

Your problem is due to moisture in the the Crt base socket you will need to replace the white plastic crt plug I have tried to clean & dry them out but it never fully corrects problem.

As far as the pins & glass crt neck goes clean them with Isopropyl alcohol this will thoroughly clean all the carbon off.

http://dysonmanuals.llc.nu/

Chris..

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

  • chris pursloe
    chris pursloe Jan 08, 2008

    Hi.



    The Crt base socket is manufactured to fit a specific Crt.

    I dont know which country you are in but they are relatively easy to purchase in the UK.

    If your not in the UK try putting the number off the crt in to google & see if there are any suppliers local to you who can sell you the socket.



    http://dysonmanuals.llc.nu/



    Chris...

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I have 36" Panasonic CT-36SX12 TAU series. I had it repaired less than 3 years ago .and the same problem happened again As soon as turned the TV off it wouldn't turn back on .I was told this was the...


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Hi.

Focus voltage on the CRT is usually in the range of 2-8 kV DC and should be controllable over a fairly wide range by the focus pot - usually located on the flyback or a little panel in its vicinity:

If adjusting the pot results in a position of acceptable focus, you may be done. It is not unusual for the focus setting to drift a over time.

If the setting is already as good as possible but not really good enough, the CRT may be tired. Alternatively, the filament voltage may be too low. Check for bad connections in the filament circuit.

If the optimal setting is out of range of the focus pot, the problem is likely leakage in the focus divider in the flyback or one of the components on the CRT neck board.

Also see the sections: "Focus adjustment" and "Focus drifts with warmup".

The focus wire usually comes from the flyback or if the general area or from a terminal on a voltage multiplier module in some cases. It is usually a wire by itself going to the little board on the neck of the CRT.

If a sparkgap (a little 2 terminal device with a 1/8" gap in the middle) is arcing with power on, then the resistive divider has shorted inside the flyback, focus board, or HV multiplier - whatever you TV has - and the this unit will need to be replaced. Ditto if the SCREEN control affects focus and/or vice-versa.

Using a suitable high voltage meter (range at least 10 kVDC, 1000 M ohm or greater input impedance), you should be able to measure it connected and disconnected. The ground return will be the outside coating of the CRT which may or may not be the same as the metal chassis parts. If the voltage is very low (less than 2 kV) or too high and the pot has little effect:

When measured right off of the source disconnected from the CRT neck board, then the problem is probably in the focus network in the flyback (or wherever it originates). Sometimes these can be disassembled and cleaned or repaired but usually requires replacement of the entire flyback or voltage multiplier. Note: you may need to add a HV (10 kV) capacitor between the focus wire and DAG ground to provide filtering so you get a DC level for your meter.

When measured with the focus wire attached to the CRT neck board with the CRT connected but reasonable with the CRT unplugged, there is probably a short between the focus and another electrode inside the CRT. See the section: Rescuing a shorted CRT.

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1 Answer

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2 Answers

Replacing CRT neck socket after arcing problem.


Hi.

Don't know what happened to the last post I sent you its disappeared.

What I think you should do is definately replace the CRT white socket (tube base plug).
You can either take the CRT number from the label on the tube & put it in to google then search for Crt base plug.
Or see if there is A repair shop local to you who can order the tube base for you.
Are you definately sure the arcing is external to tube & not happening in the tube neck ?
Is the CRT made by LG / PHILIPS. These are notorius for for arcing over internally I must write at least 1 A week off for this problem.

If you can still run the set try tapping the neck of tube with screwdriver handle if pic flashes or goes predominately1 colour you are looking at the tube with internal short.

If this is the case there are ways of trying to get rid of the internal short let me know what you find ?

http://dysonmanuals.llc.nu/

Chris...

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1 Answer

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