Question about LG DLE0332 Gas Dryer
First thing to check is the ignitor underneath the drum. (You have to open the panel to see it) It should glow shortly after the dryer starts, then the flame starts and the ignitor shuts off. If the ignitor does not glow then it or the thermostat is bad. If the ignitor is glowing but the gas does not light then the flame sensor may have to be replaced. If the gas ignites but does not stay on either the flame sensor or the coils are at fault.
See also: http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-dryer.htm
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer Motor Removal
stand that baby up!!! acess is from front, try removeig 2 screws from under lint filter and then pop top with screw driver lean top back.. youll see the tub and belt(if not broken right there),no belt??? order a 341241 whirlpool dryer belt. 2 5/16screws on either side of iside facade remoivefront caver, disconnect door switch and remove front panel. belt slips over drum , you need to reset tension pulley and wrap around motor shaft. .
Posted on Feb 26, 2008
SOURCE: dryer does not release any heat
Is yours the gas model? If so I need you to look for some things. Open back door panel and see if while trying to light the igniter is glowing orange. Sea Breeze
Posted on May 22, 2009
So,. basically your drum doesnt turn. SO your getting heat still even though the drum isnt turning. Is this right? Sounds strange??? Do you hear any humming noise when you push the start button? I need to know a little more about the problem because im kinda confused as how you decribed the problem. Iv never seen a dryer heat but the drum not spinning. especially your model dryer. Its electric heat right? because if the drum doesnt spin, maybe your motor is bad. and if your motor is bad, then your heating element wont heat up because the centrifical switch in the motor is not switching to complete the circuit to the heating element. So this is why im confused when you said" Dryer heats when knob turned but when "push button" pressed, drum doesnt run." Because your belt wraps around the motor pully and the motor is what makes the drum turn. Like i said, i never seen this model dryer heat with out the motor operating. So if you can give me some more info, ill do my best to help you out....Thanks!!!!
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If the model number is correct, the part numbers you may need are:
Thermal Cut-Out/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit - 279816
Heating Element - 279838
If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.
Posted on Dec 02, 2009
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If everything else in the dryer is working fine and it won't heat so it means that the thermal fuse which is located inside the rear panel on the blower wheel housing is bad and needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
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