Question about Mitsubishi WT-42311 42" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

Mitsubishi model # wt-4609 .. won't come on... error code blinks two times pauses then two more

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  • 8 more comments 
  • maddoxfam4 Nov 12, 2009

    sorry ,, the model number is wt-46809..

    Thanks ;)

  • maddoxfam4 Nov 13, 2009

    Yes, if you could post the step by step instructions.. it would be tons of help.. thank you so much..
    also, I noticed that you said that it was alright to buy these fuses on ebay.. I have read on other posts about this issue to not buy from ebay or radio shack, for their convergence weren't as strong as the ones that you can buy from manufactor... is this true?
    thanks again for the info, I would be completly lost without it :0).
    chris

  • maddoxfam4 Nov 13, 2009

    my set doesn't do anything when you turn it on... no picture, sound, anything... got the 2-2 code by pushing power on button then reseting then holding menu and input... is this normal.. or am i looking at replacing the bulb also???

  • maddoxfam4 Nov 13, 2009

    maddoxfam4@gmail.com

    thanks a bunch!

    do you think that the ones sold at radio shack would crap out sooner than ones purchased from ebay??

  • maddoxfam4 Nov 13, 2009

    should i replace fuses also... what kind are they for this model... scaned through the step by step process and didn't see any thing about the fuses...or are the convergence ics the fuses??
    going to order all needed items from your ebay sorce..asap
    thanks so much for all your help

  • maddoxfam4 Nov 13, 2009

    ...is it called a pico fuse?? 5 amp.. I just want to get the right stuff.... and is there a possiblity that it might JUST be the fuses and not the convergence ic.. or should i go ahead and get those too..

  • maddoxfam4 Nov 13, 2009

    would
    pico fuse 5 amp be the correct fuses to purchase?

  • maddoxfam4 Dec 04, 2009

    woo hoo followed your instructions to the tee.. FIXED.. however at the right top there is a faint red blue yellow dancing line.. not too noticable yet.. do you think that this is just a smuge,, reflecting ..

    thanks sooo much for all your help... I came across another tv..same issue we think.. different model.. i will post that question to ya in a bit.. YOUR AWESOME!!!

  • maddoxfam4 Dec 04, 2009

    Hi, again,,, couldn't figure out how to get to you .. again.. so here is my other tv question
    I have a mitsubishi model# ws-55511. seems like the red is off.. has some red lines and seems to be duplicating things in red.. does the convergence ic need replaced on this.. or what do you think????
    Thanks so much..

  • maddoxfam4 Dec 04, 2009

    yes could you please post the instructions or email maddoxfam4@gmail.com
    for model ws-55511.. will i need to purchase fuses also??

×

1 Answer

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  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 14,553 Answers

This is error code for short protection--95% of the time in this model it means one of the soldered in fuses that protect the convergence circuit is blown.

Both convergence chips and the blown fuse or fuses need to be located and replaced----if you give me the full correct model number I will tell you which parts it uses.

Some people are able to do this repair themselves--depending on model number you would begin by unplugging the set and testing the fuses for the convergence circuit--if either or both are bad the chips for the convergence circuit got them--just changing the fuse will do no good--and can do more harm.

Let me know model number ---wt- and 5 numbers usually

if this helped you, rate this solution as I do this here for FREE.

SD TECH

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

Testimonial: "sorry the model # is wt-46809"

  • 9 more comments 
  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 12, 2009

    THAT model uses two of the STK-392-570 CONVERGENCE CHIPS.

    This set because it is 46 inch is a little tougher to get at the chips then some of the others--a lot of stuff crowded inside the set.

    There on the middle circuit board (as you look from the back) is a large metal heat sink with fins near the front--the chips are on the front side of this. The row of fuses that protect are about 5 inches behind the heat sink towards the rear and just to the left of middle----they are green in color and look like resistors--each will have a location number printed next to them on the top of the board---the two towards the back of the set should be 9FA04 and 9FA05----both are 5 amp and can be tested with the set UNPLUGGED just like any fuse.

    If you find either or both are bad--you need to get at the chips by removing the entire middle circuit board--they and the fuses are both soldered in---so you need to be able to solder as well.

    I HAVE START TO FINISH, STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS FOR THIS REPAIR IN THIS TYPE OF SET------IF you think you or someone you know can do it for you--let me know and I will post the instructions here--they tell how to do the repair and everything you will need---if the fuses are bad your total parts cost on EBAY (I can tell you the seller there to look for) would be under 20 dollars.


    Most shops are going to get at least 300 or more for this repair--if you get someone to do it for you make sure both chips get changed (some clowns will replace just one) or you will have the same trouble again in a few months.

    This repair should be able to be done right in your home---takes about 1 hour and I know as I have done hundreds of them.

    Once the set is repaired it should not have this problem again for 5 - 8 years--lifespan of the chips.


    Let me know if you have questions and if you did not yet do it---rate this solution.

    SD TECH


  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 13, 2009

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    Mitsubishi convergence IC replacement: this applies to sets
    that use (2) STK-392-570





    The Idea here is to get the Middle Circuit board out so you
    can replace the Convergence Ic’s.








    HERE is what you will need: (most of this you can buy on the
    internet or at local electronics stores)





    Two new: STK-392-570 CONVERGENCE IC’S


    One good soldering iron


    Solder


    De soldering braid or wick


    Liquid flux


    Heat sink compound (grease)


    Denatured alcohol


    One short Philips screwdriver


    One small clean toothbrush


    One electric screw gun to REMOVE screws





    Turn the set on and examine the picture for how the
    Convergence looks bad---when you are done examine it again---once in a great
    while you will get and install a new IC that is bad. Remember this when you
    have finished—if the convergence is still bad but different from what you
    started with you may have installed a new I.C. that was bad. Turn the Set off.









    1. Unplug
      set.

    2. Remove
      back cover.

    3. Remove
      front speaker grill and inspection plate behind it.

    4. Remove
      the 2 or 3 black screws that go thru the back edge of the plastic frame
      that hold the chassis down.

    5. Where
      all the video and audio jacks are on the right edge of them you will see a
      diagonal plastic (Black) remove the two brass screws from the outside
      edge, remove another to the right bottom and a third smaller screw forward
      and to the left; remove plastic piece and all four screws and set them
      aside.

    6. Look
      carefully at main board in center of the set.

    7. You
      will find a number of screws hold it into the plastic frame.

    8. Towards
      the left back edge of this (to the right of the plastic you removed) you
      will find a metal cover with a small screw on either end. It has a lot of round holes punched in
      it.

    9. Remove
      both screws and pull the shield up and off---remove the board beneath it
      by releasing the two tabs on the bottom right side and pulling the board
      out—handle it with care as it is the digital convergence board that stores
      the set’s memory of adjustments.
      Set it aside

    10. At
      this point you need to pull the entire Chassis back at least a few
      inches---If it does not slide back look for a plastic latch on either side
      near the front of it. Some sets
      have the latches on the left or right side—black plastic tabs that lift
      up.





  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 13, 2009

    Part TWO:







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    1. Usually
    the board has 2 screws in the front and rear corners of the board and one
    almost dead center in the middle of the board---make sure you get all of them
    out before you remove the board.


    2. When
    you removed the back there was a diagonal board that slides out just below the
    lens; pull it out and it will give you more room to continue.


    3. There
    are a number of plugs on the board. Some
    of these sets have a small circuit board located at the very front of the
    middle board with plugs going into in, release the tabs at the bottom and pull
    the board up and out of your way. Now
    you should see 5 white fold over plugs---three on the left edge and two on the
    right---do not touch them yet.


    4. With
    the little board(if your set has it) out, unplug the several plugs at the front
    edge of the board(they are all idiot proof---different number of pins so you
    cannot put them in the wrong place) and are marked with letters that are also
    marked on the board. There is another 2
    wire plug mid way to the right side of the board.


    5. Now
    the Tricky part: the 3 ivory color plugs on the left side that fold over and 2
    more on the right side. You need to do
    this carefully---with a small flat bladed screwdriver pull up on one end until
    each comes loose(the reason we removed the board under the shield and the
    plastic piece (there usually is also a plug under it that you need to unplug)
    is to make this part more easy.


    6. Once
    you have all 5 of these lifted up and out of the way check to make sure you
    have not left any plugs still attached to the board.


    7. Pull
    the entire chassis back as far as you can get it (you may have to release wires
    on either side of the set from the plastic ties that bundle them---take your
    time).





    Note the very large metal Heat
    sink in the middle board towards the front; if you look from the front of the
    set thru the inspection plate you will see both IC’s with a metal plate that
    runs across them from left to right----there are three screws to remove
    here---two ways to get them out: you can remove them from the front of the set
    or what I do is use a short Philips and get them from the back by touch. Get all three out and remove the metal plate
    and set all aside.





    8. From
    the back of the set slide the chassis as far back as you can. There are 3 more screws on the front edge of
    the heat sink that hold it to the board and the middle one has a wire with a
    connector on it. This is the reason you
    need to get the chassis back; the screws are identical to the others and go
    thru the circuit board into the frame where it is mounted.


    9. You
    should now be able to lift the entire Heat sink from the set (sometimes you may
    need a putty knife to break the two IC chips loose from it) Set it aside and
    look the board over to make sure you have not missed any of the identical brass
    colored screws. Move any plugs clear of
    the board. There are 2 or 3 tiny
    plastic tabs at the front edge of the board; push them and lift the board up
    from the frame---do it slowly and if you missed any screws you will find it
    binds somewhere. The board lifts up
    front and is tucked into notches on the back side---Once it is clear of the
    plugs remove it from the set. You are
    halfway home.










  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 13, 2009

    Part Three:







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    1. From
    the back of the set slide the chassis as far back as you can. There are 3 more screws on the front edge of
    the heat sink that hold it to the board and the middle one has a wire with a
    connector on it. This is the reason you
    need to get the chassis back; the screws are identical to the others and go
    thru the circuit board into the frame where it is mounted.


    2. You
    should now be able to lift the entire Heat sink from the set (sometimes you may
    need a putty knife to break the two IC chips loose from it) Set it aside and
    look the board over to make sure you have not missed any of the identical brass
    colored screws. Move any plugs clear of
    the board. There are 2 or 3 tiny
    plastic tabs at the front edge of the board; push them and lift the board up
    from the frame---do it slowly and if you missed any screws you will find it
    binds somewhere. The board lifts up
    front and is tucked into notches on the back side---Once it is clear of the
    plugs remove it from the set. You are
    halfway home.


    3. With
    the board removed look at the dozen or so light blue resistors right in front
    of the two STK IC’s; if any of them look somewhat white in the middle you need
    to replace them—they are all 3.9 ohm and you can check them with a multi-meter
    just like checking a fuse-I usually check them all even if they look good
    (saves having to pull the board out a second time). They are protection in case some part of the
    two IC’s short. If the resistors are all
    good you need to un-solder both of the STK’s.


    4. With
    a good soldering iron use a braided wick (called a de-solder braid—radio shack
    has them) and to make it easier use some liquid flux---most electronics stores
    sell this. These sets all use lead free
    solder and it may not be easy to unsolder without the flux put on it first.


    5. Once
    you have unsoldered both and removed them take some denatured alcohol with a
    tooth brush and clean the bottom of the board where the STK’s were soldered
    in—this gets all the flux and any tiny solder specs out of the way. Let the
    board dry for a minute or so and look at it carefully---if you have to, use the
    de-solder wick again and clean up any solder on the board where the IC’s came
    thru—clean again with alcohol if you need to—the cleaner the surface the better
    and faster the new solder will attach.








    6. Install
    each of the new IC’s one at a time---make sure all the pins are straight or you
    will have problems getting them in—with one in place hold it and turn the board
    over and solder the pins at either end to keep it there; AT THIS POINT APPLY
    MORE SOLDER FLUX TO ALL THE PINS BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE IC IN! Straighten it if you did not get it upright
    and finish soldering all the pins. When
    you are done repeat this with the second IC and then with a good light take a
    very close look at all the pins to make sure they are all soldered and not
    touching another pin. You can also use
    the denatured alcohol again to clean all the pins on the two IC’s you just
    soldered.


    7. With
    both IC’s soldered install the circuit board back into the set---back edge
    first into the notches at the back of the plastic frame---make sure you do not
    hang up on any plugs or connectors; with the front edge of the board gently push
    down until the tabs on the front edge engage—the board must be perfectly
    straight to go in correctly.


    8. With
    a putty knife remove all the old white grease from the heat sink (careful—this
    stuff stains hands or clothing) and clean the heat sink with denatured alcohol.
    You are now ready to attach many of the plugs back to the board; you will find
    if you do it now it is easier to reach them with the heat sink removed---put
    all of the main plugs back and leave the fold over plugs for last. If you had the model with the small plug in
    circuit board on the front of the main board—install it after you have
    installed the plugs in front of it.







  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 13, 2009

    Part Four:







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    1. A
    note about the 3 plugs on the left edge and the two on the right edge---you
    have to be careful when you snap them back in---sometimes one of the metal pins
    will lift up when you do this---hold your fingers down and apply even
    pressure---if you see any metal pin sticking up a little use a fine flat bladed
    screwdriver and carefully push it back down into the plug.


    2. Presuming
    you have now installed the board and have ALL the plugs back in place, slide
    the chassis back until the latches engage---any wires or cables you moved to
    get room you should now put back into the plastic hold off that contained
    them—clean up!


    3. Before
    you install the heat sink back, apply heat sink grease (important and you can
    get it at almost any electronics supplier that sells the liquid Flux and
    solder) This grease is the reason the original IC’s failed—after several years
    it dries out and an IC cannot move the heat fast enough---the grease is for
    quick transfer of heat from the IC to the metal heat sink.


    4. Now:
    if you used an electric screw gun to remove screws---do not use it to put them
    back—it is very easy to crack and damage the board if you use a screw gun and
    to strip the screws that go into the heat sink.


    5. Place
    the greased heat sink back in position and attach the 3 screws that hold it to
    and thru the board---I find starting all three and then tightening them by hand
    works best; don’t forget to put the wire with the grommet back to the middle
    screw.


    6. Replace
    the metal plate that goes across the chips and hold it in place until you get
    the middle screw back in (it has tabs that engage into little holes) once you get all three of the plate screws
    back in tighten them down firm (they
    hold the IC’s tight to the heat sink).


    7. With
    the heat sink installed, install the board on the left side back by plugging it
    in and install the metal box over it and the screws front and back by hand.


    8. Check
    that you have all the plugs you removed plugged back in.


    9. Replace
    all the screws that hold the board into the plastic frame.


    10. Install the
    diagonal plastic piece you removed and by hand replace the 4 screws that hold
    it in place.










  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 13, 2009

    Part Five:








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    1. Take
    a good look now to make sure all the plugs are back in place and installed
    correctly.


    2. Slide
    the entire Chassis back into place.


    3. Before
    you replace the screws that hold the chassis down (usually 2 or three long
    screws) turn the set on and see what you have----if it comes on and looks
    fairly normal you are ready to proceed.


    4. Replace
    the slide board (diagonal) you removed and wipe the three large lens with a
    lens cloth or clean with a paper towel with glass cleaner sprayed on it---if
    the lens are dusty the picture will be a bit darker and dull looking. Don’t worry about the mirror, it usually is
    ok.


    5. If
    the set has come on and looks ok, replace the long screws that anchor the
    chassis and put the back cover on the set.


    6. At
    this point you have two choices---you can go into the customer menu and select
    CONVERGENCE---there will be detailed instructions on screen for the center and
    fine adjustments---MOST Mitsubishi sets need to have the convergence adjusted
    in the regular and then in the HD mode---go to a HD channel if you have HD
    signal and adjust the convergence there.


    7. There
    is a TECHNICAL mode where you can do this but it requires knowing a number
    sequence by MODEL number---it adjusts just like the customer mode but IT SAVES
    THESE ADJUSTMENTS INTO THE SET’S MEMORY.
    Adjusting in the customer menu may not save the adjustments—if the set
    gets unplugged it will go back to whatever it was before. In the Technical mode you enter by pushing
    MENU and a 4 digit number code for the model you have and then pushing enter,
    you exit by pushing HOME on the remote twice—all this is done with the original
    Mitsubishi remote—you need to have an original working remote for this.


    8. If
    you were careful and lucky all went well and you now have a working set. The
    two new IC’s should be good for 3 to 5 years and many go 8 years.


    9. If
    you had any problems recheck everything you did in the process to make sure you
    missed nothing----take your time and usually it works fine.


    10. I have done
    this hundreds of times and usually it is easy---it sounds a little complicated
    but after you do it once it gets easy---!











  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 13, 2009

    OK, COPY AND PASTE THE INSTRUCTIONS TO YOUR COMPUTER--EDIT OUT THE JUNK--IT IS THERE BECAUSE THE DOCUMENT WAS WRITTEN IN word.

    I may have duplicated parts of it--IT IS TOO LARGE TO POST HERE UNLESS I BREAK IT UP INTO THE SMALLER 1 PAGE SEGMENTS.

    IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS LET ME KNOW--

    The best place to get the chips and fuses is on Ebay----select search, then advanced search, then search by seller--------------------sewsales55-----is the seller I use--Company is called Suburban Electronics and is in Maryland--quick shipper and good product---The chips for a pair are under 13 dollars and he also sells 5 of the fuses for 2.95.

    I have photos of the fuses and the blue resistors you need to look at but no way to post them here--I am not ALLOWED to ask for your email...........but


    SD TECH

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 13, 2009

    The fuses are near the middle of the center board and are in a row----green in color and soldered in; the two closest to the back of the set are FA904,FA905 and are 5 amp----you can test them like any fuse--As Far as Ebay goes---I have bought over 300 chips from the seller and only 2 were bad. He replaced them for free.

    If it is dead you need to find and check the fuses first.

    SD TECH

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 13, 2009

    if either fuse is blown the chips got them---if you go to all the work to get at the fuses it makes no sense----I have seen people try this and sometimes other parts then get taken out with the new fuses--the point is WHENEVER ONE OF THOSE TWO FUSES IS BAD--YOU MUST CHANGE THEM AND THE CHIPS.

    SD TECH

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Nov 14, 2009

    Yes, 5 amp you will on Ebay at the seller I indicated see what they look like also--

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Dec 04, 2009

    wT-46809 USES TWO CHIPS AND THE OTHER MODEL USES JUST ONE--IF CONVERGENCE ON THAT ONE WILL NOT ADJUST IN THE ADVANCED MENU YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE stK393-110 that model uses--I HAVE INSTRUCTIONS FOR IT--SIMILAR TO THE OTHER BUT DIFFERENT--LET ME KNOW AND I WILL POST THEM HERE OR IF YOU HAVE AN EMAIL I CAN SEND THEM TO YOU--I AM NOT ALLOWED TO ask your email here.

    SD TECH

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1 Answer

65" mitsubishi rear projection tv won't turn


IF model number posted is correct and green power light comes on for a few seconds and then goes off:
On front of set press and hold both the Menu and Input (device) buttons at the same time for at least five seconds and release both buttons.

Power light will then blink a two digit error code like 2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and repeat it several times.

Let me know what error code is found and I will tell you what it means.

SD TECH
10_10_2011_10_01_13_pm.jpg

Oct 09, 2011 | Mitsubishi WS-65611 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

When I turn the tv on,,it just turn off,,


do the self check this model has. When green power light goes out on the front of the set press and hold both the menu and input (device) buttons at the same time for at least 5 seconds and then let go of both.

Power light (green) should blink a two digit code like 2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and repeat it several times.

Let me know what error code you find and I will tell you what it means.

SD TECH

Sep 14, 2011 | Mitsubishi WT-46809 46" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Turned off and power light blinks


Hi,
Please let me know if the blinks separated with a pause, if so first blinks is denoting the first digit then pause blinks again denoting the second digit. Example, if the error code is "22" the unit will blinks two times pause blinks 2 times and will repeat the error code. It will help to determine where the fault came from.
Jdvillanueva

Jun 24, 2011 | Mitsubishi WT-46809 46" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

On my mitsubishi wt-46809 the error code is 2 blinks pause 2 blinks. What is this?


it is short protection and means one of the fuses for the convergence circuit is blown.

I can help with this if you want.

SD TECH

Jan 14, 2011 | Mitsubishi WT-46809 46" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Mitsubishi model Wt-46807 Power shuts down after turning on. Tried the solution of pressing the menu & input buttons at same time for at least 5 seconds. Power light error code was 2 blinks/pause 2...


hi,
Error code 2-2 indicates "Short Protect Circuit" problem in tv.
Need to check pico fuses in power supply as one or two got blown due to bad convergence chips.
Below is an exploded view of tv chassis, power supply and convergence area has been marked to give you better idea to look for pico fuses.
Unplug tv from wall socket before to repair/check any thing inside tv.
Hope these info will help you.
Let me know if you have additional question.
Thanks.

763826c.jpg

Oct 16, 2010 | Mitsubishi WT-46807 46" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

When i press power the timer light flashes and the T.V. turns on and right back off.


If model number is WT-42311 do the self check the set has.

When power light comes on and then goes off, on front of set press both the Menu and Input (device) buttons at the same time and hold for at least 5 seconds and then release both buttons.

Power light will blink a two digit error code like: 2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and the repeat the code several times.

Let me know what the error code is and I will tell you what it means.

If this has helped you, rate this solution as very helpful as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

Oct 03, 2010 | Mitsubishi WT-42311 42" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

I have a mitsubishi wt-42315. when i turn it on it shuts down right away. any thoughts?


Do the self check this model has.

When you turn it on and green power light goes out:

on front of set press and hold both the menu and input (or device) buttons at the same time for at least 5 seconds and release both buttons.

The power light will blink a two digit error code like 2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and repeat it several times.

Let me know what error code you find and I will tell you what problem is.

If this helped rate this solution as very helpful as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

Sep 20, 2010 | Mitsubishi WT-42315 42" TV

1 Answer

When I go to turn it on it clicks and then clicks off


do the self check this model has and let me know what you find:

when it shuts off press ON THE FRONT OF THE TV both the menu and input (or device) buttons at the same time for at least five seconds and release both buttons.

The power light will blink a two digit error code.

for example---2 blinks, a pause and 2 blinks (this is the most common error code)

Let me know what code you find and I will tell you what it means and what can be done.

If this helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

Dec 15, 2009 | Mitsubishi WT-42311 42" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Tv turns on then right off


NEXT TIME IT SHUTS DOWN: when green light goes out on THE FRONT OF THE SET: press and hold BOTH the menu and input buttons at the same time for at least 5 seconds and then release both.

This is the self check this model has---power light should blink a two digit code---for example--two blinks, a pause and two blinks and the set will repeat the error code about 10 times.

1 blinks and then 2 blinks is NO ERROR DETECTED
2 blinks and then 2 blinks is short protect

ETC.....Let me know if you get an error code and I will tell you what the problem is---hope you find 2,2 that is the most common and the most easy to repair.

SD TECH

Oct 22, 2009 | Mitsubishi WT-46809 46" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

When I turn on my tv it will shut off


Model number is WT-46809?


If set comes on for a moment and then goes off(green power light)

ON THE FRONT OF THE SET PRESS BOTH menu AND input at the same time and hold both buttons in for at least 5 seconds---then release both buttons.

Watch the power light---it should blink a two digit code---ERROR CODE---
The most common is 2 blinks, a pause and 2 blinks-----set will repeat the error code about 10 times.


If you find this error code let me know the blinks and I will tell you what it means and may be able to tell you what is needed to correct it.

SD TECH

Oct 20, 2009 | Mitsubishi WT-46809 46" Rear Projection...

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