Question about Whirlpool Dryers
Hi. From what you have stated in your post, it has led me to the conclusion that you issues are within the burner assembly. I would check the ignition, and gas valve coils, as well. With a bit of visual and physical inspecting, you will find the issue in one or more of the areas stated below.
The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.
The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.
If the ignitor is ok, and functional, move on to the Gas valve coils.
GAS VALVE COILS
On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have any heat. This will also cause the heating to stop, during the cycle.(weak solenoid structure)
The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.
If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then goes out after 5 to 10 minutes, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.
OK, if all is well, and the air flow is sufficient, this will confirm that the control sector is the culprit. The timer will need to be replaced i this case.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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If your dryer is not heating, then check if the power cord is plugged into the wall. It may be loose or disconnected. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working. Now, check whether the heating element in your gas dryer is burned out by using an ohm meter to check for continuity. If the continuity is not there then you would need to replace the element. After checking the element, check out the thermal fuse to see if it's burned out. The thermal fuse is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. It's usually surrounded by a black resin material situated in a housing made of white plastic. If the fuse looks like it
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