Question about Whirlpool Dryers

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I have a Whirlpool gas dryer model # WGD5900SWO. It tumbles but no heat after 10 min. I cleared the exhaust hose and continuity tested the fuse, thermostat, thermister and cut-off; all show 1-3 ohms resistance. Nothing seems burnt out or I would get no heat at all? Again; the first 10 min. are fine then cool. TYVM for any ideas.

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  • jaykay2 Nov 12, 2009

    I will not be able to perform these tests until the week-end so I will not know the results until Monday.

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Hi. From what you have stated in your post, it has led me to the conclusion that you issues are within the burner assembly. I would check the ignition, and gas valve coils, as well. With a bit of visual and physical inspecting, you will find the issue in one or more of the areas stated below.

IGNITOR

The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the unit the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.


The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.

If the ignitor is ok, and functional, move on to the Gas valve coils.


GAS VALVE COILS


On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have any heat. This will also cause the heating to stop, during the cycle.(weak solenoid structure)

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then goes out after 5 to 10 minutes, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.


OK, if all is well, and the air flow is sufficient, this will confirm that the control sector is the culprit. The timer will need to be replaced i this case.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Nov 12, 2009

    PROPER TESTING PROCEDURE FOR THERMOSTATS AND FUSE

    To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity. replace any thermostat, or fuse that fails the test.


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Whirlpool gas dryer runs but does not heat. I checked continuity on all the safety devices and they all checked out OK. what else can I check?


Hello there and welcome to fixya
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Aug 16, 2011 | Whirlpool GGW9868K Gas Dryer

Tip

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 2


TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following situations occur: Dryer does not heat Heat will not shut off
This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system:
Harness/connection, Heater relay, Thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, High limit thermostat, Gas burner assembly,
Centrifugal switch, Exhaust thermistor, Machine control electronics, Gas supply. Dryer does not heat:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the back panel to access the thermal components.
3. Perform TEST #4b. If the thermal fuse is OK, go to step 4.
4. Perform TEST #4c. If the thermal cut-off is OK, go to step 5.
5. Locate the high limit thermostat. Measure the continuity through it by connecting the meter probes on the
red wire and blue wire terminals. If there is an open circuit, replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff.
Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. Perform TEST #4d. If this is OK, replace the machine control electronics.
Heat will not shut off:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the connector. If 5–15 k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics. If the resistance is greater than 20 k ohms, replace the exhaust thermistor.
TEST #4a Exhaust Thermistor
The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. If wire connections are OK, check exhaust thermistor resistance per step 5.
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C)
in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows:
TEMP
SETTING HEAT TURNS
OFF* HEAT TURNS
ON High 155° ± 5°F
(68°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Medium 140° ± 5°F
(60°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Low 125° ± 5°F
(52°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Extra Low 105° ± 5°F
(41°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature The measured overshoot using the glass
bulb thermometer in the exhaust outlet can
be 30°F (17°C) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (redwhite wire) at the connector. If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground. If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
disconnected from power. The following table gives temperatures and ranges for the associated thermistor resistance values.
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
50° (10°) 19.0 -22.0 80° (27°) 8.5-10.5 60° (16°) 14.8-16.8 90° (32°) 6.8-8.8 70° (21°) 11.5-13.5 100° (38°) 5.0-7.0 If the thermistor resistance does not agree with table, replace the exhaust thermistor. If the thermistor resistance checks agree with the measurements in the table, replace the machine control electronics.
TEST #4b Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal fuse by first removing the back panel.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal fuse.
TEST #4c Thermal Cut-Off
If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal cut-off by first removing the back panel. .
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust
system.

TEST #4d Gas Valve
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the gas valve by removing the front panel and drum assembly.
3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has failed. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across terminals.

on Apr 11, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool AWZ7303 condensing tumble dryer . Drum not turning although it is heating


If your Whirlpool dryer has mysteriously stopped producing heat, a blown thermal fuse may be the cause of your problem. In Whirlpool dryers, thermal fuses are safety switches that are designed to disrupt the flow of electricity to your dryer's heating mechanisms once the dryer reaches a predetermined maximum temperature, usually somewhere around 180 degrees F. Thankfully, troubleshooting the thermal fuse in a Whirlpool dryer is easier than it sounds. Instructions:

  • Clean out the lint screen in your Whirlpool clothes dryer. Lint buildup can cause your dryer to overheat, triggering the thermal fuse to disrupt power to your dryer's heating mechanisms. Take the lint screen out of your Whirlpool dryer and wash it in warm water. Dry the screen thoroughly before replacing it.
  • Look behind the dryer to check its flexible exhaust hose for kinks or obstructions. Disconnect the exhaust hose from the back of your dryer and clean out any lint that has built up.
  • Go outside and check your Whirlpool dryer's exhaust vent for obstructions. Lint buildup, bird nests or other obstructions in the outside exhaust vent can trigger your dryer's thermal fuse.
  • Disconnect your dryer from its power source before attempting to access its thermal fuse.
  • Access the thermal fuse in your Whirlpool dryer by removing the back panel. Remove the screws that hold the back panel in place and it should easily come free.
  • Look between the dryer's blower housing and exhaust to locate its thermal fuse. The thermal fuse in a Whirlpool dryer looks like a white plastic strip that has two wires connected to it.
  • Bypass the thermal fuse in your Whirlpool dryer while you perform a quick diagnostic test. Use electrical tape to tape together the two wires connected to the thermal fuse. Reassemble your dryer and plug it back in. Set the dryer to a timed heated drying cycle and press "Start." If the dryer produces heat with its thermal fuse bypassed, it means the thermal fuse needs to be replaced.
  • Replace a blown thermal fuse in your Whirlpool dryer. Disconnect the power and remove the back panel. Remove the electrical tape that you used to perform the diagnostic test and disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse. Remove the screws that secure the thermal fuse to the dryer and discard the blown fuse. Attach the replacement thermal fuse by replacing and tightening the screws. Attach the wires to the new thermal fuse.
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    1 Answer

    My gas dryer does not heat at all. I behind the lint screen was full of lint. I cleaned that out and still does not start to heat. Can you tell me what I should look for next? Thanks,



    Hi

    If your dryer is not heating, then check if the power cord is plugged into the wall. It may be loose or disconnected. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working. Now, check whether the heating element in your gas dryer is burned out by using an ohm meter to check for continuity. If the continuity is not there then you would need to replace the element. After checking the element, check out the thermal fuse to see if it's burned out. The thermal fuse is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. It's usually surrounded by a black resin material situated in a housing made of white plastic. If the fuse looks like it

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    1 Answer

    Dryer Model LGR 8620PW0. Dryer initially heats up for three minutes, then heat shuts down. Glow coil comes back on, but no gas ignition. Glow coil continues to do this. Thermal fuse is good. Limits are...


    try clearing out the exhaust duct that runs from the back of the dryer to the outside of the house. If this is clogged then this will limit air flow therefore by extinguishing you fire. An easy test to figure this out would be to remove the hose from the back of the dryer and see if you get the same results. If you get the same results try checking all the traps for lint and debris.

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    1 Answer

    Whirlpool gas dryer. Only few min.( less than 5min) heat work.


    there is a thermal fuse inside the dryer it is a one time fuse also there is an ignitor that could be bad

    Jul 03, 2009 | Whirlpool WGD5300S Dryer

    1 Answer

    Also have a Whirlpool dryer that tumbles but no heat. Model # GGC9858EQ1. Tried replacing the ignitor, but still no heat. Any other suggestions?


    Hi!

    Please check the thermal fuse, this fuse blows and can only be replaced not repaired. Check for the continuity in the fuse using a multimeter.
    3332e89.jpg

    Please revert for any clarifications.

    Please rate this solution as FixYa if found useful.

    Thanks
    Rylee

    Mar 13, 2009 | Whirlpool GGQ8831L Gas Dryer

    1 Answer

    Whirlpool 29"gas dryer Model#LGN2000LW1


    i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

    Power from the house
    Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


    Heating element
    Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


    Thermal fuse
    On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


    Wiring
    A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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    2 Answers

    DRYER BLOWING COLD AIR-NOT HEATING UP


    i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

    Power from the house
    Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


    Heating element
    Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


    Thermal fuse
    On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


    Wiring
    A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

    Nov 04, 2008 | Whirlpool LGR7646E Dryer

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    Dryer tumbles won't heat


    The problem could be related to one of the following; Not enough power from the house, a bad or broken heating element, a bad thermal fuse, or a brake in the wiring.

    Solution
    Check the house voltage for 220-240
    Do a continuity test on the heating element.
    Do OHM reading on thermal fuse.
    Check wiring to heating element.

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