Question about Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer
When I go to start my electric Maytag dryer, it buzzes but doesn't run.
I don't know the model # at this time, I'm at work. Pretty sure this is a general question.
What do I do?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
WARNING: High Voltage may bzzt you... careful.
Your dryer thinks that it is at the end of a dry cycle.
First thing to do is disconect the dryer from the 220v mains and let it sit for about 10 min.
then, spin the timer four or five times around and then stop it at a TIMED dry cycle, not an automatic cycle. (example: 60 minutes).
Plug unit back into the wall.
SLAM door on unit and press button again...
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
More than likely, you have lost the element in your dryer. Sorry to say, but they are not that cheap (WE11X103, Price Retail $89.00), but if you think your handy enough, they do make a restring kit ( WE11X203, which sells for around $40.00). The issue, if you do it yourself, is that you have to re-wire both strings in the element. You would have to be sure that the coils dont touch each other or any part of the element housing, or it will short out. If you feel your up for it, here are the directions for getting into the unit. UNPLUG THE UNIT first off. Open the door, and look at the top of the door housing area for screws that may be securing the top of the unit. If there are screws, remove them, if no screws, put a putty knife between the top and cabinet, approx 1-2 inches from the side and pop the clips holding down the top. Lift and slighty pull top towards you and unhook the top. Spin the unit around, and remove the four screws securing the back access panel and remove the panel. Remove the belt from the idler pully, remembering the way it went for reinstallation. Go back to the front panel, and remove the two screws holding the front panel onto the cabinet. These should be just inside the cabinet around 2" down in the top front corner. Tilt the front panel towards you and lift off the bottom securing brackets. Make sure the loose belt is loose, then remove the drum by firmly pulling forward and lifting slightly. You may have to SLIGHTLY bend the cabinet to allow it to slide forward. You now have access to the element. Look at the two strings for breakage. You may have to gently push on them to find the break. Sometimes (especially with GE's) that one string has completly blew up, if this is the case, be sure to clean out all remaining peices of broke element. If you dont find a broken string, stop, and write me back, we'll check out the other issues it might be without tearing it down again, or wasting unneeded money. Get back to me (email@example.com) with anything else (problems, no string breakage, helping you find parts, etc) that you may need. Thanks and talk to you soon. JIM
Posted on Nov 06, 2007
Most electric dryers run on 110 volts, but heat on 220 volts. Unit needs to be wired to 208 to 240 volt, 30 amp circuit to Run and HEAT properly. Motor, interior light and controls run on 110 volts, neutral (white wire) and one hot wire, usually black. The heater works on both 110 volt hot wires, usually one red and one black wire. Unit can be hooked up to run and heat on 110 volts but will allways take two or three times as long as a 220 volt setup. It is producing half or a little less of its 5600 watt rating. It takes three things to efficiently dry clothes: heat, air flow and tumbling action. Remove any one and the unit runs much less efficiently. If you need a dryer to run on 120 volts, buy one that says 110 - 120 volt operation only, but it will still take up to two hours or so to dry a load. Brent
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
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