I've performed a leakage test by shorting the two prongs of the wall plug then measuring between the plug and metal parts on the TV. All but two of the metal parts (heat sinks, screws, plates...) read >1M ohm. The heat sink on two switching mode rectifiers measure about 20 M ohms. After I plug it in, most of the metal parts measure around 1-10 mV from ground (I don't recall if it was hot or cold ground). The two rectifier heat sinks measure around 26 mV. Would this indicate there is a problem with the rectifiers and should be replaced? Currently, my Mitsubishi doesn't want to power up. I changed the DM cap's which got rid of the 'blinking green light' problem. However, it still doesn't power up. The error code (12) indicates the TV is operating normally. I removed the front panel power switch board and the on switch measures open/close/open when I depress it. I also checked all the fuses indicated on the inside of the chassis (about 10 of them). I measured the standby voltages from the test points and cold ground (6, 12, 28 and 32). If I remember correctly, I think they were all zero except the 6 volt was 7 volts - I will have to verify this. Tonight I will check the output of the bridge and switching rectifiers. However, I'm not real clear on what voltage they should be. I'm just learning about all this stuff - kind of fun - especially if I get it working!
Comments:
Jan 08, 2008
- TV WORKS NOW! I disconnected the front panel cable connector that goes to the power switch. The TV powered up fine using the remote. I need to recheck the power switch. It would appear it is stuck or something. Others have posted this problem keeps the TV from powering up by the front panel button or remote.
I picked this TV up for free on Craigs List a few days ago. Repair costs will be about $40 and I have a 73" TV that went for $7000 a few years ago. I couldn't have done it without all the great information from these tech support sites. You guys are great! Most important, this monster of a TV didn't end up in the landfill. How rewarding.
Jan 08, 2008
- TV WORKS NOW! I disconnected the front panel cable connector that goes to the power switch. The TV powered up fine using the remote. I need to recheck the power switch. It would appear it is stuck or something. Others have posted this problem keeps the TV from powering up by the front panel button or remote.
I picked this TV up for free on Craigs List a few days ago. Repair costs will be about $40 and I have a 73" TV that went for $7000 a few years ago. I couldn't have done it without all the great information from these tech support sites. You guys are great! Most important, this monster of a TV didn't end up in the landfill. How rewarding.
-   Tv won't power up with the remote or the front panel buttons. Pulled power for 12 hrs thinking TV would reset but nothing. What's next. -   Guest
i have a 50 in Pioneer and it shuts down by itself every 15 min and we have to switch outlets to get...
(More)
i have a 50 in Pioneer and it shuts down by itself every 15 min and we have to switch outlets to get it to come back on everytime.
Recently switched from a trouble free HD-digital satellite to Verizon's HD FIOS bundle. My WS 73711...
(More)
Recently switched from a trouble free HD-digital satellite to Verizon's HD FIOS bundle. My WS 73711 is hooked up to one of their HD multi-room DVR tuners and for the last several months we've had nothing but problems. After dozens of trouble shooting sessions over the phone they finally agreed to send some one out. Low and behold the original installer had daisy chained five splitters in order to feed all five tuners in our house and the compounding signal degradation had proved to be the culprit. During the last week before the tech showed we suddenly noticed that the convergence was completely awry. The beams not only don't converge but they also sort of curve down and to the right as they separate. Went through the regular reconvergence menu attempting to re-aim the red and blue as well as trying the reset to factory defaults. I seem to be able to make it worse but not better. There are places on the screen where they seem to be properly focused but at the bottom right corner of the screen it's terrible. Couldn't access the advanced convergence menu 'cuz the remote recently died and I just ordered a replacement. Is this possibly a problem brought on by their **** intermittent signal and them constantly having to remotely reinitialize? The set has not been moved and nothing else has been connected during the period since FIOS was connected. They insist not. Any way, the new remote should arrive in a few days and I was going to try the advanced convergence grid realignment at different resolutions. The problem is definitely now in the TV as I have tried other signal source material and they all have the same display problem. Another thing that may or may not be relevant is that the test alignment cross hair in the convergence menu does not appear as even as it does in the manual the vertical leg is quite short above the horizontal line.
Have mitsubishi model WS 72711. Tried to turn would not go on. Turned it on at the set, then the...
(More)
Have mitsubishi model WS 72711. Tried to turn would not go on. Turned it on at the set, then the antenna menu came up and the highlighter thing just kept going from antenna to antenna--zipping around in a circle. Then after fiddling with buttons it worked. How long is this TV supposed to last in years?
Add the things you own to your My Products collection and get product information, solutions to problems, manuals & guides, tips and how-to's, reviews & ratings and local repair service - all in one easy place.