My washing machine filled with water and then stopped dead. It will not run. I have tried opening and closing lid, resetting dial, even unplugging and plugging back in. Nothing. Please advise.

The low humming sound is indicative that the start / run capacitor has failed. It give the motor an electrical jolt to get it going. Call for service and tell them the story.

Hi Peter, If I understand your question correctly, you are asking what the code "HD" means for your machine. I am unable to find the code "HD", however, here is a list of the codes for these Maytag models, perhaps one looks similar to "HD". Hopefully this answers your question!

Washer displaying code messages
- "LF" (Washer is taking too long to fill)
Check the following:
Are the water inlet hoses kinked or clogged?
Are the water inlet valve screens clear?
Press PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display.
- "Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain water from the wash tub)
Check the following:
Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?
Is the drain hose installed properly? See "Connect the Drain Hose." Press PAUSE/CANCEL
to clear display.
- "uL" (Unbalanced Load)
If the load is unbalanced, the washer will display this code while running an imbalanced
load correction routine at the end of the wash cycle and before the final spin. If the code
remains and the wash cycle dial is flashing after the recovery routine has stopped, open
lid and redistribute the load. Close lid and press START.
- "oL" (Over Load)
Is the washer overloaded? The washer has attempted to fill and begin the wash cycle. If
the washer is overloaded, it will drain any water and detergent that was added during the
fill. To correct the overload, remove several items and add detergent. Close lid and press
START.
- "Sd" (Suds Detected)
Did you use regular detergent?
Regular or hand-washing detergents are not recommended for this washer. Use only High
Efficiency ("HE") detergent.
Did you add too much detergent?
Always measure detergent. Follow detergent manufacturer's directions.
If excessive suds are detected, the washer will display this code while running a suds
reduction correction routine at the end of the wash cycle. The suds reduction routine
removes extra suds and assures proper rinsing of your garments. If the code remains and
the wash cycle dial is flashing after the recovery routine has stopped, re-select your
desired cycle using cold water. Press START. Do not add detergent.
- "lid" (Lid Opened)
Is the lid open? Close the lid to clear the display. If the lid remains open for more than 10
minutes, water in the wash tub will drain.
- "HC" (Cold and Hot hoses switched)
This code will appear at the end of the wash cycle to indicate that the cold and hot water
inlet hoses are switched. See "Connect the Inlet Hoses."
- "dL" (Door/Lid cannot lock)
Indicates lid is not locked. Check for items caught in the lid keeping it from closing. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL once to clear the code.
- "dU" (Door/Lid cannot unlock)
Is there excessive weight on the lid, such as a basket of laundry? Excessive weight will
keep the lid from unlocking. Press PAUSE/CANCEL once to clear the code.
- "F##" code
Press PAUSE/CANCEL once to clear code. Press START. If code appears again, call for
service.

Most likely the pump is plugged with lint, pillow stuffing, a small object, or some other obstruction which is not allowing the motor to turn.

Please be carful as running the agitator without enough water will overheat and kick out the motor, however it should be ok when it resets itself.
Yes, the machine should stop agitating when you lift the lid so this too is part of the problem.
After looking at the print I can only suggest that the cam contacts in the timer ( contacts 12 and 14) that start the motor are burned and stuck together.
Quentin

Sounds like you have a bad lid switch, or the plastic plunger on the lid that engages the lid switch is broke. if the plunger is broke, it is cheap, and only 2 screws to remove and put new one on. if that is not broke, check the lid switch. This model is a lid switch, and lid lock in one. You can test it before replacing it if you have a meter. you need to hinge the lid up to check and replace the lid switch. use a putty knife, on each side between the top and top of the front panel. slide the putty knife in one side, it will hit a bracket if your in the right spot. press in, and lift on that side of the top. do the same on other side, just don't let go of the first side or it will latch again. then swing the top back, the back side is on hinges. the lid switch is on the right side attached to the top. unplug washer, remove the 2 wires on the switch and check continuity. there should be continuity, or "open" when the lid is closed, and no continuity, or "closed" when you open the lid. if it is "closed" even when lid is closed, replace the lid switch. let me know if you have any further questions, shane.

This is usually too much detergent or severely out of balance load. Unplug the washer, this will allow you to open the door to re-balance or eliminate very heavy items from the drum. Close door re-plug and restart machine. If this doesn't do the trick repeat the unplug and reset the dial to rinse/spin to clear excess detergent once finished restart normal wash cycle.

Your water fill (mixer) valve is failed in the open position.
CLICK HERE for the part.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

a small run of these actually had an out of balance switch and fuse assembly that cut power to the machine if it went way out of balance ,check and see if yours has one and replace the fuse at first but you may have to replace the entire assembly

check the lid switch first, can you hear any "clicking" just before the lid is closed, try opening and closing a few times listening closely for he click, if not sounds like a bad lid switch(not recognizing the lid is closed and for safety reasons will not advance further.(far more common issue hen the timer)