Kenmore 80 series keeps shutting off. new motor and lint line cle
I have a Kenmore 80 series electrical dryer. It is about 12 years old. Our motor was locked up so we replace it. We have cleaned out our lint lines. But, our dryer still shuts off in the middle of a cycle. We can turn it right back on. There isn't any motor grinding. It just starts right up with out a problem. It will shut off 1-2 times during a cycle.
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Re: Kenmore 80 series keeps shutting off. new motor and...
Take off the vent line from the back of the dryer,if it runs fine your vent line is blocked or the outside vent where the flapper opens might have a cage on it to keep animals out of the line,it keeps the animals out but it's a lint trap.if you have a long run use a leaf blower and blow out the vent line,if that's ok check the t-stats on the heater box,
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You don't want to bypass the thermal-cutoff. If the thermostat is malfunctioning, it WILL overheat and cause a fire!! For the age of it, I would replace the whole dryer! It's going to cost you more in time than the value of the unit.
remove the entire exhaust vent and clean it thoroughly. Any build up of lint inside of it will cause the moister sensor in the dryer to shut down the burner or grid which ever you have, gas or electric After cleaning it and it still does not work correctly the sensor is at fault and needs to be replaced
how old is the dryer?sounds like the motor is bad,you could read out the thermostats but usually when they go the dryer will still run.alot of times i go in and the motor is covered with lint,it's like a blanket on top of the motor overheating it,people don't know that the dryer should be cleaned out,you need to blow out the vent line,clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into and vac out the inside of the dryer,i do it once a year and my dryer is 17 years old.next time send model number,i can look up your dryer and tell you how much a motor is and give you the part number,it's not that hard to change out the motor
This is a potentially deadly scenario. If the clothes are warm but just not getting dry, there is a problem with air flow - specifically - the lack thereof. The chance of fire is a real concern.
Make sure the lint baffle / trap is clear. This should be checked / cleared after each drying cycle. Most folks know about this, but I included it just in case this is your first dryer.
If the the baffle / trap looks clear, the exhaust tubing of the dryer is suspect. Many installations consist of the flexible / expandable hose. This hose may have become crushed during the running of the dryer, reducing air flow. Locate the hose and pull the dryer away from the wall to inspect, expand or replace the hose as needed. If an old installation, it is very possible that the hose has become clogged with lint build up over the years. The hose should be replaced in this case.
If at all possible, use aluminum expandable dryer duct. It is less likely to collect lint as quickly as the flex plastic style.
If the clothes are not warm or hot, the heat source (electric heating element or gas flame - depending on type) has a problem. Either of these problems should probably be referred to a pro for proper repair.
that's normal,obviously you haven't cleaned out your dryer and vent line,nobody ever tells the customer when you buy your dryer that it should be cleaned out at least once a year so you don't have a fire more so if it's a gas dryer with an open flame inside the dryer,you gotta vac out the inside where the motor is,clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into and blow out the vent line,i use a leaf blower to clean out the vent line,take it off the back of the dryer,stick the leaf blower in the line if it's a long run if it runs through the wall and to the outside flapper and blow all the **** out of it,also if you have a shop vac put it on blow and blow off the motor,you won't believe how much lint comes off the motor even though it looks clean,so vac out the inside of dryer,clean out the lint filter duct and blow out the vent line
Vacuum all of the air passages including the hose to the outside vent. Remove the lint filter and wash it in hot water and detergent; rinse and replace after drying. Restricted air flow may be tripping an over-temp switch.
If this is a new element, this is normal until it has been used a few cycles. Use it and watch it carefully for a while. If it continues have a competent person to take the rear panel off and check for burnt wires or lint inside the unit.
Easy fix. I had the same problem on mine. You need access to the back. Remove back cover. Look at bottom left, you will see two blue wires going to a white plastic item next to one of the thermal sensors. This white plastic piece is a fuse, or fusible link if you like. I'm not sure what the rating is, but you can take the old one to a parts store. They can match it. Now, why did it blow? Well, if the dryer is old, it could be just worn out. But more than likely, one of your 230 volt lines has degraded due to a bad connection, thus drawing more amps, thus blowing the fuse. Look at where the power cord comes in at. Is there any discoloration or oxidation at the terminals? If so, replace the power cord at this time, and try to clean up the terminals as best you can. Also, at this time, you probably better take a look at the lint collector duct running along the left side down the back. It's probably so clogged with lint that your dryer does't dry as fast anymore, and air flow from the exhaust is restricted. Take the duct off and clean it out, or blow it out with compressed air. You should be up and running now. Have fun...
Very common problem. You need to call a duct cleaning company and tell them to clean your dryer vent. Rule-of-thumb: dryer vents should be cleaned every couple of years to prevent them from being clogged with lint and causing lint fires. This is definitely your problem. Good luck :)
p.s. one way to verify a clogged vent is to go outside where the vent exits the house and feel the air-flow. should have adequate air-flow.