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Replace bottom heat element in GE electric stove still not working on bake only broil.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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ranger25
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: GE Oven bake element not work

It sounds like a problem with the selector switch. You have to remove the back panel to get to the back of the switch in the head unit, and find what wire goes from there to the bake element. With a meter set on 240ACV, or whichever setting is on yours that's HIGHER than that i.e. 400ACV, with the red probe on the terminal and the black one going to ground, see if you are getting 210-240 through it. If so, then it's either a faulty neutral wire connection (the other wire coming out of the element) or the selector switch. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 29, 2008

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SOURCE: my ge spectra stove bake element is not heating

I have a GE Spectra stove. The top element over heated and broke in half.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Understand that I am not a professional, so this answer is subject to revision by someone who is more knowledgeable.

Where I live now I'm on Natural Gas, but in the past I've had electric stove/ovens. Based on my best recall the situation you describe is NOT abnormal.

When in the Broil mode, the Bake element is NOT on, but the Broil element is on FULL-bore to provide that strong radiant heat required for the Broiling process, AND for the good browning /crusting of the product being Broiled!!!!!

On the other hand, when Baking, not broiling, IF the Broiling element were on high it would provide too much radiant heat to the top of the product being Baked, and would burn the top.

While Baking, by energizing the Broil element in a lower power setting, the Baking process is enhanced with more heat by the assistance of the Broiler element, BUT without the hazard of burning on the top!!!!!

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