Question about KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

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I have a Kitch Aid range model KESC307HBS4. The infinite switch for the LF burner went bad. The K-A part number is 9751758. The factory replacement part is a Whirlpool 8203536. What I need is to know is which wires to connect to the correct connection.

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SOURCE: need wiring solution for replacement part

NORMALLY, THERE ARE 5 WIRES TO A STANDARD SWITCH. L1 AND L2 ARE THE POWER GOING TO THE SWITCH, NORMALLY RED AND BLACK. LOOK AT ANOTHER SWITCH ON THE RANGE TO DETERMINE WHICH IS WHICH.
THE H1 AND H2 ARE THE OUTPUTS ( ARE B1 AND B2 ON SOME SWITCHES). THESE ARE THE OUPUTS TO THE ELEMENT. THEY ARE INTERCHANGEABLE. THE "P" ON THE SWITCH IS THE PILOT AND GOES TO THE INDICATOR LAMP THAT TELLS WHEN THE SWITCH IS ON.

Posted on Mar 31, 2008

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SOURCE: need wiring solution for replacement part

Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....



Posted on Apr 05, 2009

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hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .

Mar 15, 2008 | KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Need wiring solution for replacement part


Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....



Mar 15, 2008 | KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

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