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Termostat call for heat and it will not come on untill I hit the front of the unit

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You have aloose wire somewhere in the unit. That could be very difficult to find. Take the cover off and carefully start to wiggle wires till you find it.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

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Lg dryer dle7177 cutting off during cycle


I had a tumble dryer that stopped working and after much investigation it turned out to be an internal thermostatic switch and lots of fluff around the internal filters. ( Mine had 2 of them 1 would cut the heat and kick back in when the temperature dropped and the other one would completely cut all power rendering the drier non usable until cicuit breaker thermostat was replaced. The reason they cut out is to prevent overheating and possible fire. When the thermostat gets to certain temperature it breaks the circuit. Apparently you shouldn't stop the drier until it has completely cooled down as there will be too much heat which could cause a fire, which is why most drier cycles have 10 minutes of cool/ non heated air at the end. So in conclusion I would take all the filters out and give them a good clean and try to avoid opening the door while there is still a lot of heat in the drier. I'm not sure if this will help but its a starting point.

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I have a honeywel t8002c termostat w heat already connected. The ac unit needs to b reconnected. Two wires for the ac to b connected. Was connected before but moved the termostat thus winter and didnt...


You need to connect to the Y terminal and the C terminal for A/C unit. The best was is to connect thermostat to furnace and then connect the two wires to A/C off furnace circuit board at Y and C terminal.

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I have a heat pump and it freeze up


If you are referring to the outside unit freezing up, the issue is in the defrost cycle. The defrost cycle works something like this: The unit reverses the flow of freon causing the inside coil to blow cold air into the conditioned space and the outside coil is now working like an a/c unit, it gets warm to melt the frost/ice. The inside unit electric heat strips come on so you do not notice the cold air being blown in. The fan on the outside unit stops running to allow the coil to get good and warm.
Now the unit should go into the defrost cycle every 90 minutes or so. It should not terminate the cycle untill the coil is clear of frost. There is an "Klixon" type termostat that measures the temperature of the outside coil. This is most likely the problem. It is prematurely terminating the defrost cycle. I'd start there first.

Hope this helps, Let me know if I can be of any further help.

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REMOVE THE CASING FROM THE BOILER AND FOLLOW THE HOT PIPE UNTILL YOU SEE A DISC SHAPE OBJECT , TAKE NOTE OF CODE PART AND GO TO A PLUMMERS SUPPLIERS STORE AND ASK FOR SAME PART , WHEN YOU GET THE NEW TERMOSTAT GET AN AJUSTABLE SPANNER AND REMOVE FITTINGS FROM EACH END OF TERMOSTAT BUT FIRST MAKE SURE THE HEAT IS TURNED OFF , GOOD LUCK.

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The furnace is blowing warm air even if the thermostat low.


The only thing that tells the unit to come on and off is the thermostat so I would definatly say it is it. When you turn the system back on, does the a/c run normally? If it does, then it's the problem with the heating side of the tstat. Also, does the fan come on when you put it to on and then turn of when you switch it back to auto? If it does, then the system is working fine, its the t-stat. Let me know if you have any more problems.

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there is a fan relay in the unit. it is stuck and needs to be replaced

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