There is no fix to this problem. I emailed GBX, who makes the same stereo (same model number) and they said it is a factory setting that can't be overridden or changed. I bought mine for work and my office is made up of open cubicles - I'll be returning it tomorrow.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The "Built-in overload-protection circuitry" is just doing its job...protecting the speaker from damage. Lets look at your system 1st. Is your power amp or powered mixer underpowered which requires you to turn the volume controls up past 1:00? Big systems play loud at moderate setting where-as small systems must be max'd out to reach those same levels. Pol-mount your speakers for better coverage as your ears are not attached to your shoes.
The DSW ProSub is a nice amplified sub. The reason it is shutting down is the amp is being worked to hard and it's going into thermal mode and after you turn down the volume and it cools down it's coming back on. To much of this and you will have a nice sub and no amp to run it.
One thing to do is keep the sub/amp in a well ventilated are and put a fan on it if you can to help move the heat away from the unit.
The amp is rated at 250 watts so if you push it to hard it's gonna keep shutting down. So turn it down a little so it runs longer and smoother or add another sub to the set up if you need it louder (like we all like). One sub can only do so much.
Also make sure if the receiver your using has a base setting or an EQ that you keep them levels set a little lower. Most receivers and home theaters already have an amp in them and you don't want to run to much of that into another amp. It's over kill. Find that happy medium.
If you have any questions or comments please feel free to ask.
It might be easier to "skip" the subwoofer meausrement step in Audessy and tune it by ear instead. Refer to page 52 in the manual, step 6/7.
I use familiar music and test tones when I tune my sub to the mains. Generally, I set the preamp trim to -10db, the crossover as appropriate (80 or below), and then bring up the level knob on the sub to taste. Confirm phase alignment, if possible, by having someone flip the phase (if available) so the response is strongest at the main listening position.
Keep it a little "lean" at first, and over the next several hours or days, bring the preamp level up one db at a time. It takes several days of tweaking to arrive at a level that I find appropriate. Once there, I try to ignore programs with bloated bass - remember, not all recordings are created equal.
Should you fond yourself bringing the preamp level to 0 or above, kick the sub amp level knob up a couple of clicks, and back off the preamp level. It's safer to have the amp do the work, than driving too hot of a signal at the preamp level and clipping it.
It could be that the unit is bad, it could also be that the device providing the input is bad. I doubt the cables are bad, but that could be also. Could it be possible that your television has a menu setting that turns the outputs off and on?
Even without the sub, you still get sound through the Bar.
Only way to test it is, different cables, alternate device to provide input for sound.
Well to be hones 85 sounds pretty loud to me, generally the bose acoustimass module shouldnt really be distorting or crackling unless under extremely high sound levels.
It could possibley be that the speaker cone in the bass module has a slight perforation so it would distort at high levels. However other problems could be loose connections inside the unt or outside the unit. If your friend doesnt have it above 85 under normal circumstances I wouldnt worry to much about it but if there is a tear in the cone the problem could get worse.
On your signal source, make sure you have the sub set to on.
If you can adjust the output setting on your source, turn this up.
Adjust the volume setting on the sub lower to mach the volume of the main speakers.
You may need to make these adjustments a few times to get them working.
On the hum and noise problem
Check your power outlet for the sub, make sure the polarity is correct. I have found this to not always be right. Also what is on that same circuit. Things like the fridge can cause a lot of noise on the power line. Next check your connecting cables, are they of good quality? Are they running next to anything that may cause interference? Also check you connections to the signal source. Cable and dishes are known for ground problems.
I have the same speaker and it sounds like its behaving properly.
if you look on the back of the amp, you will find a switch that allows the speaker to automatically switch the speaker on or off based on the level of the audio coming from the tuner that it is attached to. If the switch is set to the auto mode, then it will listen for audio on the line and if the signal level coming into the subwoofer is high enough, the amplifier in the subwoofer will turn on and play. If the signal is not strong or loud enough, then the subwoofer will not turn on. There are two solutions to getting the speaker to work.
1. When you turn on the tuner or audio source that is feeding the Subwoofer speaker, you will need to turn it up loud enough to trigger the circuit in the subwoofer to switch on.
2. Alternatively, you can bypass the automatic circuit and set it to the "ON position all the time. In this position the subwoofer is always ready and waiting and should play any signal that is fed to it regardless of the loudness or volume of sound from the tuner. The switch is located on the back of the speaker cabinet just to the right of the red and black speaker wire connections. It is labeled "AUTO" and the switch positions are labeled ON and OFF.