Question about True GDM-9 Beverage Cooler

Ad

If you mean the breaker trips it probably is drawing locked rotor amps on compressor. Turn thermostat all the way to the left to turn it off. Restore power to unit. If fans inside stay on, that means the power on still on. Then turn thermostat to the rite to turn it back on. If the power fails again after turning thermostat back on the compressor is probably bad. :(

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

Ad

Hi,

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).

click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

let us guess

it is something that needs house power to work

you plugged it in and checked that there was power at the outlet

now what is the voltage required for the unit

guess it could be either 115v or 240v so it it was 115v and the house is 240 v then that explains why it will not start

now lets see --is there an on/off switch some where on what ever it is

Nope--- cannot guess what the problem is because you really have to give details like , make , model, year , type of equipment to get an answer

anyway if it is out of the box new and not working , just take it back for a warranty check, replacement or refund

it is something that needs house power to work

you plugged it in and checked that there was power at the outlet

now what is the voltage required for the unit

guess it could be either 115v or 240v so it it was 115v and the house is 240 v then that explains why it will not start

now lets see --is there an on/off switch some where on what ever it is

Nope--- cannot guess what the problem is because you really have to give details like , make , model, year , type of equipment to get an answer

anyway if it is out of the box new and not working , just take it back for a warranty check, replacement or refund

Aug 10, 2017 | Power Computers & Internet

Ez test to determine if stator wiring is ok. This test works on generators that have two sets of 115v plugs and 220v plug. Use a 12v, 1amp ac power supply ( smaller ac power supply should work ok ). With generator not running, apply 12v to one of the 115v outlet plugs. Now verify 12v output voltage with meter at another 115v outlet on generator. Also verify that there is about twice the voltage at the 220 v outlet plug (should be about 20v - 24v) . If the adjoining 115 v outlet plug has no output or very little voltage or if the 220 volt plug has no output, most likely stator is damaged or breaker is off. If the stator is shorted voltage reading will be very low and power supply will heat up. If stator is open, there will be no voltage at second 115v plug or 220 v plug. If voltage is ok at the other outlet plugs as per test above then most likely problem is with voltage regulator, or brushes not making contact or armature winding open or just needs to be energized. Unplug the 12v power supply after test to prevent it from overheating. Most generators have two 115v windings that together power the 220v plug. When you energize one of the windings with the 12v power supply, the second 115v winding will be energized also and give you a voltage reading about equal to 12v. You will not damage the generator with this small voltage being input thru the plug. Good luck

Oct 14, 2014 | Electrical Supplies

I'm going to take a guess and say you are dropping a 230v motor down to a 115v motor.

If the original motor on your equipment was 3 phase, then you need to change motors.

On the other hand, if the equipment had a 230v single phase and you are switching the motor wires so you can plug the equipment into an available 115v outlet, then I would suggest reconsidering. I would recommend running a 220v service line to your equipment instead. It will save on your electric bill and the motor will last longer. A 115v motor pulls twice as much amperage as the same motor running on 230v. (it may even be too much for the 115v outlet you are planing on using) Your variable rate electric meter will tell your power company to up the rate you pay per kilowatt-hour when you use power at a lower voltage but higher amperage rate.

That said, you need to make sure that the coil in your fancy starter switch is a 115v coil. (it probably is) When you hook up the 115v plug, you need to make sure that the black wire in the Starter Switch is the wire that the switch borrows power from to kick start the magnet that keeps the circuit closed. Beyond that , you probably don't have to do anything in the switch. If there's a red wire, you can just disconnect it and tape it off and do the same in the plug.

If the a10ago's function is a mystery, it will help to understand how it works:

Basically, the contactor has three switches side by side. Where the power comes into the box, there's what looks like a lot of extra screws. That's where the thermal protector is (circuit breaker) that will protect your motor at the proper level designed for the motor. The switch has a spring that holds it open so the motor won't run. But there's an electro magnet that can hold the circuit closed. That magnet is only energized when the switch is closed because even though one of its leads is connected to the hot side of the switch, the other lead is connected past the contactor which has no power when the switch is off.

Your 'START' push button momentarily energizes the coil (or maybe it just overpowers the spring and physically pushes the switch closed). The switch closes and the motor runs and keeps running because the coil is energized. Your 'STOP' button momentarily cuts current to the coil and the switch pops open.

The purpose of this contraption is:

1. It contains a circuit breaker suited for just the motor that is running, not for every load on the circuit.

2. It has contacts that will wear much longer than a standard switch.

3. If your shop loses power with the motor running and then the power comes back on later, your motor wont start running by itself. It will wait until you press the 'START' button.

If the original motor on your equipment was 3 phase, then you need to change motors.

On the other hand, if the equipment had a 230v single phase and you are switching the motor wires so you can plug the equipment into an available 115v outlet, then I would suggest reconsidering. I would recommend running a 220v service line to your equipment instead. It will save on your electric bill and the motor will last longer. A 115v motor pulls twice as much amperage as the same motor running on 230v. (it may even be too much for the 115v outlet you are planing on using) Your variable rate electric meter will tell your power company to up the rate you pay per kilowatt-hour when you use power at a lower voltage but higher amperage rate.

That said, you need to make sure that the coil in your fancy starter switch is a 115v coil. (it probably is) When you hook up the 115v plug, you need to make sure that the black wire in the Starter Switch is the wire that the switch borrows power from to kick start the magnet that keeps the circuit closed. Beyond that , you probably don't have to do anything in the switch. If there's a red wire, you can just disconnect it and tape it off and do the same in the plug.

If the a10ago's function is a mystery, it will help to understand how it works:

Basically, the contactor has three switches side by side. Where the power comes into the box, there's what looks like a lot of extra screws. That's where the thermal protector is (circuit breaker) that will protect your motor at the proper level designed for the motor. The switch has a spring that holds it open so the motor won't run. But there's an electro magnet that can hold the circuit closed. That magnet is only energized when the switch is closed because even though one of its leads is connected to the hot side of the switch, the other lead is connected past the contactor which has no power when the switch is off.

Your 'START' push button momentarily energizes the coil (or maybe it just overpowers the spring and physically pushes the switch closed). The switch closes and the motor runs and keeps running because the coil is energized. Your 'STOP' button momentarily cuts current to the coil and the switch pops open.

The purpose of this contraption is:

1. It contains a circuit breaker suited for just the motor that is running, not for every load on the circuit.

2. It has contacts that will wear much longer than a standard switch.

3. If your shop loses power with the motor running and then the power comes back on later, your motor wont start running by itself. It will wait until you press the 'START' button.

Oct 09, 2014 | Saws

You need a stepdown transformer from 240 volts to 110 volts AC.

Make sure you get one that has the required wattage you require.

Jaycar has a 1000W 240 - 115V Cat. No. MF-1086 for $360.00

**** Smith has a 1000W 240 - 115V Cat. No M1154 for $246.00

If you require a higher wattage, try an electrical wholesaler.

Make sure you get one that has the required wattage you require.

Jaycar has a 1000W 240 - 115V Cat. No. MF-1086 for $360.00

**** Smith has a 1000W 240 - 115V Cat. No M1154 for $246.00

If you require a higher wattage, try an electrical wholesaler.

Jan 14, 2012 | Video Game Consoles & Games

You will have more available power (and use a different larger breaker already on your generator) if you use the 220 plug instead of the 115v plugs. Have an electrician make you an breakout box separating the 220v plug into two 115v outlets. Or your can replace the push button breakers with better quality 25 amp. Problem is that the 115v receptacles are probably 15 amp. Other solution is to try a 220v pump instead of 115v (more efficient draws less amps). Good luck

Sep 02, 2011 | Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W...

Check the power supply first to make sure it hasn't gone bad. Note: I had a case where somebody changed the input voltage from 115V to 230V. It did not work on a 120 Volt outlet until I discovered the red slide switch on the back of the power supply was in the wrong position. Maybe somebody thought it was an on/off switch. It isn't often that people get off so easily, but it's worth a look.

(The voltage setting switch is next to the power cord socket, is generally recessed slightly so it's hard to mess with it. Usually it's colored red, but is sometimes black, and is always marked 115V in the correct position for U. S. operation. If it reads 230V that is the problem, unless you are outside North America and using 230 Volt power. In that situation setting it to 115V may cause major damage.)

(The voltage setting switch is next to the power cord socket, is generally recessed slightly so it's hard to mess with it. Usually it's colored red, but is sometimes black, and is always marked 115V in the correct position for U. S. operation. If it reads 230V that is the problem, unless you are outside North America and using 230 Volt power. In that situation setting it to 115V may cause major damage.)

Nov 04, 2010 | Computers & Internet

This is the power supply for your PC, depend on your local country power supply, some country like North US may use 110 V in their daily use electrical stuff and some country like Euro, UK use 240 V.

Your PC power supply is design to suit this 2 type of power input so can be sold everywhere. What u need to do is to make sure your local country power supply voltage and then just switch the input correctly, i think u have done it.

YBC (__/\__)

Your PC power supply is design to suit this 2 type of power input so can be sold everywhere. What u need to do is to make sure your local country power supply voltage and then just switch the input correctly, i think u have done it.

YBC (

Oct 20, 2009 | Computers & Internet

Look on the side of the clipper handle. You ahould see what appears to be a screw. With your clipper plugged in and turned on, turn that screw with a screw driver in either direction, the noise you are talking about should quiet down quite a bit,

Aug 21, 2009 | Oster Health & Beauty

Most generators have several circuits incorporated within the windings. There are usually two 115v windings, one or two windings that produce power and sensing voltage for the regulator that supplies power to the armature (produces magnetic force) and sometimes a 12v winding to supply power to charge the battery. The two 115v windings power one 115v plug each and together power the 220v plug. Each outlet has a breaker and or ground fault. Since the 115v plugs are working indicates that the 220v plug must have an open/broken wire or faulty breaker. Easy to check, however you must open cover to wiring compartment and trace wires. Should be easy fix. You do not have to start engine to find broken wire. Use ohm meter instead. With engine off, Insert probes into 115v plug and obtain ohm reading. Then insert probes into second 115v plug and obtain similar reading. Look for same reading at the 220v plug (remember 2 circuits of 115v, ground and neutral). Good luck with your repair and email if you have other question.

May 09, 2009 | Electrical Supplies

If you got the store bought APC 350 UPS, you most likely overloaded them, and killed them beyound repair.

People should never buy a 350VA. They are way to small for power supplies most of us now have. you need to start out to 1000VA plus you need to do the math to figure out how big of a UPS you actually need in the show room.

What am I talking about? What is the significant, or the math of what I am saying here. 115V x 1 amps = 115VA x .778 power factor = 89.47 watts Start up 50 watts = 39.47 watts

115V x 2 amps = 230VA x .778 power factor = 178.94 watts Start up 50 watts = 128.94 watts

115V x 3 amps = 345VA x .778 power factor = 268.41 watts Start up 50 watts = 218.41 watts

115V x 4 amps = 460VA x .778 power factor = 357.88 watts Start up 50 watts = 307.88 watts

115V x 5 amps = 575VA x .778 power factor = 447.35 watts Start up 50 watts = 397.35 watts

115V x 6 amps = 690VA x .778 power factor = 536.82 watts Start up 50 watts = 486.82 watts

115V x 7 amps = 805VA x .778 power factor = 626.29 watts Start up 50 watts = 576.29 watts

115V x 8 amps = 920VA x .778 power factor = 717.76 watts Start up 50 watts = 667.76 watts

115V x 9 amps = 1035VA x .778 power factor = 805.23 watts Start up 50 watts = 755.23 watts

115V x 10 amps = 1150VA x .778 power factor = 894.70 watts Start up 50 watts = 844.70 watts

115V x 11 amps = 1265VA x .778 power factor = 984.17 watts Start up 50 watts = 934.17 watts

115V x 12 amps = 1380VA x .778 power factor = 1073.63 watts Start up 50 watts = 1023.63 watts

115V x 13 amps = 1495VA x .778 power factor = 1163.11 watts Start up 50 watts = 1113.11 watts

115V x 14 amps = 1610VA x .778 power factor = 1252.58 watts Start up 50 watts = 1202.58 watts

115V x 15 amps = 1725VA x .778 power factor = 1342.05 watts Start up 50 watts = 1292.05 watts

115V x 16 amps = 1840VA x .778 power factor = 1431.52 watts Start up 50 watts = 1387.52 watts

115V x 17 amps = 1955VA x .778 power factor = 1520.99 watts Start up 50 watts = 1470.99 watts

115V x 18 amps = 2070VA x .778 power factor = 1610.46 watts Start up 50 watts = 1560.46 watts

115V x 19 amps = 2185VA x .778 power factor = 1699.93 watts Start up 50 watts = 1649.93 watts

115V x 20 amps = 2300VA x .778 power factor = 1789.40 watts Start up 50 watts = 1739.40 watts

People should never buy a 350VA. They are way to small for power supplies most of us now have. you need to start out to 1000VA plus you need to do the math to figure out how big of a UPS you actually need in the show room.

What am I talking about? What is the significant, or the math of what I am saying here. 115V x 1 amps = 115VA x .778 power factor = 89.47 watts Start up 50 watts = 39.47 watts

115V x 2 amps = 230VA x .778 power factor = 178.94 watts Start up 50 watts = 128.94 watts

115V x 3 amps = 345VA x .778 power factor = 268.41 watts Start up 50 watts = 218.41 watts

115V x 4 amps = 460VA x .778 power factor = 357.88 watts Start up 50 watts = 307.88 watts

115V x 5 amps = 575VA x .778 power factor = 447.35 watts Start up 50 watts = 397.35 watts

115V x 6 amps = 690VA x .778 power factor = 536.82 watts Start up 50 watts = 486.82 watts

115V x 7 amps = 805VA x .778 power factor = 626.29 watts Start up 50 watts = 576.29 watts

115V x 8 amps = 920VA x .778 power factor = 717.76 watts Start up 50 watts = 667.76 watts

115V x 9 amps = 1035VA x .778 power factor = 805.23 watts Start up 50 watts = 755.23 watts

115V x 10 amps = 1150VA x .778 power factor = 894.70 watts Start up 50 watts = 844.70 watts

115V x 11 amps = 1265VA x .778 power factor = 984.17 watts Start up 50 watts = 934.17 watts

115V x 12 amps = 1380VA x .778 power factor = 1073.63 watts Start up 50 watts = 1023.63 watts

115V x 13 amps = 1495VA x .778 power factor = 1163.11 watts Start up 50 watts = 1113.11 watts

115V x 14 amps = 1610VA x .778 power factor = 1252.58 watts Start up 50 watts = 1202.58 watts

115V x 15 amps = 1725VA x .778 power factor = 1342.05 watts Start up 50 watts = 1292.05 watts

115V x 16 amps = 1840VA x .778 power factor = 1431.52 watts Start up 50 watts = 1387.52 watts

115V x 17 amps = 1955VA x .778 power factor = 1520.99 watts Start up 50 watts = 1470.99 watts

115V x 18 amps = 2070VA x .778 power factor = 1610.46 watts Start up 50 watts = 1560.46 watts

115V x 19 amps = 2185VA x .778 power factor = 1699.93 watts Start up 50 watts = 1649.93 watts

115V x 20 amps = 2300VA x .778 power factor = 1789.40 watts Start up 50 watts = 1739.40 watts

Sep 16, 2008 | APC Back-UPS ES 350 - UPS ( external ) -...

Dec 18, 2013 | True GDM-9 Beverage Cooler

99 people viewed this question

Usually answered in minutes!

ALso how many voltages use this true brand coolers

115v or 220vsome one help me to fix thad problem?×