I think you mean its not freezing at the top? if this is so, sounds like you have a gas leak, you cannot fix this yourself unfortunately you may require a technician to fix the leak and top up your gas.. make sure they fix the leak or this will happen again. hope i have helped
SOURCE: Amana French Door Refrigerator "on" but no cooling; freezer still works
There are 2 possible problems. One is the defrost cycle is not working properly this is usually indicated by a large amount of frost on the back freezer panel. If so, the circuit will have to be repaired and the evaperator thawed to remove the ice build up. The other is the fresh food damper is not working properly this is behind the "lump" in the back of the fridge compartment above the top shelf, remove the louver panel to see if it is open or closed. closed will be warm open should be cold. The water dispenser reservoir is probably frozen due to poor air circulation.
SOURCE: Amana bottom freezer/ refrigerator
Geezer, sounds like a defrost issue. I usually find the bi-metal to be the culprit on this model. Check out the pic. You will have to remove the back panel in the freezer and defrost the evaporator. Remove the ice maker if there is one. The back cover has 4 quarter inch screws. remove those. The air vent has 2 plastic clips one each side and one on the bottom, push in and pull the grill off. The thermistor cover has a slot for a flat blade screw driver,push in and pull the cover off. The thermistor will now slide behind the back panel. Check the bi-metal for buldging. As long as the evaporator fan is working, it's probably a defrost problem.
SOURCE: Amana BX22A2W - freezer works, fridge not cooling
Check the damper in the top back of the fresh food section. make sure that it is open and air is coming through it.
SOURCE: Amana 18 Top freezer Refrigerator-leaking water in refrigerator
the middle insulation hasbecome water logged, forma faulty defrost tube, so, every time trhe unit defrost, 2 maybe 3 times a day it will spill water inti the vents, andin to the refrig, the only correct way to fix is to have the enitre center drain block replaced, part not that expensive but labor to install may be, ohter then nussincence, not really affecting machines workings
SOURCE: bottom freezer section iced up solid.-- Fan inside
DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.
The problem has to be in the damper control inside the refrigerator section.
Disconnect the refrigerator from power and remove the food from the top shelf. The damper control is in the box near the top of the refrigerator section behind the temperature control knob.
Remove the knob and cover until you can access the damper control. You can prop the damper control open with a pencil or something to make the refrigerator work until you get a part if you need to. Here is the part you need.
not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling191 views
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