Question about Engel Freezer 22 Qt. Fridge/Freezer

1 Answer

ARISTON FRIDGE FREEZER MBA 3842C PROBLEM

The above fridge freezer was switched off at the mains recently for a couple of days, but not moved. When power was switched on the compressor pump starts up OK and the compressor begins to warm up but neither the freezer or the fridge get cold and eventually an alarm matures indicating the freezer temperature is high.
Is there a start up routine for this model or should the appliance work OK when the power is restored?

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  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    The appliance is only 3 months old. It started to be noisey this morning and leaking water from the freezer which does not appear to be working.

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  • 63 Answers

It should work the same as before. Does the compressor get really hot after running a while? If so it could be low on charge, or there could be a restriction inside the refrigeration system. Either way a professional would have to look at it.

Posted on Jan 28, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Is my defrost timer broken or my thermostat? The freezer was holding -30 temp but now is at +30.


Is the compressor running? If not - the timer could be stuck in defrost mode. If it is ruinning, then the freezer coil should be cold. If it is choked with frost & ice - then the defrost heater isn't getting powered (bad timer or defrost terminator - or is getting powered but has burned out.

You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

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Good day. My Samsung fridge/freezer SR-S22FTFB runs normal for the first few hours when been switched on, both fridge and freezer temperatures were set for (- 18 and 2), both fans are running and when


Hello Danie;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

The normal setting for a freezer is -2 to +2 degrees F., and the normal setting for the fresh food section is +35 to +40 degrees F.

You only have one source of cooling and that is your freezer. With the settings that you have, you are asking your unit to do what it is not designed to do.

The ice maker is struggling because if it is a cast steel ice cube mold, the heater beneath it is not designed for the current to break the ice cubes free @ -18 degrees F., or if you have a plastic flex ice cube mold it is too ridged to flex enough to break the ice cubes free. Normally your ice maker should dump 8-10 times in a 24 hour period.

A note on food storage. Make sure you do not overload your freezer of fresh food section to the point where food product extends beyond the edge of the shelves.

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Hotpoint FZ175G red warning light comes on freezer still freezing after reset light comes on again after a couple of hours


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

Sep 17, 2013 | Freezers

1 Answer

Fridgidaire freezer warming up


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

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Samsung refrigerator not cooling


Sounds more like compressor failing to pump than board fault

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I have a Artic Air White Reach In Freezer. It is not blowing cold air from he top where the cold air comes in. Freezer was at 60 degrees F. I turned the defrost switch to make sure it wasn't in...


Is the freezer itself getting cold.To blow cold air.the freezer should get cold/friezed.the cold air blows from freezer to fridge side.first the freezer side gets cold, then when the freezer side gets enough cool to its set cooling temperature, at that time the defrost cycle starts.In defrost cycle the fan in the freezer starts running and the cool air from freezer starts going to fridge side.There is a ventilation passage between fridge and freezer from where this cool air passes.---------------- If in your case, the freezer is getting proper cold, but its not blowing cold air from freezer to fridge, then possibility is that, there is a blockage in ventilations.But if ventilation its clear, then its defrost problem.First try manual defrost reset procedure. The procedure is as follows: ---- First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. Then its defrost board problem. ------------------------- BUT if in your case, the freezer section itself is not getting cold, then the problem is compressor related.The compressor is the part which cools the freezer frost.In the compressor, there is a refrigerant to cool the freezer.If the compressor gets weak or the refrigerant gets low, then it will not cool the freezer, if the freezer is not cool then it will blow warm air from freezer to fridge, in defrost cycle.In that case, the compressor is faulty and its the cause of problem.------------ So you will have to first check , that is your freezer getting cold or not.as per that you can start the troubleshooting.------------------

You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

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1 Answer

Not freezing


Either the defrost circuit has failed or the refrigerant is low - my money is on the defrost circuit.

Most defrost circuits have three main parts:

1) defrost electric heating coil
2) defrost terminator
3) defrost timer.

The heating coil and terminator are in the freezer compartment - behind a protective panel. The heater is usually piggy-backed on the freezer coil and the terminator is in contact with the freezer coil to detect its temperature. The defrost timer is a simple assembly of a clock motor with switch contacts that can be located anywhere the manufacturer desires. The timer turns on or enables the defrost circuit every 8 or so hours for up to 30 minutes give or take.

When the timer has enabled the defrost cycle, the cooling mode ceases; the compressor shuts off and power is sent through the terminator to the heater. The heater warms and melts any ice build up on the freezer coil. The water drips to a pan and flows down the tube to a pan under the fridge - where it is evaporated off. The heater warms the freezer coil until either a) the timer returns to cooling mode or b) the terminator senses a preset rising temperature on the freezer coil. Once either condition is present, power is interupted and heating stops. The compressor is energized through the adjustable thermostat in your fridge. Since it is warm, the compressor turns on and cooling begins.

If any of the components listed above (1,2 or 3) have failed, the defrost cycle never warms the freezer coil and the ice never melts to clear the freezer coil as intended. Air can not be circulated through the freezer coil since it is choked with ice, so even though the compressor runs, the fridge and freezer spaces never get colder. The adjustable thermostat never sees the temperature you've set so the compressor never shuts off.

Water dripping in the fridge is melting ice from the freezer space - as the freezer is not getting colder - only the protected space around the freezer coil is.

To fix this, you'll have to get the service manual or schematics for the fridge to determine where the parts are located and do some troubleshooting with a multimeter after disassembling the freezer compartment and wherever else to access the timer if needed. This is not a good first appliance repair job for a DIYer due to the danger of refrigerant and testing live electrical parts in closed in spaces.

I hope this helps.

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I suspect you may have a faulty compressor! Do you notice if the compressor starts?

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Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.
  • possible causes:
  1. bad defrost timer
  2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
  3. bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items. If it still has a problem then it might be the compressor and you should probably replace the machine.

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I think you'll find the relay is there to start the pump by switching the mains to the shorter winding in the motor, hence three terminals. Once the pump is running the relay "drops out" and the motor runs on the longer winding. Check with a multimeter if the windings are intact. There's no Positive and Negative for AC operated devices i.e. it doesn't matter which way around the power (live and neutral or Hot and Cold) goes in but Earth or Ground MUST be correct. Dont kill yourself!!

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