Ice maker does not work.

Wake up one morning and Boom no ice left in the bin. What happened and What can I do to fix it without calling someone? Some ice makers will get a piece of ice in the wrong place and jam the extraction. Get a hair dryer and heat up the ice maker to release the fouled ice cube and that baby will start going. No water in ice mold?Do this easy test: pour some water in the ice maker mold and wait. If it kicks out a batch, but it has no water in it, most likely the water valve is bad. Since it is the cheapest part and you can do it yourself replace it. If it turns out you need a new ice maker then you have a new water valve already to go with it. What if the ice maker has ice in it but won't harvest any? One cheap and easy item for the do it yourselfer to replace is the ice mold thermostat. Check for voltage between T and H if you have 120 volts then the bi-metal (inside that ice mold thermostat) is bad. If it's good you will have 0 volts. Located in the plastic housing and seated against the ice mold is that thermostat. This looks intimidating but is easily fixed by anybody who could change a spark plug. There is no wiring. One more thing to look for: You can put a jumper between L and V and this will activate the watervalve. Have rags ready! If you are a cheapskate and want to be frugal and not buy a new ice maker or a new head(brain) you may want to remove the main gear and clean the copper plate behind it. That plate gets dirty and won't allow for a good contact with the water valve connection and does not power up the valve...Shhh! They will all be doing it! Modular crescent Icemaker test points: With NO power to the icemaker, and ice ejection fingers in the freeze position: Your ohm meter should read 8800 ohms between L and M, and 72 ohms between L and H. With power ON to the ice maker: If meter reads 0 volts between L and N you have no power to the ice maker. If the meter reads 120 volts then you have power to the ice maker. If you have 0 volts between L and H heater is off if you have 120 between L and H the heater should be ON. If you have 0 power between L and M the motor is off. If you have 120 between L and M then the motor should be ON. If you have 0 volts between T and H the thermostat is closed If the meter reads 120 between T and H then the thermostat is OPEN. If the voltage is 0 between N and V the water valve is closed. If the meter reads 120 water should be filling the mold. Confused yet? LOL