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Re: How to remove the cover
If this is a rackmount style... there are 2 or more torx style screws on the bottom side (I'm looking at a 3C16671A) which you will need to remove. If there is an expansion board which slides into a backside slot, then this board will likely need to be removed first too. Also on the backside may be a couple of plastic hooks which help to clip the top on.
Once all retention screws are removed the cover can be lifted backside up some first, then slide towards front some, then clear off. Don't force anything...
I think the cooling fan is the same size as often used on the old 486, Pentium, Pentium II, and some Pentium III heatsink assemblies.
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Suggest use a multi-compartment container, for the various screws you will remove. Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of. SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws. Advise DO NOT mix them up.
In the video;
A) Where the young gentleman states using a credit card, (1:16), and popping all the little clips off..........
Umm, not quite like that............. They don\'t come off. You are just removing the Back Cover FROM the mounted clips, on the metal frame.
The credit card depresses those metal clips. Releases the Tabs on the Back Cover.
Case parts from front to rear; Front Bezel / Back Cover / Rear Cover Duck and Cover (NO............you gonna\' believe that last one?)
Rear Cover: Looks to be 2 small Philips head screws to remove. 1 at each Top corner.
Bottom of Rear Cover has 2 U-shaped Latches. These SIT on Tabs. When screws are removed from Top, ease the top out towards you a little; then lift up, and out.
Hinged Stand: Looks to be 2 screws each, to remove from the Hinge\'s brackets. Could be wrong, may be 1 each, but of course YOU will know. You\'re looking at it, lol!
Back Cover: Remove 1 screw each from all four outside corners. (Philips) Using the credit card, slide around the area, in-between the Back Cover, and metal frame. Remove Back Cover.
Cooling System: Cooling Tube, Heatsink, Fan Assembly
In the video look at 2:47 (Or in-between shakes. Not bad mouthing) Here is a better view, just upside down,
Most likely the primary cooling fan connector has been left unplugged. Open the front door and look under the control panel just to the left of the filter. There will be a gray cover that will have to be removed. This covers the connector to the fan. Remove the cover and check to see if the fan is plugged in. If this is correct then unplug the fan connector and then go ahead a remove the two other screws on the duct on the far right side. Remove the duct and make sure the fan is plugged in to the duct connector. Never had any other problem further in the fan wiring than that.
-Drain cooling system. -Remove drive belts. -Remove bolts attaching fan shroud to radiator. -Remove fan blade from fan clutch and remove fan shroud. -Remove fan clutch and water pump pulley from water pump. -Remove four bolts and one nut attaching A/C compressor mounting bracket to cylinder head and water pump. Do not remove A/C compressor or power steering pump from A/C compressor mounting bracket. -Pull A/C compressor mounting bracket forward to remove from stud on water pump. -Remove bolt attaching generator adjusting arm to water pump. Remove four bolts attaching generator mounting bracket to cylinder head, cylinder block and water pump. -Remove remaining water pump attaching bolts and remove water pump from engine front cover.
-Remove water pump cover from water pump. Discard water pump housing gasket and water pump cover gasket.
-Remove any gasket material from water pump cylinder front cover and separator plate mating surfaces. -Position new water pump housing gasket and water pump cover gasket coated on both sides with Perfect Seal Sealing Compound B5A-19554-A or equivalent water-resistant sealer meeting Ford specification ESE-M4G115-A. -Position water pump and water pump cover onto engine front cover. Install bolts and tighten to16-24 Nm (12-18 ft. lbs.). -Install generator mounting bracket to cylinder head, cylinder block and water pump with four attaching bolts. Install generator adjusting arm to water pump with one attaching bolt. Tighten 7/16-inch bolts to 54-71 Nm (40-53 ft. lbs.) and 3/8-inch bolts to 41-54 Nm (30-40 ft. lbs.). -Position A/C compressor mounting bracket over water pump stud and secure to cylinder head with four bolts tightened to 54-71 Nm (40-53 ft. lbs.) and secure nut to water pump to 41-54 Nm (30-40 ft. lbs.). -Install water pump pulley and fan clutch to water pump hub with four bolts. Install fan blade to fan clutch with four bolts. Tighten water pump pulley, fan clutch hub bolts, and fan-to-fan clutch hub bolts to 16-24 Nm (12-18 ft. lbs.). Install fan shroud. -Install drive belts. -Fill and bleed the cooling system. -Start the engine and check for leaks
pull straight up on the cover. Remove the 4 screws that hold the fan to the heat sink. You can then remove the 2 torx screws and remove the heat sink if you need to. Clip the wires as close to the bad fan as possible so you will have enough for the new fan.
Open the freezer door, and see if you can hear the fan motor, that is located behind the rear panel.
If it's the source of the noise, then you will have to remove the rear panel to access the fan motor.
If not, go to the back bottom of the machine, remove the back cover and see if the cooling fan motor that cools the condenser and compressor s working properly.
If it's alright, then it will probably be a problem with the compressor itself.
STOP !! The compressor has one year left on it's warranty.
Call your selling dealer for warranty service. This is an expensive repair and altering the machine can void the factory warranty.
Remove the serpentine drive belt, as outlined in
of this repair guide.
Disconnect the A/C compressor upper support brace, then lay the compressor in the fan opening.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Detach the engine oil cooler lines at the flex connector.
Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the flywheel inspection cover.
Remove the starter motor retaining bolts, carefully lower the starter and remove the shims, if used.
Detach the starter motor wiring, then remove the starter from the vehicle.
Fig. Fig. 12: Starter motor removal and installation-1992 3.8L engine shown To install:
Attach the electrical connectors to the starter terminals.
Tighten the battery terminal nut to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm) for 1991
vehicles and to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm) for 1992 vehicles. Tighten the "S''
terminal nut to 27-35 inch lbs. (3-4 Nm).
Position the starter motor and shims, if used, to the engine and tighten the mounting bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
Install the flywheel inspection cover. Tighten the retaining bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Attach the engine oil cooler lines at the flex connector.
Carefully lower the vehicle and position the A/C compressor.
Install the A/C compressor upper support brace.
Install the serpentine drive belt, as outlined in
of this repair guide.
Install the right side cooling fan
Connect the negative battery cable.
Fore other engine and sub-models, review autozone.com (free register).
The fan has quit working or is blocked. The fan is usually located in the back of the freezer, under a cover. this is easily changed if you have access to parts and a few tools, you can probably replace it yourself. Unplug frig while removing fan and the cover, remove the fan attaching screws, unplug the wire, reverse sequence for installation. It is safe to leave the frig plugged in while you get replacement fan. Whirpool makes Kenmore so you may be able to get the fan at Sears parts center.
Hi, Afraid to ask, but is it that you need to know how to put batteries in? If so Turn the electronic lock clockwise ( to the right) from the 12 o'clock position to the 2 o'clock position which opens it so you can put in 4 fresh AA batteries replace the assembly by turning it to the left from the 2 o'clock back to the 12 o'clock. enter your combination and check for the green light. Good Luck!