Over worked fine yesterday, today there is NO action. Took out drawer, no igniter lights, no glow, nothing. No gas smell, no fuses blown, the lights and display are on but no burn at all. Can anyone help with this?
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Re: Lights are on but burner will not light!
It sounds like your fail safe has gone the only person who can take that job on is a gas cooker in staler if you have a second hand shop that sells appliances then they could help or even take on the job less then the gas repair man try them
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Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
Most gas ovens that aren't electronic ignition usually have a pilot light.
Usually one in the oven area and one for each burner. (Sometimes shared between two burners.)
These pilot lights must lit at all times...otherwise it won't light up and you'll smell gas.
Usually the pilot light is in the very back of the oven and can be seen with the broiler drawer opened.
There is a small set screw located at the pilot light assembly in the oven and also at every burner.
This allows you to adjust pilot light up or down, thereby letting you set pilot light flame to a level that doesn't get blown out by a draft...or you can turn it off completely.
If you use that set screw to turn off the pilot light gas, you'd need to strike a match to light the oven or burners everytime you needed them.
Most likely culprit is the igniter.
When you turn the oven on it opens a gas valve allowing a small amount of gas to flow thru the pilot light. The igniter then lights the pilot and when the sensor determines the pilot is lit it opens th emain gas valve and the oven lights. If the igniter fails and doesn't light the pilot the sensor doesn't heat up and it shuts down the pilot and nothing works.
The igniter is usually accessable under the oven by removing the drawer. It has a single wire attached and looks like a short cigarette made of ceramic witha metal tip.
You didn't provide model number so I can't give you part number but if you look it up here you may be able to get one from Sears http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?sid=PSHx20080114x00001
ignitor loose capacity... in order for gas valve to open ignition level have to be not less then 3 A. if it less then ignitor will glows but gas valve want open... So you should replace ignitor, but if you have tools (electric meeter) check if it's less then 3A, you can check one of the two wire on ignitor... appliancesrepairla.com
Sounds like a sticking gas valve or a defective hot surface igniter. Open the broiler drawer or remove the bottom cover in the oven compartment. The oven usually has a hot surface igniter or a spark igniter. Turn on the oven and watch for the hot surface igniter to start glowing. It should glow very bright. Once it is glowing the burner gas should come on. If you hear the gas come on it should light right away. If there is any delay shut off the oven and stay back. Let the gas clear out then inspect the area near the igniter and make sure the burner is not plugged(the little holes may have debris in them). If you turn on the oven and the igniter comes,glows brightly,no gas is heard but you can smell gas it is either a blocked burner orfice/assembly or sticking gas control valve. Try giving the burner and gas control valve a tap and see if it comes on. If you tap the control valve and it starts working then shut of the oven and try it several times. If it starts to come on and off now you may have cleared whatever debris was causing the problem. If it does it again then it could be the control valve or a weak hot surface igniter. The igniter can be tested with a ohm meter. Most of the time when I get this complaint it is the oven control valve that is sticking. Be very careful when doing these procedures....gas can build up in the oven compartment very quicky and flash if ignited. Always have the gas shut off valve at the back of the range within reach and the electrical outlet in case you need to unplug it.
Most likely a hot-surface ignitor has failed. If it doesn't consume enough current, the gas valve won't open. It's usually a fairly easy fix, once you gain access to the ignitor and have a new one to replace it with. Make sure you unplug the range...
My oven glowbar stopped working christmas morning. Yesterday we bought a whirlpool brand (igntr-oven #4342528) because it is twenty something dollars cheaper then GE. My husband installed it today. The only difference is you have to splice the wires (it comes with everthing you need) The first time he put it in it did not work because he had the wires backwards. He switched the wires and now its working fine.
My oven is two years old also.
It probably needs an oven igniter. Remove oven racks. Remove oven floor. Usually 2 screws towards back. Remove flame spreader if it has one. You can see long tube with holes in sides and igniter with 2 wires from rear. Now try oven. See if igniter glows. If it does but doesn't light within 1 minute, replace igniter. If it doesn't glow, you need to check for power to igniter. Should be about 100 volts. If not may need ERC, "Electronic Range Control".