The heater is not going on on auto i opened the unit yesterday and pushed the reset button. it started working again the igniter kicked on and it was blowing warm air again on auto but it stoped again this morning?
IF THIS IS AN OIL FIRED UNIT I WOULD CALL SOMEONE TO LOOK AT IT.THERE ARE NUMEROUS THINGS THAT COULD BE WRONG.IF THE UNIT STARTED BACK UP AGAIN AFTER PRESSING THE RESET BUTTON YOU COULD POSSIBLY BE LOSING IGNITION.THIS MEANS IF THATS THE PROBLEM YOU COULD BE SPRAYING FUEL OIL IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER.NEVER PRESS THE RESET BUTTON MORE THAN TWICE BECAUSE THE REPAIRMAN OR YOU COULD BE SERIOUSLY INJURED FROM AN EXPLOSION UPON RE-IGNITION.
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First make sure your gas is on. If that's not it make sure the pilot tube itself is cleaned out try tapping on the pilot head to remove any build up. The furnace on a call for heat will first start the combustion blower then start the ignition procedure, that first starts the spark igniter or glow plug then timed through the circuit board a short 3 second burst of gas after the 3 second burst if the flame sensor does not sense the flame a short purge cycle runs another 3 second burst of gas and then try's for ignition again. Knowing this the only thing it could be is a gas related problem either no gas or no gas making it to the pilot head or the gas valve itself is not opening so check the gas and the pilot tube if there fine then you're more than likely looking at a new gas valve. Sometimes tapping on the gas valve will free a stuck valve. Hope this helps and please remember to grade me.......thanks again
The front panel should be held in place by four screw at the corners or snap in place. Either remove screws or pull gently on top right corner to remove cover. You should see a red reset buttom type reset. Push it in to reset. Hope this helps. Thanks.
I have the same problem, and I found the manual reset inside the unit. Turn the power off, and unplug the unit. Remove the outer cover of the unit ( inside cover ) , and remove the 2 screws holding the " wire mesh " in the front of the cover. Pull the wire mesh up and out of the way, then carefully pull out the heating element. On the heating element, where the wires are connected, there is a manual reset button... Push the button in, till it resets...
My reset was on the upper left connection of the wires... just looks like a small push button, but the reset is recessed a bit. Replace all covers and plug back in.. working fine..
The unit was probably running when the power went out causing the high temperature reset to kick out. this is a manual reset, so you need to find it and push the little red button in the center back in till it clicks. The heater will then work again.
Sounds like your compressor might have been hit by lightning. If you have 220 volts going to the outdoor unit use a stick to push the contactor in. The fan and compressor should start, if not check the capacitor. If the capacitor is good, the compressor is probably bad.
Do you have an inducer on the unit (no access to the lennox model number tonight)? That is a motor that comes on shortly before your unit fires that blows the combustion gases up through the flu. Does this motor come on at all if you have one? If it does and the furnace will not light, then there is a device on the unit called a pressure switch. This switch has two wires to it and a small tube that leaves it and goes to the inducer housing. Remove the tube from the inducer and blow into and draw in air lightly or until you hear clicking noises. Replace the hose and try again. Sometimes the pressure switch gets stuck but can also go bad. If everything is coming on all the way up to ignition but the unit won't come on, then it's probably one of the limit switches that need to be reset. These are little disks about the size of a penny and have two wires going to it. In the middle is a small button that can be pushed to reset it. Some units have 2 to 3 and others have more. You have to use a flash light and look all in the unit around the burners and around the flu pipe looking for the limits. Once you have found them all and tried to reset the unit, then try to start it up again. Hope this helps.
The good news is this is a fairly common problem. Generally when a water heater pilot light goes out it is due to a faulty thermocouple. Replacing this is simple, takes just a few minutes and the part can be found at almost any hardware store.
Now for the not so good news. Kenmore and Whirlpool water heaters are both made by the same company and have severe problems with the gas control/thermostat unit. There is an internal sensor for the thermocouple inside and this goes bad. You can buy the unit and install it or have it installed by a plumber or Sears. Call the service number on the side of the water heater. If you change the unit yourself, there are instructions in the package the unit is in and instructions can be found online. Make sure you turn off the gas line running to the waterheater and release some water pressure from the water heater before you start. It is fairly easy to replace.
I had the same problem. The heater did not work in heating mode. However it was OK in air-conditioning mode. The operation light and the timer light blink twice and then the operation light blinks for 5 times followed by few seconds non blinking, then the cycle repeats again. I have read on the internet that you better unplug the power cord and then plug it again so that the heater re-sets itself. My only problem was that my heater is directly plugged to the power with no visible plug. So I went to the main distribution board and put off the power for about 20 seconds for the whole home. HOORAY!! The heater worked after that.
There is a small wiring harness that goes from the main board down to the sparker board at the very bottom of the heater. Disconnect this harness and reconnect making sure all pins and contacts make good connection. If it continues, replace the wire harness. Also make sure the outlet that the heater is plugged into is a grounded outlet. Stray voltage can interrupt the thinking of this unit. If all connections are good and the unit is grounded, you are probably looking at replacing the sparker board. I do have these parts and would be more than happy to send them to you for a donation.