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Problem for Maytag Atlantis MDE7400AY Electric Dryer

I have a maytag MDE7400 electric dryer. When I

By steveharris1 on Nov 10, 2009

" "

I have a maytag MDE7400 electric dryer. When I pull on the timer knob the dryer doesn't start. The IntelliDry sensor lights up in the ''damp'' area. The light inside the drum is working and the connection at the door seems to be the same as it was when it was working. I have removed the timer body, but cannot tell if this is my issue.

Comments:

Nov 10, 2009

- I located the two larger wires going to the timer. They are red and black. I have actually taken the timer off of the dryer, but can easily reconnect it. Is there an old fashion way to check and see if the dryer works as I don't have a meter? Can I use a jumper wire to connect the red and black without the timer or would this short out? Basically any way to test without a meter I can most likely make happen. Thanks for your help

Nov 10, 2009

- I have put the timer know back on and will check the thermal fuse. diagram shows that the dryer has two inline thermal fuses. They are both actually on the same run. The only way to access the inside of the dryer is to pull the front panel. I have done that and can now see below the drum. What will the thermal fuse look like? It is not located on the vent. It shows that it is close to the drive motor. I am assuming that is where the small belts are running off of a pulley. A little more advise and I should be able to test it. Thanks again for your help.

Nov 10, 2009

- I jumped both of the thermal fuse's and it still wouldn't work. So, unless there is something else to check then it must be the timer. Thanks for your help.

Nov 11, 2009

- I bought and installed the new timer and the dryer turns on fine. But, the timer doesn't advance at all. The dryer heats without any issues. I have made sure the knobs are secure so that isn't the issue. Any suggestions?

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Solution #1

posted on Nov 10, 2009

localwonder

Rank: Guru Maytag

Expert
Rating: 92%, 3251 votes

HI. The Timer may be the culprit in this case. I recommend testing the timer, to confirm the damage.

Take a close look at the timer motor control. Depending on your make and model, there may be a number of wires connected to it. Locate the wires that deliver power to the mechanism. These wires should be slightly larger in size than the other ones. Use your needle-nose pliers to remove one of the power leads. Pull the connector off the terminal by pulling on the connector, NOT the wire, or it may break the wire.

Lift the dryers control panel up and set your units timer to a normal dry cycle. If your multimeter came with alligator clip probe adapters, this will be handy here, so put them on if you have them. If not, any meter(ohm) will do.

Set the multimeter to read ohms (usually labeled R1 or RX1). Clip or touch one probe to the terminal from which you removed the wire. Touch the other probe to one of the other terminals. You should get a reading of zero. If you get a high reading, then the timer motor is bad and it's time to replace it.

Comments:

Nov 10, 2009

- Ok, i don't recommend jumping this device. This will cause a short, and inflict serious injury, as well. A meter is needed, to confirm the damage. From what you have posted in your original statement above, the timer is the likely culprit.

Again, Do not jump this device. Jumping is ok, when inspecting door and start switches, but not in this situation. The timer uses a motor to provide forward advancement of the internal timer dial. If the motor is faulty, as in your case, the timer will not advance, and the cogs will not provide the necessary contact needed to close the run/heating circuits.

Nov 10, 2009

- There is one way that you can confirm. You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. If the unit runs in this state, the fuse is the culprit. If it continues to not run, while the thermal is jumped, this will confirm timer failure.

This is a safer way to confirm.

Nov 10, 2009

- The thermal could be mounted on the lower housing, as well. Most common location is on the vent duct.

Nov 10, 2009

- Blower Housing**

Nov 10, 2009

- Make sure that the timer mechanism is completely re-connected, before you jump the thermal fuse.

Nov 10, 2009

- Ok, the thermal fuse is located, and mounted on the Heater chamber. The second device you speak of will be the Hi-Limit cut- off thermostat. Click on the below link to access an exploded diagram of the heater assembly. The First thermal fuse will be labeled #4. The heater chamber will be labeled #3. The cycling thermostat will be labeled #8. The second thermal fuse(Hi limit thermostat), will be labeled #11.

Jump both thermal fuses, one at a time.

CLICK HERE TO ACCESS THE DIAGRAM

Nov 10, 2009

- Click here to view a photo of the number four fuse.

Nov 10, 2009

- Click here to view a photo of the number eleven fuse(hi limit).

Nov 10, 2009

- Ok, the timer is the culprit. Once replaced, the unit will operate correctly.

Nov 11, 2009

- Ok, if this new timer isn't advancing, this will indicate that the new timer is defective(bad timer motor), or there are some faulty power wires leading to the timer mech. Check the wiring harness for any loose connections, and worn contacts. replace the wiring harness if it is worn. if all wiring is ok, and connected well, this will be a defective timer module.

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