UNIT IS 3 YRS OLD, NOT USED ALOT. IT WON'T START UP, I THINK I'VE CHECKED EVERYTHING: THE FUSE IS GOOD, THE UNIT HAS POWER ALL THE WAY THROUGH CIRCUIT BOARD, ALL CONTACTS LOOK GOOD, POWER IS SENT TO MOTOR WHEN POWER BUTTON IS HELD ON BUT IT WON'T STAY ON. THE MOTOR IS FREE BUT IT WON'T LIGHT UP OR RUN.
Check the capacitors. There are two to look for, one on the
motor, the other on the PC controller board.
STEP ONE: Unplug the unit and
support it on a table.
STEP TWO: remove the controller board from the exhaust
side of the unit by unscrewing the screws holding the cover to the unit. Unplug
the motor wire harness by pressing down on the white retaining clip. They go
only one way, but it doesn’t hurt to note which is which.
STEP THREE: Unbolt
the ground wire from the face plate and the whole board should come out.
Unscrew the four screws holding the PC board. Look for a little foam pad that will drop out. Remember where to replace it. Screws and capacitor may have blue locktite on them.
STEP FOUR: Find the capacitor. It’s the part that looks like a tootsie roll,
black with two wires coming out one side. It’s between the CPU chip and the big
red square block. If it looks bloated, burnt or melted, you found the problem.
Replace it with a 1000 microfarad (1000 uf/ 10 volt) ten volt capacitor with a
radial lead. About $5 for the part at most electronic parts stores. Careful
desoldering the old capacitor to avoid damaging the PC board. WATCH THE
POLARITY. There is a negative and positive side. The negative side has a
chevron (<) mark and is marked on the PC board. On mine the negative side
was nearest the black micro chip and the positive side was towards the red JEFU
MPE part. Use a little bolt-tite on the screws of the PC board and some on the capacitor on the PC board to limit vibration. Reinstall the board, plug it in and give it a whirl.
If no joy, STEP FIVE: Find the motor start capacitor. It is bolted near the motor, black about
1x 2 x 4 and has two red wires coming out of it. Take a battery operated
resistance meter on a setting of R x 100 or higher. Charge the capacitor by
connection one lead of the tester to one red wire and the other lead to the
second red wire. You may have to strip the wire to make contact. Next reverse the leads and you should see the needle jump. Do
it a third time incase the first try was discharging. If no needle jumping,
replace capacitor. Couldn’t find this locally. May have to by directly from JET
Tools. L
Recommend you hard crimp wire splices if cutting off the
motor capacitor. . You can check the windings on the motor too. Check for
continuity between the white-yellow-blue-black wires of the motor harness. Any
combination should work. If not, motor shot, time for some bigger bucks nrepair.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info. I had the same problem with an AFS-1000B. Replacing the capacitor on the controller board did the trick. The unit is working perfectly.
I had the same problem, replaced the capacitor and the unit works fine. Cost me $1.00 and literally took five minutes to complete. Sure beats $90.00 for a new circuit board. Couldn't be happier. Thank you for the help!
Replacement of the capacitor on PC board worked perfectly. $1.99 capacitor from Radio Shack, although I did use a 1000uF 35v capacitor since they didn't have any 10v in stock
I also found that capacitor to be bad. Jet had used a 2000 microfarad 10 volt capo actor instead of the 1000 mf that is printed on the board. That capacitor looked good but measured only 500 me on my capo actor checker. I replaced it with a part I got out of an old computer monitor. Works fine now.
I also found that capacitor to be bad. Jet had used a 2000 microfarad 10 volt capo actor instead of the 1000 mf that is printed on the board. That capacitor looked good but measured only 500 me on my capo actor checker. I replaced it with a part I got out of an old computer monitor. Works fine now.
THANKS! capacator looked ok but our neighbor said it was bulging on both ends. He didn't have that exact size, but as a computer geek, he had a lot of capacitors. He decided to use 2 and welded 2nd one on back. Works like a charm! Thanks for all the sharing, everyone!
I bought 1000 mfd 10volt caps from Amazon and replaced it on the PC board. This fixed my problems. Wow such a cheap fix.
I had the same problem of not starting. Pulled the control board and the capacitor was slightly bulging on both ends. Replaced it with a 2200uf 16v I had laying around and the fan is working good as new again. Thanks for the article!
×
6,668 views
Usually answered in minutes!
I do not use it very often. Today I tried to turn it on and it failed to do so. Last time I used it it worked fine. There is power to the outlet it is plugged into. The fuse doesn't seem to have tripped.
I have the same problem. Tried to turn it on. It's stone dead. Power to the outlet. No indication of power to the unit. Anyone know where I can obtain the schematics?
I have the same problem, Has anyone solved the problem?
Exactly the same as others have described. Unit worked fine one day then died the next. The motor sounds like it is trying to start with a deep hum. This lasts about 5 seconds and then the unit shuts off.
I had the same problem with the unit not powering up. In order to determine if the fan or control board was bad I wired the power cord to the fan. The motor worked fine so I determined the control board was bad. I took the advice from this article and I replaced the capacitor. Sure enough that fixed the problem. It saved me from having to spend $90 on a new control board. I ordered the capacitor online from digikey.com and it was very fast and very inexpensive.
×