Question about Brother XL-5130 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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Broken stitching Problem with my sewing machine: I have not owned it long and don't do much sewing, mostly mending. The stitching on the bottom side of fabric is all tangled (messy) and seems to be broke off in many spots. Next the top tread will break. I have tried to change the tension, thread, needle and oiled my machine. Still to no prevail. I can't see paying 50-100 dollars to have it brought in and fixed when it only cost 150-200 dollars for a new one. How often do I need to replace it with little use? I would like to be able to fix the problem myself. I can't afford a new one and don't have the receipt any longer. Besides it has been sitting for some time now. Thanks for any help. We have gone on-line and checked the trouble shooting suggestions. Lounature

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If the bottom stitching is bad that means something is wrong with the top thread. If the top stitch is bad that means the problem is with the bobbin. Wind the tension the whole way in and then back it off to number 3 and then rethread it. When you hold the thread coming out of you bobbin case it . The whole thing should fall into your hand slowly not real fast. There is a screw on the metal bobbin case to adjust the tension on that. That is if you have a pull out metal bobbin case.

Posted on Jan 06, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Brother ls 2020, 3 dials for tension, ALL I WANT TO DO IS MEND. what is the # just for mending? why are these machines so hard to work?


A manual may help:

User Guide Manuals LS 2020 Others Brother

There is only one tension dial, the round knob above the needle. Standard setting is the midway point between high & low number. The other two knobs are the stitch length and stitch width dials. With the stitch length knob, zero will make the machine sew in the same place, so you'll want to set it probably midway (the higher the number, the longer the stitch). With the stitch width dial, zero will sew a straight stitch--the higher the number the wider the stitch). Spend about 30 minutes reading the manual and you'll probably be able to use your machine. ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading the top thread so the thread will seat properly.

A video may also be helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UC4ci-t5M60

RELAX!!!

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you'll have to contact a sewing machine shop in your area and ask them if they can fix it

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Depends on what stitch you intend to use. I do a lot of mending with a three step zigzag set to maximum width and minimum length -- see: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/24395076 A wide, short zigzag stitch is another popular choice, as is a straight stitch worked back and forth over the area: http://www.running-w-scissors.com/2014/01/tutorial-patch-mend.html

If you're just mending a seam that's come unstitched, a straight stitch or zigzag stitch similar to what's already in the seam is what you're looking for.

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Does it have a stitch length dial which ranges from 4 down to 0 and then into negative numbers? If so, the negative numbers will be reverse stitches. Some machines have this functionality and its very happy for doing mending or stitching in awkward places to sew backwards without having to hold the reverse button.

However, if yours is only sewing backwards when stitch length is set to 2, 3 or 4, then its probably a drive problem internally. Don't think your machine has a seperate motor for the feed dogs, probably a gear driven shaft in the free arm.

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My singer 2010 sewing machine will not stitch. it has a cruchy noise when turning the wheel :( The bobbin wont catch with the needle under as well :( is it me doing something wrong or the machine?


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1 Answer

Stitches missing on the bottom of fabric, forming big loops, while top of fabric stitches are normal


It sounds as if you have a tension problem. Let me give you instructions for adjusting the tension on anysewing machine. Be sure to have a scrap piece of the fabric you are using andthread the top of the machine with a different color of thread than thebobbin-it'll make it easier to see what's going on. Thread your machine with the presser foot UP. The disks that control the tension (threadgoes through them) are tightened up if the foot is down. Change the machine tension with the presser foot DOWN.Because the disks won't be engaged (see above) if the foot is up, the diskswon't move. Start at the middle setting, 3. Go up to tighten, decrease toloosen. Each machine is different, even 2 different machines of the same model.The best thing to do is start at 3 and use a different color in the top andbobbin thread so you can easily see what changes to the tension do to yourstitches. Now use a straight stitch a sew 3 or so inches. Take a lookat the top and bottom of the fabric. You don't want to see any (or at least notmuch) of the other color showing from the other side. Loops on the bottom of the fabric means you need to tighten(increase) your top tension. If you're stitches on the bottom are causingpuckering, then you need to loosen you're top tension. For the most part, youreally don't want to touch your bobbin tension-leave that to a repairtechnician. The factory setting shouldn't be touched except by someone whoreally knows what they're doing. Keep sewing a few inches at a time until you have the resultsyou want. Now you're tension is where you need it!

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Not sure if you are doing embroidery w /a hoop and all, which I don't do but I have lots of decorative stiches . Ytp lacing some tear away interfacing below the fabric you are going to sew. Most stitches come out top to bottom. Say I have an alligator option. Image will be about 1 1/2 inch , Try it on a piece of scrap fabric to start. I used muslin and the tear away bnacking to stabilize the design on lettering and patters.Also use good thread. I like Guttermans. Coat and Clark / Sulky are very fine and snag and tear easily. Good luck. Keep trying. The design you sew will show on both sides , so if you do not want that you will have to add another level of fabric to the backside after completing the design. Hope that makes sense.

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This sewing machine looks exactly like the Berninas that I own, although my are not industrial. You just use the dial to make each side of the buttonhole, only having to set the stitch length to super small. The way you make buttonholes is this:

Think of the buttonhole as a square-ish capital O, with the center of the bottom of the O as the point where the button shank will lie when buttoned. Place the marked buttonhole area under the buttonhole foot, with this bottom point directly under the foot, squarely in the center of the 'hole'.
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Try this with a plain piece of fabric. Just put the fabric under the foot and dial away. You'll see how the stitches stitch.

I'll send a copy of instructions from my manual to you if you want. Email me at: pink8006@yahoo.com.

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