Monitor does not come on right away, it makes a clicking noise then say no signal analog. after i trun off and on several times it comes on but the screen is wavy for a while

If you are getting "no signal" on your monitor right away when you start the computer, then try installing a dedicated video card.

If you get a signal right away and you can read info on the screen, but then it becomes "no signal". You should try getting the correct drivers for your video card here:
http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/Pages/index.aspx

To install the drivers just boot into safe mode by pressing F8 several times when you start the computer until the boot menu comes up. Then select "safe mode with networking" or "safe mode"

...you can also try reinstalling your chipset drivers from here:
http://support.acer.com/product/default.aspx?modelId=337

There are several things you can do to help limit motor noise interference but first you have to figure out if the noise is coming from the power wire, or the antenna system. Here is how to do that.

1. Start the car, and turn on the radio.
2. Trun the squelch off so that you can hear the interference.
3. Unscrew the antenna coax from the back of the radio.(make sure that you do not key the radio at this point. It is bad to key a radio without an antenna hooked up.)

If the noise goes away when you unplug the coax, the noise is getting in from the antenna system. It's either getting in from bad coax, poorly grounded antenna, or position of antenna. For instance, if its mounted on the back of the truck some times it picks up the fuel pump noise.

If the noise is still there then it is coming in via the power cable. If this is the case then there are a few things you can do.

First. Make sure the radio has a good ground. Next, run the power wire right to the battery. This eliminates most noise. Twisting the power cord helps cancel out some noise. And a knot right at the plug end of the cord also helps. Lastly, if the noise is still bad you can get a power wire ground loop noise canceling unit. This stops most noise.

Actually, you have several tape loops: CDR/Tape, VCR1 and VCR2. The bottom right part of Page 7 in the manual shows how to connect a Tape Deck (or any in/out processor).

Be advised that the engagement of any device in a Tape Monitor loop on a late-model Audio/Video Receiver will effectively tie the receiver down to stereo-only analog sound reproduction. I'll explain.

The connections themselves are fairly simple but it pays to understand what happens in the loop.

In general, any Line-Level external processor (EQ, dynamic range expander, etc) will go into a Tape Monitor loop on a receiver. A Tape Monitor, when engaged, sends the stereo analog signal Out to the Processor, massages it and returns it to the receiver via the Tape Monitor IN connectors to be passed on to the receiver's internal processes (volume, tone, whatever).

Old school analog stereo-only receivers consistently work this way. Newer digital and audio/video receivers introduce a couple of problems: 1) digital sound processing to simulate a variety of soundfields; 2) multiple output channels, either discrete or digitally-generated.

The latter requires that whatever signal is being processed experiences a maximum of one analog-digital-analog conversion.

EVERYTHING analog coming into the modern digital receiver is automatically converted to a digital signal for internal processing unless you choose a STEREO-only or STEREO-Direct setting. Consequently, no further external analog-digital conversions would be allowed if, say, a Tape Monitor circuit was activated, and a possible feedback loop could otherwise be created in a digital-sourced selection (output to its own input), so the unit is wired to treat the Tape Monitor as the first analog step in the process and defeats any pure digital sources.

In a multichannel unit, what would happen to the other channels if you sent ONLY the Front Left & Right out for processing? They would NOT be processed. That logical problem also plays into the decision to defeat digital sources if the Tape Monitor is activated. I don't totally agree with the engineers but that's the way it is. Nature of the digital beast.

Okay, back to the hook-up: Receiver Tape- or VCR Out to the External Processor (EQ, whatever) Preamp-, Amp-, Tape- or Rec-In; Receiver Tape- or VCR In from the External Processor (EQ, whatever) Preamp-, Amp-, Tape- or Rec-Out.

I have a whole array of 2-channel analog processing electronics looped out of one Tape Loop on my AVR - via a dbx 400x Program Route Selector - for making tapes or CD-R Audio recordings and otherwise modifying the analog sound for various purposes.

It is not receiving a signal, check the connections. Also most monitors have dual connections, one for analog and the other for digital. If yours is using the DVI Digital connection then you need to switch you monitor to that input. There is usually a button on the front that will allow you to switch between the two, it is usually an arrow pointing to a box.

Everything seems perfectly normal...

When you connect the computer to the monitor via an analog VGA cable, you get signal on the analog input.
When you connect them via a DVI cable, you feed the monitor's DIGITAL input, so the monitor doesn't get any signal on it's analog input, and informs you about it.
You have to select the digital input from the monitor's On Screen Menu, and then start the computer up - you should see the picture OK.
Also remember to set the display resolution on your computer to match the optimum (native) resolution of your monitor - this will give you optimum picture quality. In case of VA712B it will be 1280x1024.
Good luck and please come back with a testimonial if helped.

Hello.
Simply hooking up is not enough. What type of cable are you using? HDMI? analog VGA? DVI? S-Video?
* You should also use [Fn] button in combination with [F5], [F8] or another button that shows monitor sign as well (CRT/LCD if it's in written form). Possibly by pressing several times in order to achieve results.
* In some graphical cards (usually in Intel Extreme Graphics) you should locate icon on systray (near the clock) and right click on it, then choose (Graphic Options) -> Ouput to -> Intel (R) Dual Display Clone -> Monitor + Notebook (if you are using VGA cable)

A solution in graphical details can be found here:
http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/MIGR-58625.html#ie

You power/inverter board more than likely needs an overhaul of at least the capacitors.
I do these on ebay.
There is a slim chance that one of your bulbs is failing ? This would normally show as a little pink in the screen, or flickering.
If you need instructions to disassemble it, let me know.
bammbammfran

input signal out of range would normally indicate the the screen resoloution is either too high or too low for the monitor to display properly.

is this on just one game? which version of windows do you use?

Yes! :)

Your monitor is not the problem. Check all the connections from the back of the monitor, to the computer.

"No Signal Analog" means your monitor is working perfectly, however is not receiving signal from the computer.

Didnt find any loose cables?
Try unplugging everything. Leave it unplugged for at least 5 minutes. You need to give the system time to drain all the excess power.

Again your monitor is fine, blue light > No signal > orange light is totally normal for your montior.

It happened that to me last year. After 2 weeks of cracking sound symptoms, my monitor begun to blackout - no video signal but the indicator light is still available. I checked it inside using my tester, one of its transistor was burned-out. I tried to replace it and its working up to now. Possible cause of this is probably overuse of monitor without proper ventilation causing electronic components to overheat. Try to bring it to an authorized TV repair man in your local area for proper diagnosis - Don't try to fix it yourself. He's the right expert to that.