The shoe into which the battery wire connects has come loose (and even comes out). As a result, the RTI T2+ unit regularly shorts out. Any ideas on how or where I can get it fixed in Canada?

Not enough information in the question, but captioning comes from the cable or satellite box and it turned of via its remote. No idea what RTi is, but it seems to be some type of fancy universal remote, but we don't know what it is connected to?

https://www.google.com/search?q=RTi+remote

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Those wires in the shoe are actually delicate and subject to damage from constant vibration. Depending on the shoe, the lights and wires, batteries may be in the sole. If that is the case you can pull the liner out and check to see if you can access the electronics. It may be sealed though.

Can I replace the motherboard in my RTI remote

T3s and T2-Cs are very delicate and often go to the White Screen of Death WSoD when dropped. (a play on the term BSoD from windows)

The remote needs to be serviced to fix this. If you explain the remote goes to white screen when you call RTI they will understand.
their tech support number to get a return authorization is here. They will explain how to pack and ship it.
(952) 253-3136

The red indicates low battery. The batteries are estimated to last around 2 years at that point or later the battery will weaken and the red light will show up more often. In some rare cases the red light will not go away even with a fully charged new battery, in that case there may be something wrong with the charging circuit inside the remote that gives feedback on the battery's charge. You can either live with a false reading of the battery level and charge the remote nightly OR you can send it to RTI for a repair.

Your electrician should have run a set of wires out to the generator from the transfer switch. The unit actually comes with a fuse holder, fuse, terminal connector, and jumper wire for installing these wires to the t1 or t2 terminals in the transfer switch. The dc wires will be the ones coming out of the battery charger, 1 of them will have a red marker around it, that is your dc positive. The 2 wires coming out of the opposite side of the battery charger is actuall your ac connection.

hope this helps let me know.

Suggest having the alternator checked. If that checks out good, then you have a short in the wiring. The only way to find the short is to check each wire seperately from the alternator to the battery. It will take time to do this, so be patient. Hope this helps.

Is there a small LED light illuminated where the low voltage wires connect to the main unit? There may be a small rubber boot covering the connection and the light. Just slide it back, and there should be a green LED light if the unit has power. If the LED is not on, there is no power to the unit (tripped breaker, plug came loose from electrical outlet, etc.) If LED is illuminated, short across the pins where the low voltage wires connect to the main unit. (These will be small 18-22 gauge wires, not the larger electrical cable!) You can do this with a coin. (Don't worry, it's just 24 volts and you won't even feel it) The unit should come on. If it doesn't, and you have light from the LED, then it's probably the relay on the board inside the unit, or the motor. Good Luck!

Hi,

Your post/description:
1. "...can apply slight pressure...connector...come back on...: indicates a loose connection or probably corroded terminals. The easy way is to spray it with electrical contact cleaner. The preferred method is to disconnect connector and with a thin sharp object scrape the pins (both male & female). An indicator of corrosion is dull greenish/grayish discoloration of the terminals. At times when the color is brown indicates probability of high current or loose connection. Same cleaning would and should rectify. On some instances, the female connector might be loose where the male will no longer contact tightly. Applying a slight squeeze with a pliers should tighten it up a bit making the joint firm and solid. Of course, safe practice should be exercised and verify the ign/acc is off before doing any electrical work. Please make sure that you don't remove your battery terminals since most current models of car radio units will go into protective/lock mode when battery is disengaged.

2. "...short in the wiring..." beg to disagree. If it were a short, a fuse will blow and it will not light up even intermittently.

Hope this be of some help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need further information.

Good luck and kind regards.