Question about Refrigerators
Our Refrigerator was making a constant buzzing sound. We woke up this morning to a puddle of water coming from the bottom of the unit as well as the freezer being completely defrosted. We're not looking at buying a new one, but could it be the motor is not working at cooling the unit?
Thanks for your time....
th ebi-metal is a thermostat which shuts the defrost heater on/off, but doesnt actually put the unit into defrost. if it were bad the defrost heater would never go on resulting in massive build up of ice on back wall of freezer, and noticable refrigeration sect. cooling.. dont know how you know the compressor never shuts down, but if that the case perhaps you have a sealed system/ freon issue. try removing the back panel of freezer section and check the evaporator coil. you shuld have an even frost pattern over the entire evap coil. if theres just frost over the top 1or 2 coils, and the rest of coil is shiny aluminum , thats an indication of a sealed system issue.( 5 year part warr by manufacture) def not a do it yourself issue...but that would,, depending on extent of restriction/loss of freon,, cause freezer to freeze and defrost eratically,and the compressor would be running constantly trying to achieve a good stable temp
Posted on Apr 02, 2008
I would look to the condenser where the heat is removed from the refrigeration system for your problem. Check and make sure the condenser fan operates, check the compressor for operation. If the condenser is plugged with dust it will cause the compressor to cycle on its thermal overload protector. Normally in back there is a removable panel to access the condenser and compressor area. make sure you reinstall the cover after you are done. It is critical to proper operation and cooling of the system.
Posted on Jun 01, 2008
suspect you have a problem with the defrost system and hence the noise with the fan. take back panel off inside the freezer and if i'm right, melt ice off with a hairdryer. get back to me to say the results if you want
Posted on Aug 23, 2008
It appears you may have a defrost thermostat problem. I'll tell about the entire defrost cycle to help you understand. Your defrost drain may also be stopped up.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the inside of the freezer at the bottom of the rear cover.
Posted on Feb 02, 2011
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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.
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