Question about Weather King 12AJA4801AH Air Conditioner

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Weatherking furnace After the temp is meet the first time.The system start to short cycle.The ignitor lights,flame come out,blower come on.But,if it's blowes for 2&3 sec.it cuts back OFF .And if it's blowes for 4&5 sec it will work correctly.

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  • Anonymous Dec 06, 2008

    Yes I have the same problem. I have to turn thermostat down one notch below the room temperature and then back up to get the furnace to start and then it lights for a few seconds and then goes out and then after awhile it lights again and seems to work fine until it reaches the temperature the thermostat is sat at and then I have to do it all over again. Sometimes though it kicks on and off fine.

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Easy to fix. Looking inside the burner box, you should see a rod that extend into the flame. Sand this rod with sand paper and try to start the furnace again. if this does not work, replace this part.

Thx,
Peanut
RepairUSA

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

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1 Answer

My furnace will not reach the desired house temperature in one cycle. It will run for several minutes, shut off, and repeat. It eventually reaches the desired temp but it take a long time and I feel it...


There are a few different reasons for short cycling of a furnace.
1. Inadequate air flow. Not enough air moving through the furnace can cause it to overheat and trip the high temperature limit switch.
check to see that all registers are open and returns are not blocked.
2 Improper heat anticipator setting on thermostat. Some thermostats have a heat anticipator and too low of a setting can cause short cycling.

4 Partially blocked drain hoses. If the condensate backs up into the furnace it can shut the flame off and then when the condensate drains the furnace starts again. Check all drain hoses to make sure they are clear.
These are just some of the possible reasons for short cycling .
Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

LOCATION OF 62-24164-01 IGNITOR ON WEATHER KING FURNACE


Who knows? You gotta post a video of your furnace so we can see what you got. Here is the sequence of operation of a late model furnace. they all basically work the same way. They have a draft inducer fan that causes a vacuum in a small hose leading to the pressure switch. If the board reads negative pressure it know the draft motor is working and pulling a draft it then cause the ignitor to kick in and after a minute opens the gas valve. It wait a sec to verify flame with the flame sensor and then if that flame is there it keeps burning and after 30 more seconds the fan kicks in.
Most of the time if the ignitor ain't workin it is either bad or a limit has tripped due to some sort of overheat problem like birdnest or cobwebs and such.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=NjOsXv4Z-lg

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

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My furnace sometimes won't ignite. The blower will start to run, but the gas won't kick in. I have to unplug it and sometimes when I plug it back in - it will run a full cycle and heat up to the temp....


On a call for heat first your inducer motor starts if your furnace is equipped with one. Next a pressure switch closes and sends power to your ignitor it will glow or spark then the gas valve opens and you get fire now you have to prove flame to keep gas valve open this is accomplished by a flame sensor usually opposite end of ignitor. Let me know if this helps If you can watch it run and see it fail I would be more accurate with a diagnosis. Thanks

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If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

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The flash code is due to the furnace not proving flame 3 times in a row. If you have a multimeter you can ohm the ignitor out to see if it is good. Depending on the type (silicon Nitride or silicon Carbide) you can verify if it is good. A silicon Nitride ignitor looks like a small thin straight bar type will ohm @ 11 - 18 ohms, a carbide ignitor looks kinda like a tuning fork (sorta) will typically ohm @ 40 - 92 ohms. anything outside of those ranges will require a replacement.

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Sounds like it it isn't the igniter but probably the pressure switch. You can only tell by the clicking noises as they system goes through it's safty checks prior to the call to the igniter.

Mar 05, 2009 | Weather King 12AJA4801AH Air Conditioner

1 Answer

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You make a good point about overheating on heat exchanger temp.

Since you don't have to reset anything for it to recycle, then I assume you have one of the newer forced draft furnaces.

There should be leds on the control board inside the furnace compartment that will blink a code to you, telling what the shutdown reason was. Blinks and code should be on a label inside the blower door panel, or inside the control box cover.

Let me know what they are, and I can give you more direction. I am assuming this furnace worked at some point, and no changes have been made (including closing of duct vents).

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  1. The sensor that tells the furnace whether the gas is lit has got build-up on it and is giving the furnace bad information.
  2. The flame sensor is often a single wire or rod that sticks up in the center of the flame.
  3. You can shut off the furnace and the gas and clean the sensor with some sandpaper.
If that still doesn't work, the sensor may need to be replaced.

Please rate this solution.

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1 Answer

My furnace works intermittently.


You may have a dirty flame sensor. There are a number of other possible causes as well. Rheem/Ruud/Weatherking furnaces also have problems with the connection on the blower deck.
The flame sensor sometimes must be bypassed around the MOLEX CONNECTOR in the deck due to humidity.
Hope this helps.
Matt
maxhtcl1@verizon.net

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