Question about RCA R52WM24 52" HDTV Projection Television

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Fusible link keeps blowing out , shutting tv off

Tried replacing it several times, it works for a few minutes then the fuse gets blown. Checked circuit board, no bad leads, solder joints, or shorts, no scoring or blown components. Nothing seems a miss. The fuse I'm referring to is the fusible link t400ma on the FL231 space. Is there something I'm missing here that could be causing the fuse to be blown everytime.

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  • arynsunn Jan 08, 2008

    I cant find the convergence ic's for my tv. RCA told me they start with stk but I can't find anything starting with stk. all the chips on my heat sinks are small. can anyone help me locate them I have a rca r52wm24.

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Arynsunn,

Thanks to you, I was able to find the solution to my problem.
Have you tried using the correct Fusible Link? I noticed in another post that you said you replaced it with a 500ma instead of the 400ma. I had the same original problem as you and found the exact fuseible links at www.mouser.com. Part# 576-3960400000 Littelfuse Fuses - A 125V UL TL LL .400A . They are only 55 cents plus shipping. I bought 5 for under $10 shipped. Only took 2 days to get them. My TV works like a charm now! I too thought I may need to replace the IC's but thankfully my TV is working fine. If you did need to replace them, where were they located? I couldn't find any stk IC's inside either and the IC's on the heat sinks are all small. Just trying to be proactive, in case I ever need to replace them.

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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My whole dash went off no lights the techmonotor doesn't work none of the gagues?


Sounds like you may have a blown fuse for your instrument panel assembly, open your fuse box and read on the cover the location of your instrument panel fuse pull it out with the fuse puller and see if its blown it its blown replace the fuse with the SAME amperage fuse you removed, your gauges should work again, if the fuse is good check the plug going into the back of the cluster and make sure its secure and clean, if your fuse is blown and you replace it with another fuse and it right blows again theres a short in the wiring for your instrument cluster circuit and further diagnosing will be required to locate and fix a potential short....

Dec 07, 2010 | 1997 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

On/off button flashes, nothing on screen for perhaps 20 minutes... or not at all. I have checked the electrical and computer connections, rebooted computer several times, etc.


Does the same with other PC?
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed ACER monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.

Basic LCD monitor troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.

Oct 12, 2010 | Acer AL1916W 19" LCD Monitor

1 Answer

No display, monitor getting on, vga cable is ok cpu is working with another monitor, working with this monitor also can hear booting music but no display


Look for shorted out transistors in the inverter circuits, bad solder joints, bad caps.
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed DELL monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.

Replacement board: http://www.lcdrepair.us

Sep 21, 2010 | Dell E172FP 17" LCD Flat Panel Monitor

1 Answer

I have a similar problem to one posted a few months ago - flashing LED on the power button, except the monitor does come on after a couple of minutes and the LED stops flashing. bdmrtn said to the other...


Look real close at the solder joints on the inverter transformer pins, and the transitors. What usually happen is that the cold solder joints will mess up the bias on the transistors or causes arcing and that will take out the transistors, you need good magnifier glass to see, you will see ring/cracking around the component's leads.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Poor%20solder%20joints/
It will get to the point that the transistors 2sc5707/5706, and also still should look for bad caps.
Replacement board: http://www.lcdrepair.us
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Dell%20E173FPb/

Sep 17, 2010 | Dell E173FP 17" LCD Monitor

1 Answer

I have a Dell E173FP 17" monitor. The screen goes blank after a few seconds. When I press the on/off button to turn it back on, it comes back on for a few seconds and goes blank again.


Look for bad caps, shorted transistors, fuse, cold solder joints.
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed DELL monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.
Replacement board: http://www.lcdrepair.us

Sep 08, 2010 | Dell E173FP 17" LCD Monitor

1 Answer

THE MONITORES POWER LIGHT KEEPS BLINKING AND THE MONITOR WON'T WORK AND STAYS BLACK


It has shorted out transistors in the inverter circuits, also look for cold solder joints, fuse.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Dell%20E173FPb/

If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

Replacement board:
http://www.lcdrepair.us

Aug 09, 2010 | Dell E173FP 17" LCD Monitor

2 Answers

Backlight repeatedly turns off


Replace the backlight.
Google your make and model, lots of places selling replacements

Jul 31, 2010 | Belinea 10 15 55 15" LCD Monitor

1 Answer

Monitor going black


You may have failing power supply due to bad DC filter caps and also poor solder joints on the board, look for dark brown spots on the power supply/inverter board.
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed VIEWSONIC monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
http://www.badcaps.net

Jul 08, 2010 | ViewSonic VA2012WB Monitor

1 Answer

Lg flatron 22 inch keeps switching its self on an off repeatedly ..its not the leads its the tv ...tried a friends monitor with my leads ..no problems


Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, blown fuses, poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed LG monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
http://www.badcaps.net

Jun 10, 2010 | LG 22" FLATRON LCD Monitor

3 Answers

Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, Blown Fused F850+F852


Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
********
Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001

Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852

Symptoms January, 2009:

  • Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
  • Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
    • Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
    • Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
  • Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
    • Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
  • Possible related note: Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
  • Fuses F850 and F852 found blown

Repairs Made:
  • PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
    • There are two main power supply capacitors in this set. They are C-809 and C-810. One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time. When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
    • Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
      • I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
      • Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
      • Used a fast blow 2 Amp for F852.
  • PD0073 SIGNAL Board
    • Re-soldered Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps
    • Re-soldered adjacent pads that looks suspicious

Total Cost to Repair about $10
  • Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
  • Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
  • Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
  • Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
  • Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities. One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU! Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.

Jan 04, 2009 | Toshiba 57H81 57" Rear Projection...

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