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I don't understand the bend down rhing. The drain stopper, as you call it, has a rod that goes through the end of it to enable opening and closing with the vertical control.If I'm on the same page, under the sink on the backsie there is nut that holds the stopper control.. It has a nut you need to remove and line up the short end with the stopper slot, then put the nut back on to secure the ball. Don't overtighten. Now the log end of that same rod is secured with a spring clip to the un and down control rod . It can be adjusted by moving the spring clip up or down on the control rod. noyhing isbroken, just pulled apart or out of adjustment.
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There should be a stopper valve on the sink's downspout (the first section of drain pipe). You SHOULD be able to loosen the nut holding the stopper valve's lever inside the pipe. Once you remove that nut, you can pull the lever out - that releases the stopper inside the sink, so you should start with the stopper OPEN, and hold it open with a chopstick or pencil or other tool when you remove that lever.
The lever and the bottom of the stopper itself will be wrapped with masses of hair. That's normal. Clean it up and reinsert it, put the nut back on & snug it down, then readjust the stopper.
If that's not enough, you may need to open the trap (the gooseneck-shaped piece of drain pipe under the sink) to clean it out.
The lever it's hooked to under the sink it has a nut to loosen to pull lever back. Then the drain stopper will be able to be removed. Check out this link to get a look at the under neath to help you I hope.
Toe tap stoppers remove by just gripping the stopper and unscrewing it. Once the stopper has been removed the hair will be usually caught on the crossbar underneath the stopper where it can be removed with needlenose pliers.
Spring type stoppers for drains are just about as notorious for being hair catchers. Once again there is nothing to stop the hair from leaving the tub.
YOU CAN TRY BY ADJUSTING THE ROD ,UNDERNEITH THE SINK ,MUST POP-UP ASSEMBLIES,HAVE A ROD COMING OUT OF THE DRAIN AND A ROD WITH SEVERAL HOLES ON ,IT TO ADJUST HOW FAR YOU CAN PULL THE ROD UP ,WHICH IN TURNS SHOULD MAKE THE STOPPER GO DOWN,ALSO A COMMON PROBLEM IS THERE IS TO MUCH HAIR AND TOOTHPASTE STUCK ON THE STOPPER ITSELF,SO SIMPLY UN SCREW THE NUT, THAT IS HOLDING THE ROD INTO THE DRAIN ,THEY LIFT UP THE STOPPER,THE STOPPER SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO BE REMOVED WITHOUT TAKING THE NUT AND ROD OUT ,IF SO YOU MIGHT HAVE TO REPLACE THE WHOLE POP-UP ASSEMBLY
unscrew what ever is covering the hole where the water drains out,.... use a pair of needle nose pliers or an old coat hanger with a little hook pre-bent in it (don't get it stuck in there) and pull out the hair,....it's that easy! good luck, cracklin joe
Okay, remove 2 phillips head screws at lever handle/overflow.
Pull firmly with much effort and bowing the connecting rod a bit.
Up will come a heavy duty spring on the end of the rod.(prolly a big slimly hair ball too!)
Hope you get the spring, cause that's what works the drain stop.
If spring doesn't come out you'll have to "fish" it out.
Clean everything up real good and flush drain good also now.
The "Secret" now is to put the Lever,rod and spring assembly back in and replace screws and get the lever flipped to the left BEFORE you put the Drain Stop in.
If this is a trip lever waste type of drain it can be adjusted, Remove the 2 screws that hold the adjusting lever, this will allow you to remove the stopper. Clean the stopper of hair and sludge and replace. This will usually fix the problem. If not then adjust the linkage for the stopper.
To clean the drain simply remove the packing nut off the back of the pop-up assembly. This is located under the sink itself and will be on the back side of the chrome (might be plastic) pipe coming out of the drain hole. This nut is what is holding the rod in place. When you remove it be sure not to lose the ferule (nylon washer) inside. after the nut is off, you can pull the actual stopper out and have better access to the drain inside. Use a small hair remover (you can buy these at the "depot"), it has a long body with small "spines" coming off the sides to catch hair, to pull out hair. It should be long enough to get into the P-Trap. After you are satisfied you can put the stopper back in. Make sure the hole in the bottom of the stopper is lined up to catch the rod. Reassemble the packing nut with ferule and check for leaks. If you want to take the trap off be sure to have some 'pipe dope' on hand to reseal the threads. Teflon tape is not necessary. Reassemble the trap and check for leaks and you should be good to go. Good luck :).
The stoper assembly has linkage and a plumb bob aparatus
Step 1 remove the 2 screws that hold the chrome overflow cover,
Step 2 you will see a wire connected to the up and sown handle
Step 3 you should be able to fish out the linkage which will have a bumb bob attached mae sure this is all connected if not reattach if you do not see the blumb bob reach your fingers in and grab the wire
Step 4 inspect the linkage the first link is about 3 inches from chrome cove, second is about 8 inches down and final is at the bob itself bob is pointed and slides in by gravity If this all looks ok then fish it down , put chrome cover on and move lever up and down ( you should see the stopper mve up and down
Step 5 If stopper is not in just insrt in drain hole and move the lver flow lever up and down and drain should work sometimes the stoper does not go up or down far enough there could be an adjustment on the linkage to reduce or increase the length of the linkage
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