Need second stitch selector plastic piece that goes in the top of the machine HELP

Your AE 68 will have three dials across the front, from L-R, stitch selector, stitch width and stitch length. To sew any stitch with a sidewise needle movement, you will need to turn the stitch selector to that stitch on the selector, then turn the stitch width to between 3 and 4 and the stitch length to a similar setting, adjusting to get the stitch formation you need. To sew with the discs, set all the dials to zero, then insert a cam into the Elnagraph on top of the machine. Then turn the selector to the disc icon, and the stitch length around to the "S" and stitch width to 4.

Don't use reverse if using the elnagraph stitches.

You'll have to provide more information about the sewing machine. 158 indicates the manufacturer. However, there are a lot of Kenmore sewing machines from that manufacturer. The 158.1340 manual is available here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/150291/Kenmore-1340.html .

Page 40 (41 in the linked format) begins the section on buttonholes. With the buttonhole attachment, you need to set the stitch to the second narrowest zig-zag stitch. You can use any stitch length. The description of using the buttonhole attachment starts on page 45.

Without the buttonhole attachment, you set the stitch selector to each part of the buttonhole as you reach them. The stitch length dial has to be set to an appropriate length in the block for buttonholes. The top and bottom tack bars use the same stitch selector. There are separate ones for the left and right sides of the button hole.

I hope this helps. Please add a comment with the rest of the model number on your sewing machine for specifics with your machine.

Cindy Wells

could you explain more about what the machine zig zag stitch is doing or not doing?

Set the stitch length to 0, stitch selector to straight stitch. Find a thin piece of plastic or cardboard and punch a smooth hole in it for the needle to go through. Tape the plastic over the feed dogs with the hole aligned under the needle, and you should be good to go.
The fake credit cards that show up in junk mail are perfect for this.

Get a new machine or have this one professionally repaired.

The camstack is out of line with the selector bar in the top of the machine, you will need an engineer to adjust it

I bought a Janome 627 from a second hand shop in Melbourne, Australia. The pattern selector on that machine was stuck - you could select the right-most stitches but it would not move to the stitches to the left of the button holes. I opened the machine and lubricated the stitch selector plate, and lubricated the other the nylon gears, with Triflow clear synthetic grease. I also gently raised the arm connected to the selector plate to the left a little with my finger to help ease it across as I turned the selector button towards the stiches on the left. I could see how the arm needed to raise a little to click into each stitch so I gently helped it do the raise movement. After a few uses the stitch selector would move through all stitches on its own and weeks later it still does.

I bought a Janome 627 from a second hand shop in Melbourne, Australia. The pattern selector on that machine was stuck - you could select the right-most stitches but it would not move to the stitches to the left of the button holes. I opened the machine and lubricated the stitch selector plate, and other the nylon gears, with Triflow clear synthetic grease. These plates/gears are white. I also gently raised the metal arm connected to the selector plate to the left a little with my finger to help ease it across as I turned the selector button towards the stiches on the left. I could see how the arm needed to raise a little to click into each stitch so I gently helped it do the raise movement. It is clear which arm, as it was the one moving as I changed between the stitches that were able to be selected. After a few uses the stitch selector would move through all stitches on its own and weeks later it still does.

Right, now I've figured this out :)

Put your button in the holder on the foot - fiddle about with it enough and I'm sure you'll work out how, one bit slides open and then you can close it again to hold the button.

Then fit the foot to the machine - the piece with the button in goes at the back.

Select 2 on the stitch selector, 4.5 on the stitch width and buttonhole on the stitch length.

Using scraps make up a piece of fabric with the same number and construction of layers as your finished garment and do a practice run or three.

You can set the actual feed length using the -.+ control (beside the feed release switch at the front, below the sewing table).

Between button holes you need to reset by turning the stitch selector wheel slightly until you hear a click.

Once you're happy with the method, think you have the settings as you want them and feel you have done enough practice try it for real on the garment.

Note: the button holes come out a bit long - just don't cut down the whole length or you may need to hand sew them tighter.

Depends on which SU you have, but you need to move the stitch selector to Zig Zag, then set the stitch length to 2.5 and the stitch width to at least 2.

On the earlier models the stitch selector is a wheel inside the flap on the top of the machine, on the air electronics, it is a coloured dial.

If this doesn't help, check if you've inadvertently moved the needle position to the side setting.