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self clean latch does not operate - audible cleck is heard when starting self clean cycle JTP18...
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Problem for GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven
I replaced the WBX20154 glowbar for my oven as
I replaced the WBX20154 glowbar for my GE oven as directed, but now the ignitor doesnt light at all (the old one lit dimly, but I switched back to the old one and it doesnt work either). I carefully checked the wiring and it seems fine....not sure what is going on. (I hear the relay click on when I turn the oven on, but nothing happens at the ignitor). I am pretty sure that I didnt harm the ignitor during installation either!
Comments:
Nov 05, 2009
- I cant find the oven model number (I looked everywhere for a plate and cant find one). Sorry about the typo on the ignitor - the right # is WB2X9154.Nov 05, 2009
- I thought about the gas valve being bad...but it works for the broiler (and it was just working fine with the old ignitor). It just seems odd that it failed when I was swapping out the ignitor!Nov 05, 2009
- I tried the ignitor in the wall - good idea! That worked fine. You are right about the round ignitor (and the replacement is the same). However, when I wired the thing back up - still nothing. I carefully checked the connections...so that probably means that the oven valve is bad (although it seams weird that it would break at the same time I changed the ignitor). I found the oven # - JGBP28SEJ1SS.Clarification Request
Posted by MNTECH on Nov 05, 2009
Could you post your complete model number and check that part number?
Solution #1
posted on Nov 05, 2009
The model number on a built in oven is usually found on the oven frame, just behind the oven door. (should be a metal tag, or silver sticker) It is NOT LIKELY that the oven valve is bad. (although if you have a self clean model, they would have seperate valves for bake and broil)
When the oven is turned on, there should be 120 volts across the ignitor. You can test the igniter by putting one wire into the left side and one into the right side of a standard recepticle, but you have to be careful with bare wires and the ignitor gets hot very quickly, and stays hot for awhile, so if you try it, be very careful. I'm assuming that your original ignitor was a round one also (not a flat one). It is very important to use the same type as the original.
I suspect you have a poor electical connection. Make sure wires are stripped back about 1/2 inch, then make sure the ceramic wire nuts are tight when installed.
When the oven is turned on, there should be 120 volts across the ignitor. You can test the igniter by putting one wire into the left side and one into the right side of a standard recepticle, but you have to be careful with bare wires and the ignitor gets hot very quickly, and stays hot for awhile, so if you try it, be very careful. I'm assuming that your original ignitor was a round one also (not a flat one). It is very important to use the same type as the original.
I suspect you have a poor electical connection. Make sure wires are stripped back about 1/2 inch, then make sure the ceramic wire nuts are tight when installed.
Comments:
Nov 05, 2009
- Oven valve (WB19K10014) is rarely the problem. My bet would be that the electrical contacts inside the relay are bad, requiring replacement of the WB27K10219 control. The only way to tell for sure without just buying parts and trying is to use a meter and the electrical diagram to see if the control is sending 120 volts to the ignitor.Yes
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