Question about Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator with Factory Installed Ice Maker

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Defroster i checked both the heating element and the thermostat with a ohm meter element looked good thermostat showed bad     so i changed that how can i test now without removing everything to see if that fixes my problem

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All you have to do now is wait a few days to see if it frosts back up. If not you're home free. Far as the thermostat, if you checked it when it was over its cut out temp it would show "open" and would seem to be defective. Unless it has an internal factory test resistor in order to properly test a defrost thermostat it should be below approx 10 degrees for at least 20 mins

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

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1 Answer

I mistakenly pushed the defrost button. How can I stop defrosting?


it should normally come out of defrost mode after bout half hour but u can manually take out also.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

mistakenly-push-defrost-button-plz-tell-iizpua1124tc1voeqjalmrl5-3-0.jpg

mistakenly-push-defrost-button-plz-tell-iizpua1124tc1voeqjalmrl5-3-2.jpg

May 02, 2015 | Kelvinator Refrigerators

1 Answer

Have a diplomat apm 6842 how do you defrost freezer


the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?


Mar 23, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Icing problems/6 yr. old unit/will not go into defrost/replaced defrost board,thermosta and other boards and it's still frosting up


DEFROST TIMER

May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM

Feb 21, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Trigger manual defrost mode on fridge


check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

25171812-iizpua1124tc1voeqjalmrl5-3-0.jpg

25171812-iizpua1124tc1voeqjalmrl5-3-2.jpg

25171812-iizpua1124tc1voeqjalmrl5-3-5.jpg

Oct 02, 2014 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

Evaporator keeps icing up , checked heater ok


it may be low on freon or have a defrost problem. you should check the door seals and gaskets. you

put a sheet of paper between the door and seal all around the door if you can pull it out easily the door

is not sealing properly, look for wor n or torn seals or gaskets, make sure the seal is clean and does

not have any icing, food,liquid on it. remove the evaporator coil cover, if the coils are frosted to the

point that the fan cannot pull air thru it, then it is a defrost problem. try to get it to defrost if the heater

heats up the defrost control needs replacing. if it does not heat up it's either the defrost element

or thermostat. undo the element and check it with an ohm meter should read about 30 ohms. remove

one wire from thermostat and check with an ohm meter , should be o ohms when frozen. it opens

just above freezing. good luck!



Feb 14, 2011 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

1 Answer

Top freezer doesn't defrost and the thing just keeps on running. The element looks good after i put a light in it to melt all the ice,were does the problem lie.


Several things could cause the problem depending on the model. First, the defrost heater could be bad. It can be checked with a continuity tester or an ohm meter. Second, the defrost timer could be bad and may not be advancing. If you manually advance the defrost timer till it is in the defrost mode, and the defrost heater does heat up, that usually indicates that the heater is good but the timer is bad. Third, there is also a defrost thermostat attached to the heater. It may be bad. The defrost thermostat is a N/C (normally closed) switch and can be checked with a continuity tester.
The heater and thermostat are in the area of the cooling coils, and the timer is many times under the refrigerator.
Hope that helps.

Jun 24, 2010 | Haier HTE18WAA Top Freezer Refrigerator

3 Answers

Defrost heater not turninh on


That model has what is called a adaptive defrost on it this fails very often it is located inside the ref under the control panel, The only other possible cause would be a defrost thermostat, this is located near the heater.

Aug 11, 2009 | Maytag MSD2650H Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Heating element does not heat imoved to a new house and the dryer just quit heating


Will to take it apart to get to the heating element, thermostats, and fuses. If are not familiar in taking it apart go to this websit www.partselect.com type in you model number and it shows diagrams on it. You can try to follow the diagrams it shows and try to take it apart and checking out your heating element, thermostat and fuses. I would start by Ohming this things out first with a multi meter on your ohm setting once you get to it. If they check out ok, then further troubleshooting will be needed.. Remember good fuses will read 0.0 ohms bad fused will read "OL" . You heating element should read i believe about 9-10 ohms i think. hopefully this helps

Jul 29, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Oven not working


chances are that the element is bad but with out more info on like what kind of thermostat you have if digital display if any codes like f-1 show this would be first thing i look at check power at element 220 volts should be at element if so element is bad (replace) is not you need to find the wiring diagram and follow it back and check voltage and ohms you will need a volt ohm meter for this.
good luck

Dec 06, 2007 | Ovens

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