What product should i use to put under my shower base before i set it. that would make the base feel more solid.

perhaps this may be of some help:

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-replace-shower-pan

On some faucets there is a set screw at the base of the lever and others have a set screw under the top cover. It sounds like your handle worked itself out and when you put it back on you didn't tighten the set screw. So the lever is turning but not engaging the valve stem.

Hello. When you say basement side, I assume you are referring to the underneath. There are a number of options available, all hinge on the conditions you have.

1) Plenty Of Room: The best scenario. You can install a solid cross brace (preferably the same material as your joists) across spanning from one joist to another under the seam. Nail (best method - due to ability to handle potential shear stresses) cross brace in as secure as possible to the floor boards. Once that is done, lightly drive in a shim or two coated both sides with a little (this stuff goes a long way!) construction adhesive.

2) Same as Above, But Pipes Run Through: Either use a solid cross brace that will fit (ie 2x3) and treat the same as above, or use the 2x2 method where they are installed diagonally, but directly underneath the seam and shim. This should remove most of the squeak.

3) Not So Much Room, But Still Workable: (ie no pipes but limited access) Build an "H" frame that will span between joists, and the cross piece will do the same as #1. Secure in any manner you can, but ensure that it is secure on both sides of each support. Then shim and glue.

4) Can't Cross Brace: Not the greatest solution, but sometimes necessary. This one depends solely on the knowledge you have of the materials used... specifically their thickness'. Cut a piece of 5/8 inch (3/4 inch is better) plywood that will fit into the beam spaces under the seam. Be sure that they span about 6 to 8 inch on either side of the seam using screws (prefferably the kind meant for wet applications). NOTE: some shower bases are installed on a concrete/thin-set curb, this means that the screws must not penetrate the sub floor OSB. So, if your flooring material is only 5/8 inch, your overall screw length should not exceed 5/8 plus material used. (ie 5/8 + 5/8 is 1 and 1/4 inch maximum. Ideally 1 inch only) After all we only want the screws to hold. Before securing the brace, spread a good construction adhesive on it (I am a big fan of PL Premium).


If you are referring to the other side of a wall, and the shower is on the lowest level, there isn't much available in my experience. I have seen some similar issues involve: removing the silicone around the base and securing that. This involves drilling some of the material out on one side of the seam, filling with a two part epoxy, using heavy weights to secure the floor down, and shaping the epoxy smooth so the caulking will cover. This never does the job completely as access to the seam is limited.

These methods are a few suggestions that should help the issue. If they help out, please rate this answer a four thumbs-up. Thank you and good luck.

There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.

There is a set screw under the handle. You will need an allen wrench (hex head) to remove the set screw. Once you remove the set screw, use force to pull the handle away from the shower wall. If it feels stuck use some force alternating between pushing and pulling (rocking motion). I am including a picture in an exploded view so you can see how it assembles and disassembles for your convenience if you need it. Also if you need to replace any parts for the faucet, the part numbers are designated for easy replacement. I hope this helps and good luck!

some shower bases require additional support,I would call jacuzzi and explain the problem.If 6the unit required more bracing you will probably have to reach the contractor who put the unit in,then go from there,but this day and age it is hard to get satisfaction cause no one wants to be liable for labor and product.good luck hope you get satisfaction from one or the other!

If you have the option of not using the shower for a while, I would put a dehumidifier in the shower to **** the mositure out from below. If cost is no object, you can go ahead and pull the base. The key to the caulk is to completely remove the old caulk, clean carefully and use a silicon based caulk. Be sure to let it dry properly (see caulk cure times on tube).

sounds to me as though the problem might be coming from where the drain and pop-up rod meet,..you know how there is usually some little parts i.e.; o-ring, teflon bushings, etc. that HAVE TO BE put in in order,? check that stuff out and if it fixes problem, what looked like bad a spout might not be anymore,......

Hi sallypenn

I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.

Your question seems to be how to adjust the temperature of a shower valve?

I'm going to assume this is a single handle faucet. Most are adjustable under the handle. This is the responsibility of the installer but sometimes they forget and you can't get them back. Anyway this requires a little mechanical ability and a few tools.
First be sure to turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle (allen wrench or small screw driver). Most have a temp. adjustment ring right there. Simply pull out, rotate and replace. With some you have to remove the sleeve or bonnet under the handle to expose the adjustment fitting. Reasemble and turn on. It is not uncommon to have to do this two or three times before the customer is happy with the setting. The adjustment fittings usually don't have tenp. setting numbers to go by so it might take a few tries.

Feel free contact me again!
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Thank you,
Harvey your Master Plumber