Sirs: I was painting, and everything was going good. The next day, as soon as I began to paint, a leak of paint came out from the superior part of the painting gun. I separated all the parts and cleaned again; then I tried painting again, but it continued leaking. Can you help me? Thanks, Aníbal Vélez Product: Wagner Paint Crew Model 770

Hi,
You could try nail polish remover on a old (but clean) cloth/rag.
If it's works OK, you might want to dash-out & buy some really cheap nail polish remover, rather than waste the good stuff on this job.??
If there's really a lot of overspray, then buying a litre of proper paint thinners from a commercial paint store would make more sense.

(Note to self: Get newspapers or old bedsheets next time, to cover/mask everything I don't want painting.!!!)

Best of luck.

Doesn't sound like it was made to be put in an aquarium. Because there can be toxic chemicals that will kill fish, it is a good rule to only put things that are labeled as being Aquarium Safe into a fish tank.
I would have removed it as soon as I saw the paint coming off. There's plenty of aquarium decorations out there, look for those if you want something other than a natural look in your aquarium.

Mask everything off and on a windless day use some spray paints to do the deed. Also have a ladder or step stool so you can reach all areas properly and maintain the same distance from sprayer to roof at all times.

Always keep the can moving when you are spraying so that you do not put the paint on unevenly. Or like one of my friends did, got some real good quality paint and an expensive roller and ........
Came out real good. Could swear that paint was baked on.

same thing happening

Remove the latex paint and rough the area before applying. I prefer a 2 part epoxy glue

Let me start by saying these types of paint sprayers are not usually recommended for painting large things like room walls because you're going to spend a lot of time refilling the paint cup. The cup only holds 20 ounces of paint and that won't go very far on your walls. If all your paint isn't mixed and properly thinned at the same time your walls could end up with a checker board look. You would usually be way further ahead to rent an airless paint sprayer.
If you have to use it; first run your paint through a paint strainer, avaliable at any paint or box store (The Home Deopt, Lowes, etc). Even new paint has impurities that will clog paint guns. It's highly recommended you mix in a paint conditioner like Flotrol but not absolutely necessary. Next, you're going to have to experiment with the consistency of the paint to get a good even flow out of the gun. The thinner you have to make the paint to get a good flow, the lighter and more coats you're going to have to apply. It's also recommended to run a paint soaked roller over the wall right after you spray it to even out the paint and remove any overlap marks.

We used paint sprayers every day for years.

Tips come in different sizes. With oil base paints we used the small tip like a 4-11. With latex we used bigger tips, like a 5-17. Really big spray rigs use 5-19. Tip size matters.

Another important thing is to strain the paint. The paint store sells 5-gallon-size strainers. Put the strainer over a 5-gallon bucket. Pour the paint into the bucket. Lift the strainer up, and finally grab it with your hands and squeeze the paint out. Do this in the grass and then wash out the strainer for next time. Put a lid over the paint bucket so the paint stays wet and clean.

We used high pressure sprayers, and then wrapped a filter right over the intake... but the tips would still clog. We had guns with reversible tips ... rotate the tip around, fire the gun, and the clog was gone.

Maybe your tip is getting clogged real fast. When that happens, the gun simply doesn't shoot. The old guns, we had to take them apart every time the tip clogged. I don't know about the tip on your gun.

Your paint sprayer is probably not very high pressure, which means it would clog easily if stuff was in the paint ... and latex is thick and sticky and it gets crusty as it dries.

Suggestion: I would ask Sherwin Williams about the tip. See if they sell parts or tips at the Home Depot or Sherwin Williams.

Also you can clean the gun out with lacquer thinner. See if the lacquer thinner will pass through the gun. I would take it apart and clean everything with a toothbrush, and soak it in lacquer thinner. It might work, but the home-depot-home-owner-spray-equipment is generally not made for more than a few jobs. Especially the wagner-diaphragm-type guns.

Something else you might consider for a cedar-type picket fence. A roller. Sherwin Williams sells thick shaggy roller covers that hold a lot of paint. The little cheap roller covers can't paint a fence or anything else because they're too thin. We almost never sprayed a fence. We'd put masonite along the bottom and then just threw paint up with a roller [slap it on as the customers used to claim] >>> for cedar pickets, thin the paint with water (1 gallon water per 5 of paint) so it flows into the holes and gaps. Roll the fence, and then go back and touch up with a brush or the sprayer. A paint job on a fence always looks better the next day [unlike some things] so sometimes it's best to wait 1 day before doing the brush work.

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WHAT YOU HAVE IS A CHEMICAL REACTION THIS USUALY HAPPENS WHEN CELULOSE IN THE PAINT ATTACKS USUALY ACRYLIC PAINT WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE ONLY THING I WOULD RECOMEND IS HAVING THE FRAME OLD PAINT EITHER BURNED OFF WITH A BLOW TORCH OR HAVING IT SHOT BLASTED AND POWDER COATED WICH IS NOT THAT EXPENSIVE AND IT IS FAR SUPERIOR TO HAND SPRAYING AND LASTS FOR A VERY LONG TIME WITH A TOUGH FINISH