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My old Marantz Amp isn't well...

I have an old Marantz Amplifier ST353 has suddenly developed a problem where the output side of the unit is effectively non existent. I can have the whole unit connected as per normal but in order to get any sound out of it at all, I have to have the volume cranked to maximum and even then, I can only just hear it with head right next to speaker. Could this be power supply problem to amp fets or something more sinister? Rest of unit functions as per normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated as when working, is a ripper little unit.

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  • McJeebus Jan 05, 2008

    Yeah, everything's connected as per normal. Was weird. I went away for a week and when I returned home, it simply wouldn't work. I thought maybe a surge or something but I would have thought that would have done more damage than just drop the audio output.



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If there are any, make sure you have the set of speakers configured correctly on the amp. There maybe a set of buttons for example button A is for one set of speakers and button B is for the other, make sure this is all configured correctly

Posted on Jan 05, 2008


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I have a Marantz turntable, a Marantz CD player, an Eltax tape player and a Marantz amplifier with two Cambridge speakers, how do I assemble them into a stack system please ? Thank you

All the sources, turntable, CD player and tape unit have an output. These should go in the input of the amplifier with the same name. Then only the Tape player, could have an input, for recording music or whatever. For that input, your amplifier should have an tape out. All these should be connected with cables with tulip plugs, like these.

Use the white for left on everything and red for right.
If one of the devices as a different connector, find a cable for audio, with on one end the tulip plugs and on the other end the fitting plug.
Then the output of the power amplifier it should say output or LS, can be connected with 2 wires going to the speakers.
For this the same counts, although it is difficult to see when you use electrical wires in one colour. What comes out red on he amp, should go on the same screw connector on the speaker. Just to avoid one speaker being out of phase. It will work, but could sound a little strange when the speakers are out of phase.
With the correct model names added, perhaps we could have given a more accurate answer.

Please don't test the system or switch on, with the volume button to the max. Don't switch anything on an amplifier when the volume is high, or the setting is high. A short increase of the volume, during switching can, and has very often destroy(ed) the speakers.

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1 Answer

One side not working


the 2230 is a fine unit! There could be several things causing this problem, more than likely it could be dirty front controls which will require cleaning. It could be more serious problems such as pre-amp or main amp failures, dried up output coupling cap for the right channel. I would recommend having the unit serviced. These older vintage Marantz units are really special and deserve proper attention.


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I am thinking of replacing my now very old JVC AX 330 amplifier with a Marantz PM7003 amplifier and want to know if this is a suitable replacement in terms of power output etc.

You, sir, are a rare adherent to stereo-only electronics. Are you replacing it for cause (showing its age)? The PM7003 is only 2 x 70 watts like the JVC but it also has separable preamp/amps so you COULD upgrade or augment the power output with external amps and still control it all locally.

Of course, any current AVR's do that too and bring digital sources and multichannel audio to the mix for as little as the PM7703 may cost.

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1 Answer

Hello i have a marantz pm-47 amp that keeps blowing every time i plug in the power feed to the amp board i have changed the 2 caps on the board but still have the same problem i checked voltage for...

Hi mas_66,
Make sure that the fuse is the same rating with the old one.
If still symptom persist, I've suspected that your output IC is shorted.
You may hang this IC, then power up the unit.
Observe what will happen, if this cure the symptom then this is a clear indication that this IC is shorted and made the fuse blown while it is in the circuit board.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

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The symptom sounds like a feeback loop. As long as that indicator is showing near maximum output on one channel AVOID ATTACHING ANY SPEAKERS TO IT!!!! You'll cook the tweeters.

Turn it off and manually operate every control, knob and pushbutton throughout its range many times to wipe oxides away from their conductors.

Set all EQ controls to their midpoints and re-evaluate.

We don't know if it's an input or output problem yet. Does it do that with all inputs?

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You will have to use an amplifier to power the speakers from the cd player, the output on the CD player isn't enough. You will need to hook the CD player to the amplifier using the red and white wires, on the CD hook them to the OUT and on the amp hook them to the CD or Aux or Tape in. Then select that input on the amp and enjoy the music.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue.
If you need further assistance please comment to this post and I will try to help you further.

Thanks for using FixYa

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Can I remotely control speaker outputs on the Marantz PM 8003?

You need an 8 ohm stereo "L-pad"

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Marantz PM-34 Problem

Hi there

The part that you speak of is called the emitter stabilizer resistor. It is common to the output pair on one channel. You will find that the large "output" transistors mounted to the heat sink either side of this resistor will most probably be faulty.

Best not to run the amp at all whilst in this condition.

To be sure that you have an effective repair, you will need to change both these parts, and also the "driver" transistors that connect to the outputs. They too are in symmetrical positions close to the the output transistors. You should also check that the 3 legged resistor you mentioned is measuring its correct value, and check all other low value resistors in the output stage area to that channel.

If you are not familiar with repairing this sort of equipment, perhaps you can find a repair guy with some experience on audio equipment, then this work should be all he needs to do to repair the amp. I would also ask him to "blanket resolder" the output/bias stages and power regulator stages in the amp as problems with heat stressed cracked/failed soldering and dry joints often cause these amps to blow the output transistors.

BE SURE THAT THE CORRECT PARTS ONLY are used for the repairs. Different transistors could cause future problems with the amp. The parts can be obtained relatively easily from a marantz distributor(we can find one in a country near to you). OR if you can give me the markings to each of the parts you need, I can provide you with an international source to get them from.

The amp is decent HiFi, and worth repair. Happy to provide you any assitance I can, Good Luck


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Hi spanky

The pre power combination would be the preffered rig. Has better power output, and more bang for your buck visually with the extra amp to the rack. The meters look great too. If you can go for them, then, do it. I would :) Just let me know which unit you would like to run up and I will photoshop up a rear view to show you how to connect it together. .


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Marantz SR 7200

It is likely that the PA stage has developed an offset voltage in the output stage. The faulty amplifier channel can be found by progressively disconnecting the collectors of the of the power transistors until the protection fault disappears. Once the faulty channel is found the the cause of the offset has to be traced to the faulty transistor or resistor. Don't forget that if you can smell smoke or burning then there are likely to be components(esp transistors) that have been damaged by the fault.
I had a Luxman unit that destroyed 5 transistors in the output stage that was due to an open .5W resistor in the driver stage.
Good luck.

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