Don't know what model Reznor Waste Oil heater you have but I happen to own a Reznor RA235. 235,000 BTU. If there is no oil being pumped up I would first check to see that the filter isn't clogged where the oil sucks up from the tank. There should be a gauge on yours with different color codes as to when the filter must be changed or cleaned. I already had to replace the pump on my Reznor RA235 as the pump went bad a couple of years ago. You can tell if it is pumping or not. There is also a filter built right outside of the pump on mine and one up on top of the unit that need to be cleaned at times. The manual shows all of this.
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Re: oil burner/waste oil heater not firing
First check the oil heater element. the oil has to be heated to atomize it. check the air flow mix to the nozzle. if too much it won't atomize the oil, too little you'll get a stream out of it. change out the honeywell burner control
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You will have to find the black and white set that come from electric panel and you can use a meter to find that out. After you find which set it is then you can put those wires on the LINE side of the thermostat and the rest of the wires the 2 blacks and 2 whites will get connected to the load side. I would recommend turning the power off when you are connecting the wires and I also recommend calling a electrician so you don't get hurt or killed. Even if it costs you a few hundred dollars it's better than costing you your life.
Good luck and just call somebody that's licensed to do this kind of work and let them do it right and not burn your house down
I had a roofer install Master Flow PRO 3 and he did the initial wiring incorrectly. The black wire pairs were incorrectly connected and caused the fan to run 24-hours. I switched the black wires pairings and the fan shuts off if less than 100-degrees (the setting I chose) and comes on if more than 100-degrees. You may want to be sure that the black wire from the power source is connected to the black wire for the thermostat (black wire nearest the thermostat setting switch and closest to the power source wire). The black wire from the fan motor should be connected to the black wire closest to the fan motor's wire.
On the bottom of the disposal there is a small red reset switch. Push it in and see if it stays. Turn on switch and see what happens. If it hums or buzzes take a 1/4 inch allen wrench and insert it into opening in the center of the bottom. Turn wrench back and forth while running hot water through disposal to help clear any blockage. Turn on switch on and see if thats helped. Thank you.
Troubleshooting and Repair Furnaces with electronic ignition systems
may be much more efficient than their early counterparts, but they do it largely
through electronics. However, there are still some troubleshooting you can do
but fixing the problems can involve replacement of parts more so than repair or
PROBLEM: Furnace burner will not ignite
With a Hot Surface Ignition (HSI) system, if a gas hissing sound is
heard for about 7-10 seconds and the burners do not ignite, the furnace will go
into lockout mode.
To reset turn the furnace power switch off and back on and try again.
The switch is probably located on the side of the furnace. A reset button may
also be found on the solid state controller. If resetting fails again, proceed
Turn off power and gas to the furnace
Remove and check hot surface igniter being careful not to touch the heat
element. If it is cracked or damaged, replace the igniter.
PROBLEM: Furnace comes on for 7-10 seconds then turns off
Turn off power and gas to the furnace
Remove flame sensor from its bracket. Lightly clean the surface with fine
emery cloth and replace.
The problem may also lie in a bad ground or the the black and white wires
being reversed (reversed polarity) at the junction box or outlet powering the
The electronic ignition control module must ensure current flow through the
flame sensor to ground and if the polarity is reversed in the circuit there is
no voltage potential and the flame sensor does not work and closes the gas
If the black and white wires are connected correctly and the flame still
drops out, then the issue may be a bad ground. Using a volt-ohm meter, measure
between the white wire and the ground wire to be sure you have no voltage.
The display will indicate CHECK STAT if one of the following occurs. • One of the buttons is stuck down or in. Check buttons, make sure nothing is pushing them in. • The thermostat sensor is not functioning. If using a remote sensor, check connections, wiring and power. • The humidity sensor is not functioning. After checking the above, press PROGRAM RUN to reset the display. If this does not clear the display, disconnect power and remove the batteries for five minutes.If these checks fail to solve the problem, the thermostat should be replaced.
Disconnect power from unit. Disconnect ground. Reconnect ground and make sure it is a good ground check hot and nutural to ground and should be line (110 to 120 V) on line (Black to bare) and 0-4 (with a electronic Volt Ohm Meter) White to bare. And again 110 to 120V from Black to White. Reconnect and if ground is stripped make new ground point with new screw. Modern electronics is required to have a good ground and without one readings like yours can freeze. If this dosnt work the board going to the display is most likely broken.
When replacing the board always ground your self before removing the board from the box and plastic bag. This will drain off and static buildup and prevent discharge across the board. (not as much a problem in humid or warm weather).
The Black Wires from the md26 are your load(the heater) and the red lines are your line(power). The lines are also paired up on the thermostat with a red and black on the left and are red and black on the right. In the actual heater connect the black to the black wire and the white to the white and connect the grounds. In the thermostat connect the black from the heater to left side black( remember there are pairs left(black, red) right (black, red) and the white to the right side black connect the black from your power to the left side red and the white from your power to the right side red. Should be ready to go.
E701 is reported when the controller is unable to communicate with the IOT(image output terminal).The following check might save some further troubles. 1.If the the controller is pretag 2,connect a terminator to the SCSI port marked "HOST" 2.Disconnect the IOT,power up the controller,press the reset switch on the controller board and allow reset cycle to complete,power down,reconnect,insert floppy firmware,power up. 3.Down grade to firmware 2.7 4.Check PSU +5V and +12V at the pcb. 5.Check HD drive present on the config printout. 6.Check reset switch if not stuck in on controller. 7.Check controller to IOT cable in good condition. 8.Replaced the flash SIMMs And lastly if all the above fail to cure the fault then replaced the controller board.