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Oil burner/waste oil heater not firing

Reset was stuck in so I replaced that switch. still not working. has power on black. white is good.thermostat has power. cad is good. no power to orange. don't know what else to check.

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Don't know what model Reznor Waste Oil heater you have but I happen to own a Reznor RA235. 235,000 BTU. If there is no oil being pumped up I would first check to see that the filter isn't clogged where the oil sucks up from the tank. There should be a gauge on yours with different color codes as to when the filter must be changed or cleaned. I already had to replace the pump on my Reznor RA235 as the pump went bad a couple of years ago. You can tell if it is pumping or not. There is also a filter built right outside of the pump on mine and one up on top of the unit that need to be cleaned at times. The manual shows all of this.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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We have a Reznor oil fired heater that fires but will not induce oil any ideas ?

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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First check the oil heater element. the oil has to be heated to atomize it. check the air flow mix to the nozzle. if too much it won't atomize the oil, too little you'll get a stream out of it. change out the honeywell burner control

Posted on Jan 05, 2008

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I have an oil fired aga the oil will not come throw to the burner

see the following steps:
f the burner doesn't run, set the thermostat a few degrees higher than normal to see if it comes on. If it still doesn't come on, check switches, and breakers and fuses (see the Electrical Service Panel Fix-It Guide). If the unit has a reset button, press it. Also oil the motor at any oil ports (see below). If the unit doesn't want to start and run, first check the c to make sure that the ignition is getting power. If there is power, check the built-in safety controls (see below) that may turn the system off if they perceive problems.
If the burner cycles too often, replace the filter (see below). Also, oil and adjust the blower (see the Forced-Air Distribution Fix-It Guide).
If the burner runs but won't fire, make sure the oil valves are open and that there's oil in the tank. Check the tank level with a clean stick.
If the burner smokes or squeals, shut off the unit, let it cool, and fill the oil cups. Recheck them after the motor has run for an hour.
If the chimney smokes even after the flue has warmed up, the unit is wasting fuel; call for professional repair.
Safety Controls
Oil furnaces and other heat systems include safety devices that monitor operation and turn off the unit if something goes wrong. In some cases, the safety device can be the problem.
If you encounter an operating problem with an oil furnace, first reset the safety and try again.
If the burner kicks off again, shut off all power at the electrical service panel ; the burner motor and ignition may be protected by separate fuses or breakers.
If the sensor has a photocell, wipe it with a clean rag or tissue and see if the furnace starts.
If the safety is a stack switch mounted on the flue, remove the screw holding the unit to the stack, slide it out, and wipe off the sensor.
If the furnace won't start after three tries, seek professional assistance. Unburned oil can accumulate in the combustion chamber and "flash back."


Jul 31, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I bought the thermostat used,I need the hook up diagram to install it on my oil fired heating system,which presently has an older controll,I just want to up grade to the T860002028.

If you just have oil heat then you will have two possibly three wires, but if there is four no problem. R red, W usually white. this is for two wires. if your wires are not colored just connect them to R and W.
Three wires red to R, White to W, Green to G, the black to C.
Red wire is power off the controller, white is power to the burner control, green is the fan relay if you have one, black is common to the fan relay power supply. Good luck

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1 Answer

Main burner will not lite. Jumped "TH" wires on

Follow the wire down to the front of the cabinet and you should find a black section about two inches long. Jump past this and see if it fires. This is a wax roll out switch. If the fire comes out the front of the box this switch will melt and shut the heater down. If the black is loose it's probably OK. If it is tight on the wire it has gone bad.
This protects the rest of the heater from flame roll out so if it has gone bad you need to check for the reason it did.

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We have a Triton Minimax 200 heater that has a pilot light, but can't get the burners to light. We have checked all the wiring and everything looks good. What else could be caqusing it not to work?

This will be in the safty circut. (on off, thermostat, pre switch, high limits, roll out switch,) Most often the roll out sw. a small piece of wire covered in a black sleeve as the wire runs along the bottom of the cabnet face just above the burners. This a switch cased in wax and if the fire rolls out the wax meltd and the heater shuts down If the blach cover is loose then it is probally OK. If it is shrunk tight on the wire it has probally gone bad. If so you need to find why the fire is rolling out before you replace it or it will just go bad again.
The other big one will be water pressure often easly fixed by cleaning baskets or the filter. If your pressure is high or low on the filter this will be the place to look. good luck.

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Startup cycle goes fine. All lights(power, pressure, thermostat, and heater) sequence correctly. After ignition, heater fires up(seen through viewing window) but then blows out 15 seconds later when fan...

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