My GE Profile JGBP79 gas stove shuts off after 1- 2 hrs. of cooki

SOURCE: cleaning and care for my GE Profile stovetop

The one thing I don't suggest is using the Ceramabryte product the dealer left with us. It leaves a greasy film. When I get ready to clean my black GE Profile, I pull off the controls to wash separately. Then I lift off the grates, take a single-edge razor blade to scrape anything stuck on (it doesn't scratch), then I use baking soda and scrub and scrub with lots of paper towels. Then I start cleaning off the baking soda with lots and lots more paper towels. There is still a film, but at least it's not greasy. At this point I grab some more dry paper towels, pour on a 3' puddle of rubbing alcohol and wipe it all over the stove top and front. You may have to do this twice. Then, if I don't turn on the hood light's brightest setting, it really doesn't look too bad. I have to do this at least once a week, as I have never had a stove that got so dirty so fast and was such a pain to clean.

FYI, I would never buy another of these stoves. Besides the cleaning issue, there is the fact of having to replace the igniter (glow plug?) twice in the first four years. My old, bottom-of-the line Magic Chef went 25 years with the first replacement not coming until it was about 15 years old. Also, the broiler is unimpressive and steaks, etc., just sort of steam. Can't get a really good crust going. It's a slide-in and the top is very narrow, front to back, because of the slanted control panel on the front, and so you really can't put two large pots or pans on one side. Let's see....oh yes, I ordered the unglazed grates for safety reasons and it came with the procelain glaze. Those were replaced free of charge, though I had to go pick them up. Then the first set of unglazed grates began to rust about six months into use, so had to be replaced (again, no charge at least). Recently I noticed that the inside walls of the oven, where the racks slide, are starting to rust. Finally, the burners are difficult to calibrate, which I really notice when I try to cook rice, which comes out right about 50% of the time.

Now, on top of all this, I have to worry about the glass door exploding?!?! Should I ban my grandchildren from the kitchen? Has anyone from Consumer Reports seen this website?

SOURCE: Bake mode will not work

Is the bake igniter working ? There are two igniters one for bake and one for broil My guess is that the bake igniter is bad and only the broil igniter is working. part #WB2X9154.

SOURCE: GE profile spectra gas stove displays 'locked

You might try to reset the unit by unplugging it. Plug it back in, reset the clock & try it again. Hope that helps.

SOURCE: display panel on stove not working properly, cannot use the oven

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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