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Kenmore Washer Spin Issue - Need help troubleshooting

Model:
Kenmore 70 Series (Top load, Direct drive)
Model 110 24722300
Serial CP3801719
Approximately 3.5 years old; relatively light usage
Issue:
The drum recently stopped spinning during spin cycle. All other functions seem normal: timer/electric, draining, agitating, etc.

- I've checked the lid switch (jumpered the power with case off)
- the clutch operates/turns during spin operation
- the pump removes water during spin operation
- the motor coupling appears to be intact and operational
- there is no sign of oil, fluid, or water leaks around any components
- there are no metal or plastic filings present
- there is nothing caught in or between the tub
- the drive block appears intact (if I am looking at the right part)

I am assuming I have a clutch or brake issue. The brake does not appear to disengage during spin (although I can still rotate the tub manually). I rubbed a small amount of silicon lube on the brake drum, but it didn't appear to help.

I've removed the outer case (obviously), the agitator, the pump, and the motor.

Any guidance would be appreciated before I completely (or unnecessarily)disassemble the machine.


Thanks much,
Stacy

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  • roanoke Jan 04, 2008

    It successfully washed the most recent load (fill, agitate, rinse, drain), but it did not spin at the end of the cycle... and left the load quite wet of course.

  • LeoLeon Apr 28, 2008

    Washer won't spin at all to spin dry the clothes

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Take it back to the wash cycle and fill it and see if it washes. Then reply and let us know please do not rate us til we are finished.

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

  • robert samples Jan 04, 2008

    bud if you gone that far you have all ready disabled it pretty far lol .you don't have a wig wag switch your washer is to new for that but they are real he's not kidding you.it sounds to me like your problem is in your spin tube you will need to pull your tyranny if you have checked everything you have stated here lean the washer back against the the wall as much as you can and after pulling the motor and all the other stuff then take the four bolts out of the tyranny after removing the agitator and stuff then slide the tyranny out and check the plastic coupling on the spring. im not sure right now and im a real tech and i will hang with you don't rate till were done are you sure you did the lid switch as that sounds good to me i need to know the age of the washer we will go from there and we will fix it im a pro the washer is built by whirlpool and is a Good washer lets chat before you get to deep ok

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Check the coils on the wig-gag. Its a couple of bars that engage the spin drive or the wash drive. If you look at the machine when its running you will see it moving back and forth, hence the name. If the coil engages the spin cam, but it still will not spin then the tranny is your next culprit.

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

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Hi, I have the same machine and same problem and I fixed it this morning I felt something with my hand at the bottom of the drum. It was a nail that went diagonaly insibe one of the drum holes right under the outer surface of the spinnner, right now it is working perfectly.

Posted on Jun 05, 2009

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load, direct drive washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Are you sure that you plugged the Lid Switch back in when you put the cabinet back on??

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The model number on top load washers is usually found by lifting the lid and looking above the tub.

The Fixya numbers are Stock Numbers.

Since basic top load direct drive, top load electronic and front load washers are very different, the actual Model Numbers are necessary to correctly diagnose the problem.


Slipping on direct drive washers is usually caused by a damaged / broken Motor Coupler or clutch.

If yours is a direct drive machine, see the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=5666a1d539401da8aec3c1514f2bc0f9

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First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
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Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

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https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If its' been sitting in a damp garage for 10 years, I'd pull the cabinet and start by testing the electrical components to and through the motor. It's likely that one or more of the connections has rusted over time.

See the following for how to release the console and pull the cabinet in order to get to the motor and wiring:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_index.php?newsPath=16

I'd also use the Service Manual tests for the timer and other console switches.


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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
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Enter your model number (Usually a number such as 110.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts. You should be able to find the model number on the cabinet after lifting the lid.

If you cannot hear the motor turning at all, the problem points to one of a few places.

1. The timer. Check to see if it is moving at all.

2. The timer motor, this drives the timer.

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Following is the Whirlpool PDF on top load, direct drive washers with a troubleshooting section and sections on testing components.

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