Question about Jensen 100W x 4 Amplifier KA5 Car Audio Amplifier

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Missing the speaker wiring

We didn't get the wiring connections from the car that was in a accident. we were trying to put it in another car. is there somewhere that we could that part that goes in the back of the stero for a vrcd400-sdu

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Re: missing the speaker wiring

Ya, usually you wont get that part in any outlet. its better you try for it in a junk yard or somethin lik tht.

Posted on Jan 06, 2008

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I had a powered sub surround unit given to me by my uncle because he says it didn't work for him. After some initial power and fuse trouble shooting I opened it up to reveal that all wires were...

look on the manufacture website for a manual or so. so u can see where all the wires connect or the amplifier itself may have a number u can search online and find pictures. but from watching the picture there are 2 wires red and black those two should be the wires connecting to the speaker.

Sep 23, 2013 | Car Amplifiers

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Tc 8001 red light

on some amps there is a duel light. red and green usually. red means it is in protect mode or you didn't hook up your remote wire. if in protect mode, it could mean a number of things. did you hook it up with speakers and everything?

Mar 01, 2012 | MTX Thunder® TC8001 Car Amp

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How do I wire the system

You would require an amplifier wiring kit which will contain all the wires to get power and signal to your amplifier; six feet of 14-gauge speaker wire for the subwoofers. Your speakers should have come with their own speaker wires.

The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire.

The complete installation process is as follows


Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery first and foremost. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.


Install your new speakers. Start by removing the paneling of the speaker enclosure. Unscrew and disconnect the old speaker.

Ideally the speaker wire will be connected to the old speakers with a metal clip that can then slide right on to your new ones. If not, cut the wire off the old speakers, strip about half an inch of it, then cut the last 6 inches or so off the speaker wire that came with your speakers so you have the proper connectors with a little wire attached, strip a half inch of those wires and twist connect them to the existing speaker wire. Bend the twists so they are in-line with the wire and wrap each connection in electrical tape so no wire is showing to protect them.

Attach the connectors to your new speaker. Make sure to connect the negative wire (-/black) to the negative terminal on the speaker and the positive wire (+/red or white) to the positive one. Screw the speaker in place. If you have component speakers, and therefore a crossover, make sure the crossover is secured in the speaker compartment so that it does not bounce around while you drive.

Wait to put the speaker enclosures back together until you have installed the head unit.


Follow the instructions you got for removing whatever part of the dash covers it and take out your existing head unit. Connect the car stereo wire harness to the connector that was attached to your old radio and attach the other end to your new one. Connect the antenna cable (the single wire with the big plug at the end) to your new head unit as well.

If the speaker wires are separate from the harness connect them using the method of stripping, twisting, and taping described above. Do this one at a time or use masking tape to label the wire to avoid confusion. If you are having trouble figuring out which wires go to which speaker or which is positive and negative read the tip at the bottom of this section.

Do not put your new head unit into the dash yet-you still need to connect the amplifier to it. Put the speaker enclosures back together now.


Attach the thick positive (+/red) power cable for your amplifier to the connector on positive terminal of your battery. The kit you purchased should have come with an o-ring on one end of the wire (you may have to crimp it on yourself, if so do it on the end with the fuse), this ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery.


Put the fuse in the fuse holder.


Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the drivers side) and along to the back of the car where your amp is. It is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car, you never want the power cable to come near any speaker wires. At the same time run the remote on wire (a really thin wire from the amplifier wiring kit), through the dash where the head unit will sit, along with the power cable to the amp.


On the other side of the car run the RCA signal cable through the dash from the head unit to the amp (it's a pair of wires together with connectors on each end).


In the back of the car pick exactly where your amp and subwoofers are going to go. Part of choosing this is that the thick black ground cable (negative) needs to have a place to connect to the metal frame of your car. This should be as short as possible, you never want the ground cable to be longer than 3 feet.


Find a good screw or bolt, take if off and sandpaper the metal surface that the o-ring will make contact with, then screw it down tightly.


Attach the RCA signal cable and the remote on cable to your head unit and attach the power, ground, RCA signal, and remote on wires to your amp.


If you have not already done so, place your subwoofer box in the trunk and attach your amplifier to it if that is what you are doing. If you are not going to screw your amp to the subwoofer box then it must be secured to something else.


Attach the 14-gauge speaker wires to the left and right channels of the amplifier and to the speaker connectors of the subwoofer box.


Mount your head unit into the dash. Double check all of the connections on the back of it to make sure they are secure. Then slide your head unit into its slot in the dash and screw it securely in place. Before you re-attach the dash, reconnect the ground (negative) cable to your car battery and turn the stereo on and move around the car listening to each speaker to make sure everything is working properly. Then put the dash back on. You are all done!

Hope this helps


Oct 08, 2010 | Jensen XA2250 Car Audio Amplifier

2 Answers

Protection light comes on

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Dou .A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. protection-light-comes-lv2kkrmxrai4iihdvw4m3np2-2-0.jpg

Jun 14, 2009 | Nitro BMW-482 Car Audio Amplifier

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Install kicker ix254 into a Land Rover Discovery

that wire probs is your rem wire hook it up and try er out john

Apr 19, 2009 | Kicker IX254 Car Audio Amplifier

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Shorted a speaker wire together

Check the fuse. If its not blown rewire the ground to bare metal.  make sure the power wire is the right gauge aand connected right

Jul 16, 2008 | Power Acoustik LT-980/2 Car Audio...

1 Answer

Missing Plugs

I have a mbquartz 2500raa. If its a bridgable amp take each wire individualy and sauder each wire at the end into a ring large enough to fit around the plug ti area. When connected if sound is produced sauder each looped wire end to the plug area. Make sure to cover each wire with electrical tape so as to keep from arcking this is what i did with mine when i lost the plug.

Dec 28, 2007 | MB Quart Reference RAA4200 Car Audio...

1 Answer

JL 500/1

It sounds like you have a broken output filter inductor in the amplifier. You should be aware that the speaker outputs of the amp are biased at ~40v DC and can give a good shock if you touch the speaker wire while you're grounded (touching the body of the vehicle).


When you connected the speaker as you did, I would have expected the speaker to move in or out and remain there while the wire was connected to the housing of the amp. I'll assume that the amp was screwed down to the chassis of the vehicle. If it wasn't, you may have more than one problem.

Oct 18, 2007 | Jl Audio 300/4 Car Audio Amplifier

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