How do I remove the Inlet and Outlet PVC pipes attached to the Volute? They may be sealed with a sealant or glue and am not sure if I need to remove the Volute bolts first.

Hi again Joe

Plumbing trouble now? The pipes with some type of glue are indeed glued with PVC Pipe Cement. It melts seals and glues the pipes together. The only way to to cut and put in a joined, once again glued. Normally you only undo the threaded connector under the sink waste, and the water trap that is attached to it.

If it's pvc pipe, you'll need to be sure you've used pic pipe glue(blue, consistency of syrup) you'll add a coat of it inside the female end of your pipes, then insert the pvc you're connecting to and it should seal that connection.
If it's that black hose like tubing, you can do the same thing and seal the connection with the glue. Generally the flexible tubing is mainly for drip lines in flower beds, any sprinkler lines going underground should be PVC.
You may want to add a water pressure regulator to control that as well. You can get them at Home Depot. You'll place it just before your sprinkler system valve. In this order: There should be a water line from the street for your house, there you'll add the regulator, which will connect to the valve for your irrigation water and that gets connected to your sprinkler line. Be sure each connection is sealed with the blue glue and excess is wiped clean, and any end caps are sealed. You should now have water hitting the regulator before hitting the valve.

if you need the impeller and volute you also need seals sounds like it ran without the filter pump on might be better buying a new pump when they get hot they distorte and will leak also PVC pipe is probably distorted youll have to replace the distorted pipe also

CTS 2003-2005 Removal Procedure...
3.2L Engines

1. Drain the cooling system.
   
2. Remove the radiator inlet hose from the coolant outlet pipe
   
3. Remove the bolt securing the oil level indicator tube, coolant outlet pipe and engine front lifting bracket from the cylinder head.
   
4. Remove the coolant outlet pipe from the thermostat housing.
   
5. Remove the O-ring seals from the coolant outlet pipe. Discard the O-rings.
   
6. Remove the intake manifold.
   
7. Remove the thermostat housing bolts (1) (image 1 attached)
   
8. Remove the thermostat housing with thermostat (2), from the engine (image 1 attached).
   
9. Remove and discard the seal ring.
   
10. Remove the thermostat from the thermostat housing (image 2 attached).

To install:

1. Install the thermostat into the thermostat housing.
   
2. Install a new seal ring.
   
3. Position the thermostat housing with thermostat, to the engine.
   
4. Install the thermostat housing bolts and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
   
5. Install the intake manifold.
   
6. Lubricate 2 new O-ring seals with coolant.
   
7. Install the new O-ring seals around the coolant outlet pipe grooves.
   
8. Insert the coolant outlet pipe (3) into the thermostat housing.
   
9. Install the bolt securing the oil level indicator tube, coolant outlet pipe and engine front lifting bracket to the cylinder head and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
   
10. Connect the radiator inlet hose to the coolant outlet pipe.
    
11. Fill the cooling system.

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Image 2

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They are soldered on with a propane torch kit..

You can build a homemade soot trap like what oil burner service reps use. Please refer to the drawing. You start with a widely availabe bucket with an airtight lid (Home Depot sells one in their trademark orange color for example). Along with the bucket, you will need about 30 inches of PVC pipe - ideally you will get the diameter that matches your vacuum cleaner hose attachment. "Schedule 40" PVC pipe will work fine. This refers to the less expensive thickness of pipe- any home improvement store rep can help you with this, and if you bring in your hose and explain what you need to do they will gladly help you out! Finally, you will need a tube of silicone RTV sealant. Cut two holes matching the size of your PVC pipe into the lid of your bucket, and cut the pipe into two sections- one that will sit three to four inches from the bottom of the bucket, and one that will sit one or two inches below the lid. Put them into position and use the RTV sealant to hold them in place and also provide an air-tight seal. On the lid, label the side that has the long pipe INLET and the side with the short pipe TO VACUUM. This is CRITICAL so make sure you do it! Labels, paint, marker, crayon- whatever. Label them NOW!

Finally, you need a section of flexible plastic hose to connect your trap to your vacuum. Six to eight feet should work fine. You will have to be creative to make sure the connection between your new trap and vacuum are air-tight, but IMHO this adds a little adventure to the project... you want something easy to attach and remove, and by no means do you want to do anything that prevents you from taking your new trap off and using your vacuum normally. Hardware stores are bursting with all sorts of adapters and stuff! The same goes for the inlet side of your trap, but hopefully you matched the pipe up to your pickup hose to where it makes a nice tight fit and works without adapters.

After the RTV cures (about 24 hours) and you are satisfied that everything is in order, you are ready to use your soot/dust/fur trap! Fill the bucket about 1/3rd of the way up with water. Make sure that the long end of pipe is under water by about 2 inches. It is VERY IMPORTANT that the end that goes underwater (The INLET) is hooked to your pick-up attachment.... You should have labeled it INLET already.

The whole idea is that whatever your vacuum sucks up gets pulled underwater first, trapping it before it gets near the vacuum cleaner. It has worked for decades for oil burner service techs to keep furnace soot out of their vacuums, which would be destroyed after one or two uses otherwise.This will easily trap dog hair and talcum powder. Be forewarned that inside the bucket it will get very messy and it is vital that you clean it after every use.

Good Luck!

if it is just a vent pipe and your sure that is what it is, you can acctually just sink two screws into the pipe. I would not use glue as it has a much lower flash point then the pvc. you could also see if there is enough flex in the pipe to just push it over.

Get a screwdriver (or something strong like that) that is the diameter of the pipe only. Use a torch to heat it up and then press it into the pvc...might take a couple times to get a good indent, and then turn....it is threaded 3/4" pvc....some installers will actually glue this fitting in the pump - which render it unuseable in this situation....

You need to clean the pvc, prime it and reglue it and this should take care of your problem

most of those systems are plumbed with PVC, but some do use flex throughout the home...
If yours is PVC, visit your nutone dealer and get a new outlet/elbow.
Trim the old elbow off with a drywall saw or other small saw (if you have a sawsall, that is fine) and glue the new one in
if it is flex tubing, it's easier; the elbow threads on. just be sure to hold the tubing so it doesn't drop down,