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Problem for Woods 201 cu. ft. Upright Freezer V2003RW3
What is the ideal setting after i defrost it cause
Solution #1
posted on Nov 02, 2009
The manufacturer gives you little latitude on temperature settings of a freezer. You can move the control a lot yet change the temp very little.
Frosting too quickly usually means air is getting into the machine.
1. Check the door for being warped. and not closing on all 4 sides.
2. Check the gasket and see if it is seating properly all 4 sides, especially the bottom, and corners.
3. If the gasket needs replaced, as a rule, the appliance parts house that sells it to you will explain how to do it. Those instructions must be followed exactly.
P.S. Make sure the drain plug in the bottom interior is in place, to prevent air from entering there. As well,
When defrosting, to get you off to a good start.
1. Shut down the machine, remove all food and completely defrost and dry the shelves.
2. Before starting, reinstall all your food and packages.
3. Start machine. Close the door and stay out of the machine for at least 8 hours and better yet overnight if possible.
Frosting too quickly usually means air is getting into the machine.
1. Check the door for being warped. and not closing on all 4 sides.
2. Check the gasket and see if it is seating properly all 4 sides, especially the bottom, and corners.
3. If the gasket needs replaced, as a rule, the appliance parts house that sells it to you will explain how to do it. Those instructions must be followed exactly.
P.S. Make sure the drain plug in the bottom interior is in place, to prevent air from entering there. As well,
When defrosting, to get you off to a good start.
1. Shut down the machine, remove all food and completely defrost and dry the shelves.
2. Before starting, reinstall all your food and packages.
3. Start machine. Close the door and stay out of the machine for at least 8 hours and better yet overnight if possible.
Yes
No
Solution #2
posted on Nov 02, 2009
It shouldn't frost up that quick at any setting. If it is a automatic defrost system then something is wrong with it. If the door seals are not sealing good that will cause it to frost up quicker. See if the seal will hold a dollar bill snuggly all the way around.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Yes
No
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