Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer

3 Answers

High Spin problems -Whirlpool top load - LSB6300LWO

When my washer engages in high spin at the end of the cycle it gets violently off-balance. It is not the agitator and I've replaced the balancing spring and the two springs below the tub. It doesn't matter the load - it always does this. I can't figure out what the problem is. The balance ring has fluid in it and everything looks in good shape. any ideas??? I've been working on this for 3 months and nothing I've done has solved this issue.

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  • GSmith113 Jan 04, 2008

    I've also checked balancing legs and floor level.

  • GSmith113 Jan 05, 2008

    the washer is level and it is not a load-balance issue. it will make this violent rotation with a full load or with nothing but water in it. Also, the washer and floor are level.

    the above solution does not apply because the washer continues the cycle (high spin) although it must be manually stopped to prevent damage to it and surrounding objects. The washer does not suddenly stop without manual interupption. It only does this in the spin cycle, not agitation.

  • GSmith113 Jan 05, 2008

    posted by GSmith113 on Jan 04, 2008Report abuse


    When my washer engages in high spin at the end of the cycle it gets violently off-balance. It is not the agitator and I've replaced the balancing spring and the two springs below the tub. It doesn't matter the load - it always does this. I can't figure out what the problem is. The balance ring has fluid in it and everything looks in good shape. any ideas??? I've been working on this for 3 months and nothing I've done has solved this issue.

    Comment by GSmith113, posted on Jan 04, 2008
    I've also checked balancing legs and floor level.
    Comment by GSmith113, posted on Jan 05, 2008
    the washer is level and it is not a load-balance issue. it will make this violent rotation with a full load or with nothing but water in it. Also, the washer and floor are level.

    the above solution does not apply because the washer continues the cycle (high spin) although it must be manually stopped to prevent damage to it and surrounding objects. The washer does not suddenly stop without manual interupption. It only does this in the spin cycle, not agitation

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Make sure the drum is empty put it on a program any one when the water is full and the drum starts to go round tune off the machine then put the program on the spin program to see if it is your pump some times or a lot of the time pumps on the machines time out or run relay slow that will make the machine run violently you probably need a 35w or a 42w pump so that way the water will pump out quicker and will stop the machine from running away. this should stop the problem.

Posted on Jan 05, 2008

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The most common cause is an unbalanced wash load. Open the lid and when it comes to a stop, redistribute the clothing to balance the weight. Heavy loads, especially things like comforters, are more likely to become unbalanced than small loads. If you do a lot of heavy loads, you should consider a heavy duty/large capacity washer when it comes time to replace your current unit.

A washer must be level both from side to side as well as from front to back. Washing machines have adjustable feet to enable you to level them. See our article on how to level your washing machine.
The outer tub is supported by springs, pistons or counterweights to keep it balanced. The weight of all that water in a wash load requires a powerful balancing mechanism. If the balancing system becomes detached from one or more points, it will not be able to balance the load properly. Furthermore, even if everything appears to be in place, as the appliance ages, the springs or pistons may begin to wear out and not support as much weigh as needed.

Unplug the washer and open the cabinet. Because of the variety of balancing mechanisms, you will have to inspect your machine to determine how it is balanced. Once you discover the mechanism, then inspect it for integrity. In the case of old parts that appear to be in working order, you may not be able to tell if they need to be replaced. They may be weak but appear to be in good condition. If no other solution resolves the problem, then replacing the balancing springs or other moving support parts may be called for.

Another common cause for excessive movement is the floor on which the washer rests. The washer is heavy and even more so when filled with water. Any floor, other than a concrete slab, will tend to pick up and amplify the vibrations from the machine.
There are a couple things you can try. If you have access to the joists under the floor, you may be able to beef up the support. Another thing to try is placing a large sheet of plywood under the washer. It should be 3/4" or even 1" thick and as large as possible to distribute the weight. Use a sheet big enough for both the washer and dryer to sit on. If possible fasten the plywood to the existing floor.

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

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I think washer's basket is stopping too suddenly at the end of spin.

Posted on Jan 04, 2008

  • dewan nafees ahmed Jan 04, 2008

    this solution was taken from this link.
    see if you understand anything from it

    If your washer stops spinning violently like I'm describing,
    within a second or two, you can cure it yourself (if it's not
    repaired, it can also cause serious damage to suspension
    components).

    Pickup a small tube of high temperature silicone-based
    grease from your local auto parts store. 'Sil-Glyde' is one
    common brand that I've used for many purposes over the
    years. A very handy grease to use around rubber components
    that petroleum lubes would attack. This is sold as automotive
    brake caliper lube, and if you ask for a small amount of
    that, they'll know what you mean. Buy the smallest amount
    available - you only need a tiny 'dab' on the end of a small
    screwdriver.

    Pull the washer's cabinet off (see note at the end of this
    article) and you'll see the chrome clutch drum, right above
    the transmission. Just above that is another, larger drum,
    and this one's the brake drum. On most, you'll see a foam
    'rubber band' noise dampener around it.

    Put a 1/4 inch 'dab' of silicone grease on the end of a small
    screwdriver (I use the pen-sized one carried in my shirt
    pocket), and look up into this brake drum.

    You'll want to insert the screwdriver between the brake coil
    spring and the inside of the drum. Apply the grease to the
    inside of the brake drum (the drum can be rotated by hand
    to bring this spring around).

    Be sure you're putting this into the UPPER drum (brake),
    and NOT the clutch drum, which is below it, and chrome in
    color. I've included a picture of the two drums in the online
    version of this article. You'll find that here:
    http://www.DavesRepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYdd...

    It would be very hard to put grease on the clutch linings
    inside the lower clutch drum, but I mention the possibility
    just in case there's a 'Tim Allen' type (like my big brother)
    out there who might take the 'more is better' approach .

    That's it! Solves the brake lockup problem, and it doesn't
    come back! No pulling the motor, gearcase, pump - or any
    of that fun stuff like I used to! As my 15 year old daughter
    would say, 'sweet!'.

    Note: In the interest of keeping this issue as short as
    possible, I didn't include directions for removing the washer
    cabinet. You'll find those in the instructions for replacing
    the drive coupler in these washers, at:
    http://www.DavesRepair.com/DIYhelp/DIY28... ;

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