Question about Toshiba TP50H50 50" Rear Projection Television

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Vertical Collapse Then the TV picture started to go out. I would tap the side and it would come back on then after a short while that would not work. The picture finally went out. I paid a repair guy to come and look at it, he told me it was  a vertical collapse. How do I fix that?

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Re: Vertical Collapse

Considering that tapping the side will make it come back again. You may look at the possibilty of having a bad solder joint (cold solder joint. Which happens when the solder is not at the correct temp when it was let to cool. and thus has tiny cracks in it. after years of use the cracks turn into larger cracks and the connection is breached.

Take a solder iron and do a remelt on all the solder joints involved in the vertical circuit. including the likely problem.. the vetical coil..

Posted on Jan 15, 2008

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Re: Vertical Collapse

Genrally vertical collapse indicates failure of virtical ic. or related components

Posted on Jan 03, 2008

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Picture bottom half only

Hello Gordon ok the problem that your tv set is having is coming from the vertical circuit which either is defective or has a faulty IC vertical amplifier, lets try something tap the side of the tv set if the picture goes back to normal than this is bad soldering on that circuit if not than the problem lies in a component that is defective and has to be replaced.What i would suggest is to have a tech come out and service your tv set this is not an expensive repair most of the time it is just bad soldering on the vertical deflection circuit and this could be repaired in minutes thank you hope this helps.

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4 Answers

Toshiba vertical collapse t.v. picture tube type A68LUW696X01

Hello Podman6,

Does the fault come on and off when you tap the case/cabinet of the TV? If so, then this is a dry joint/cold solder somewhere on the mainboard.
If you are are not qualified, do not take the cover off.
Look for a "largish" aluminium heatsink, located probably near the middle of the PCB. (It may be on the right hand side.)
With the cover off & an image showing on the TV, tap the heatsink with the "handle" of a screwdriver. Search for the most sensitive heatsink. Disconnect the power look closely at the other side of the most sensitive heatsink & you will probably find a "dry jointed" I.C.

If your set has an IC.501, look for a small capacitor near this IC./it will be 1 uf/50v or 2.2 uf/50v. You can make out which are faulty, because their caps will be swollen on top. Here's a sample pic (not same model):
Check the specifications of the faulty capacitors, and get the replacements from your local electronics shop. If you are comfortable with this, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to G-E-N-T-L-Y pull out the defunct capacitors. Once that is done, solder in the new capacitors carefully. If are unsure how to do this, try to get a friend who knows how to do this kinda stuff do it for you, or get a qualified technician. Warning: If you do not have a background in electronics repair, or are inexperienced, get a qualified technician to do it for you.

REMEMBER there are very dangerous voltages inside a TV that can KILL. Be sure to work SAFE when dealing with electricity. DISCONNECT THE POWER BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING.


Hope that helps, and thank you for using FixYa!


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1 Answer

Vertical amplifier?

Your right, it's called "Vertical Collapse", it's caused by the vertical output IC, which may be dry jointed or failed, try applying new solder to it if you can, if that does not work, you will need to replace the IC. A simple test to test for dry joints (where the solder is cracking and not causing proper connection from the pins to the board). If you give the unit a bit of a hit you may see the picture return to normal... don't do this too often as you can make more damage.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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You most likely don't need to replace a board. You should solder the bottom of the vertical output, it probably has bad connections. If you don't know where the vertical output is, give me a model number and i will give you a location, or take a picture of the deflection board and i will circle it.

Tim Nolan

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You could have a simple loose connection on the vertical output IC . Sometimes you can tap the board and the picture will fill out . Or the IC could have failed . It will also take out the resistor that supplys the voltage to the vertical IC . If you take it apart to work on be careful as you can be shocked if you don't know what your doing . Most repair shops charge $50 to $80 to repair . Good luck

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Phil, from your description it sounds like your convergence IC`s are about to fail, the intermittent off/on cycle is because as they heat up there drawing too much current, the bowed collapse tells me it`s the vertical convergence IC that`s the culprit. You need to get a tech out asap to fix this or they could short and take out the power supply as well and that`s just mooore money to fix it, hope this answers your question, BMW Rider

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