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HAS THE ALTERNATOR BEEN TESTED ? WITH THE MOTOR RUNNING, THE VOLTAGE READING SHOULD BE SOMEWHERE BETWEEN 13.60 & 14.80. IF THAT SEEMS O.K. WITH EVERYTHING IN THE CAR IN THE OFF POSITION, ALL THINGS UNPLUGGED FROM CIGARETTE LIGHTER SOCKETS, ALL DOOR, TRUNK SHUT, & IF THERE IS AN UNDERHOOD LIGHT UNPLUG IT OR REMOVE THE BULB. TAKE OFF THE NEGATIVE CABLE FROM THE BATTERY CONNECT A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT, ONE END TO THE NEG POST OF THE BATTERY, & THE OTHER END OF THE TEST LIGHT TO THE CABLE YOU JUST REMOVED. IF THE TEST LIGHT IS LIT, THERE IS A BATTERY DRAIN. UNPLUG ONE AT A TIME, ALL RELAYS & THE ALTERNATOR, TO ISOLATE THE DRAIN.
your drawing/pulling too many amps. Is it a mono(one speaker), two way(two speakers/can be briged to one), or a four way(four speakers/can be brigrd to two). don't put too many speaker to that one amp if it's only a mono, or a two way.
Is the problem much more noticeable when the car is at idle? Double check that Alternator output. 70 amps is not high output, and if the problem is especially noticeable at idle, it's probably due to the alternator putting out lower voltage( a common thing with alternators). Also, with that much draw from your sub amp, the wire from battery to alternator should be beefed up, as well as the ground wire from battery. You can make up your own cables by purchasing the wire to length and wire lugs at a local Welding shop, 4 gauge from alternator to battery is good. High output aftermarket Alternators shoot into the 200 amp range.
this is usually a problem with incorrect cabling you should check and see that all your cables are connected properly especially the ground cable thats what would normally give you a red light on your amp
never ask geeksquad about amps lol check your ground wire connection and push on sub do you feel scratching if so its blown sub also never turn an amp up all the way it starts pushin dc voltage witch a 200 watt amp can blow a 800 watt sub dc voltage is not good for subs also up all the way can burn out the internal battery in the amp lets hope thats not it just make sure ground is good protection light means that the amp has power but a connection is not bien made sum where to complete the circut
Start removing wires from the amp, one by one (except for the +12V, Ground, and remote) until the amp seems to work fine. Usually, this type of issue is due to a speaker wire shorting to something it shouldn't be touching. Check the "non-amp" end of all the wiring to make sure they are solid and correct.
you need a # 4 gauge wire.
check the subs conection no less than 1 ohm.
and if the cap is good.
13.8 volts are for max ouput ......this is 1 ohm of charge at 13.8 volts they give 2500 watts butt only at 13.8 volts whit this relation.
i¨n think you need other alternator.
Almost all after market amps use 12v at very very low amperage to trigger the amp on. A temporary jumper from the battery plus terminal on the amp AFTER the battery and ground wires are attached should cause the amp to turn on. I would check to see if you have attached your speaker load correctly ESPECIALLY if you are bridging. Most of the blown amps that come into my shop are due to incorrect bridging loads from the speakers. Note that a 4ohm load bridged across both outputs of an amp will deliver a 2ohm load to each of the channels. When you parallel wire two 4ohm speakers together and then attached them to a bridged amp you will be putting a 1 (one) ohm load to each channel of the amp. Please don't make this mistake. It will fry your amp in about a month. Hope this helps. Good luck.