I had a 12 v battery drain, then noticed my 200 Watt amp, the red light was on and stayed on when the car was shut off. Is it the Amp that is bad or a short?
If the amp goes off when the remote wire is disconnected what would that mean?
Comment posted on Jan 03, 2008
...and if it stays on when disconnected does it mean a bad mosfet in the AMP?
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
Pulled the radio and I checked the source of the radio connection.
The blue wire had been attached to the 12V constant.
The blue remote wire is now spliced to the red wire in the radio harness.
I re-attached the battery cables and power cable.
The Amplifier does go off now when I shut the car off.
The Amplifier however is not working and the red protection light stays on.
Looks like my Amplifier is bad?
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
The blue wire from the head unit is NOT connected to the red ignition wire. The "blue wire from the Amp remote" which is powering the remote turn on of the Amp is attached to the red ignition wire of the head unit.
Is that ok?
Thanks for the help,
Greg
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
When I have the wire that's going to the amp remote turn on terminal connected to the blue wire of the head unit (12 V constant) the AMP stays on all the time. When I switched it to the red wire the amp goes off
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
The red wire is the head unit "ignition" so when I turn off the car the AMP should then be off? correct?? there should be no battery drain from the AMP???
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
Do I need to place an in-line fuse someplace when having the remote turn on amp wire connected to the red wire of the head unit so i have my radio protected?
not to sure all we know is that the amp is draining battery when truck is off and will not power when ignition on. fuses all good battery is new . please help
Disconnect the wire from the remote turn-on terminal of the amp and insulate it so that is can not make contact with anything.
With the wire disconnected, does the amp remain on?
Comment posted on Jan 03, 2008
It would mean that the source feeding the wire isn't switching off as it should.
Comment posted on Jan 03, 2008
It could mean that there is a defective transistor but it's not likely to be an FET (mosfet).
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
Disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
The blue wire from the head unit is the wire that's used to power the remote turn-on terminal of the amp. It should not be connected to the red ignition wire. If the blue wire from the head unit is burned out, you can use the red wire to power the remote turn-on wire of the amp.
If you're new to car audio, you should read through the following site.
Why don't you have the wire that's going to the amp's remote turn-on terminal connected to the blue wire of the head unit instead of the red wire of the head unit. As you have it now, the amp will not go off if you turn the head unit off.
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
In that case, the circuit feeding the blue wire of the head unit is defective.
Having the remote turn-on of the amp connected to the red wire of the head unit is acceptable.
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
Using the ignition wire to control the amp will cause the amp to switch off when the ignition is off. There will be no drain unless the amplifier has a defect that's causing it to draw current when it's off.
Comment posted on Jan 04, 2008
The red wire feeds the radio. It's not an output from the head unit. There should be a 1 amp (or 1/2 amp) fuse where the remote turn on wire (going to the amp) taps off of the red wire.
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