Question about Sennheiser PXC 250 Consumer Headphones

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Replacing headphone connector

I have the PXC 250 headphones and I'm reploacing the connector. It's not stereo. There's 3 wires: red, green and copper. which is left, right and ground and any special conditions when resoldering? thanks, Ray
ramirdiaz@hotmail.com

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  • Anonymous Jan 05, 2008

    HiL I have the same problem. I contacted Sennheiser support but they reported that due to the nature of the wire used in these headphones, they cannot be re-soldered. I am wondering if I can replace the whole cable, removing it at the headphone end.

  • Roget Mar 08, 2008

    Well that's a bummer, I have the Sennheaiser PXC250 and have the same problem. I have just been searching the net to find out which wires go where on the replacement plug I bought at Radio Shack. I love the headphones, and they are not cheap - did Sennheiser have a plan to replair these? Can you send them in?

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My jack plug lead got yanked and broke the wires inside the electronics unit. There are three screws to undo in order to get inside the electronics, one by the cable entry and two very small cross head scvrews in deep holes halfway along the unit. I cut the jack lead on the outside close to the cable entry and drilled out the hole through the cable guide and then poked the jack cable back through the hole into the electronic unit. I was able to solder the three leads to their respective pads. There are five solder pads next to the cable entry. With the cable entry at the top, the middle pad connects to the green cable, the rightmost pad connects to the red cable and the copper connects to a pad about 1 cm down from the rightmost connector. The technique was to tin the ends of the leads with solder before soldering them to the pads. I used a blob of glue from a glue gun to hold the cable in place inside the electronics unit. My plan B if the soldering was not possible was to take a jack plug and lead from an unused set of earpieces and use that lead in place of the original. It would have been much more difficult to replace the lead from the electronics unit to the headset.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

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here is the schematic showing where the wires go. the thick copper is the copper that goes around the rest of the wires. it is not neat like the other wires, but lots of single strands. if you are missing some wires, cut 3 centimeter or so of the lead, the wires missing are probably broken further up the lead.
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Plan for strain relief:. These headphone wires can't take any tension at all. You need to crimp the black cords to the headphone jack somehow.

Slide strain relief and headphone jack housing over the over the rubber covered headphone cord.

  • You need to plan a way to relieve the pulling stress on the solder joints where the two headphone cords enter your replacement headphone jack.
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Hold each headphone cord in a "third hand" soldering assist tool and tease the green, red and copper bundles apart..I wore a 10x Magnavisor and I used a sewing needle and a bright light.

Twist the copper colored strands from both headphone cords together. They are the common ground wires. The copper colored bundle will attach to the headphone jack ground.

Apply a dab of solder to the end of each of the three bundles of wire. You will see and smell the insulating lacquer as it burns off. Keep most of the wire bundle cool.

Position the two strand headphone cord and the 3.5 mm headphone jack in the third hand soldering stand.
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  • Measure resistance, 31 ohms per earpiece.
  • Screw the jack cover on and finish the strain relief craftsmanship.



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