The unit has stopped cooling a few times in the past year. Initially it would recover on its own shortly after I discovered the issue. Originally I was not sure if the kids had left the freezer door slightly open. After it occurred a couple more times I was sure it was not the kids. The previous time this happened I cycled the defrost timer and it recovered, although the unit been unplugged for a few hours prior to that. This last time it happened I cycled the defrost timer several times without unplugging the unit but that didn't work. The compressor would click but it never started and it would shut down after a few seconds. It continued to do that every 10 minutes or so. I finally unplugged the unit over night. The next morning I plugged it in and it started working again. The compressor is under warrany so if that is the problem it would be covered. If it is any of the other parts I could replace them myself. It would be worth it to have a repair company look at the unit if I knew it was the compressor, but can that be determined if the unit is working? If it is any of the other parts I'd rather replace them myself.
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Typically after unplugging / replugging a refrigerator they will start running again within a few minutes. Have you checked the defrost timer? This will essentially interrupt the cooling cycle to provide time for the defrosting process. A faulty timer may be delaying the startup to after the next defrost cycle. Hope this helps..
Do you hear the compressor kick on, or try to kick on?If not, unplug the unit, remove the "overload relay" from the compressor and give it a shake. If it rattles, it is burnt out and needs to be replaced. Here is the new part.
If the "overload relay" is good, check to see if the "defrost timer" is stuck in the defrost mode. You can take a flat-head screwdriver and turn the timer til it clicks and it should start the compressor. Keep me posted!
Lets check start relay, run capacitor and thermostat. Also need you to pull away from the wall and unplug, remove cover over compressor and then feel the top of the compressor to see if warm or too hot to keep hand there. Should you need a start relay you will need=> 12002784 Relay and Overload Kit
12002784 Relay and Overload Point and Click Parts If the compressor is cool I want you to check the Adaptive Defrost control=> 12002104 Adaptive Defrost Control Sometimes these parts act like the compressor start relay and stop compressor and fans and even sometimes one or the other. The thermostat should also be checked while unplugged with an OHM meter=>61005327 Temperature Control Here is a pdf with the locations and should you have any questions I will be here again later, Thanks Sea Breeze
Switch off the fridge for several hours.. 6 hours. then switch on and check if ice forms in about 2-3 hours in the normal setting. If there is no cooling at all with the compressor running then it is possible that the gas is low or the compressor is faulty with low pumping pressure. get help to estimate and decide.
If the compressor is cooling initially but after several hours it is dropping , open the freezer panel to check for frosting. If so then the defroster is not working.or the thermostat is not cutting off the compressor,
check individually to confirm.. defrost timer, thermostat or heater.
Your unit is not a self defrosting freezer and consequently has no defrost timer. There are only four components required for cooling in your unit. The temperature control, behind the knob in the cabinet. The compressor at the back bottom. The start relay and overload in a box attached to the compressor. The run capacitor attached to the start relay. A failure of any of those will cause the compressor not to run.
Check the wall outlet to be sure you have power.
If the compressor IS running but not cooling, the compressor itself may be defective or the gas charge may have leaked out. Compressor and refrigeration problems are likely beyond your capabilities in terms of knowledge and equipment.
The temperature control may be tested by all connecting the wires of the control to ONE terminal after unplugging the freezer and marking down teh original locations of the wires. If the compressor runs and cools after this by-pass then change the control and return the wiring to the original locations.
If the above does not make the compressor run the next possibility is changing both the relay/overload assembly AND the run capacitor. If these fail to correct the problem you need a new compressor but you will likely NOT be able to return the parts replaced.
No, the relay was what caused the buzz click but i think a bad compressor could be responsible for blowing the relays out. If you had a bad defrost timer that was stuck in defrost thus compressor not running you would not get the buzz click..your comressor would also be cold.
i changed the overload relay- is it possible that a dusty underside of the refrigerator is causing insufficient airflow over the evaperator coil makeing the unit work harder? I also noticed the relay was discoloured when i took the old one appart, but never the less the unit works great. The part cost me 17.99 plus tax at Sears, it took me no time to get the relay off and replaced. cool huh
If you never hear fan running in freezer, this could be the case. How old is this unit? Newer ones have a electronic defrost board. Older ones have a mechanical defrost timer. If the fan in the freezer is on, and not getting cold...could be a compressor, or the relay/overload on the compressor. You'll need to check for voltage at the 2 wires at compressor. Should have about 110 volts when the freezer fan is on. If you have 110, Unplug unit and remove relay/ overload from compressor and shake it. If it rattles, you probably need the relay/overload. If this unit is only a few years old, it may be a compressor. We see these fail on these. Does it make a load hum for less than a minute followed by a click. And then after a bit, does it again. This is usually a bad compressor.