Washer won't aggatate

in side the agitator you have some dog agit. I call them dog ears. If this is the problem its an easy fix. give your model number to your parts store and till him you need dog agit. There should be little groves on them there is usally four of the dogs. If you still can't figure it out take the top half of you agitator to the parts store and they should be able to fix you right up.

1) Verify a circuit breaker isn't tripped
2) Advance the timer control dial slowly 360 degrees-

• If the washer starts spinning, then we know the motor and drive belt are fine but that there is something wrong with either the timer control dial or the agitator solenoid. Call in a professional for this.
  
• If the washer doesn't budge, then verify that the drive belt(s) is attached and not broken by removing the back panel. If the belt is broken, replace it. If it is loose, then tighten it by loosening up the bolt holding the motor and moving it on its swingarm (much like a car alternator) until there is a 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection in the belt.
  Some washers use reversing motors. It's possible the motor works on the spin cycle but not on the wash cycle. If so, call a pro.
  

3) Visually inspect the lid safety switch- Is it loose or cracked? If so, the washer might work intermittently, stopping at different cycles.
4) Check motor and drive belt- Remove the main access panel (usually in the back). Is the motor spinning, but the drive belt isn't? If so, then you have a drive belt problem.
If the motor isn't spinning,
the motor and see if it moves freely and is not bound up. If the belt refuses to turn, then suspect a burnt motor that will need replacement.
2) Check the connections to the motor. Make sure they are tightly secured. Loose connections can cause a reduction in power to the motor, allowing enough for it to hum, but not enough to turn the motor.
Replacing a washer motor is a fairly simple process:
1) Disconnect the wires, remove the mounting bolts, then remove the motor. Bench test it, if you wish to confirm failure.
2) Order a replacement that matches the original, especially in regards to its mounting arrangement. Compare the old one to the new one. Is the mounting bolt(s) in the same place?
3) Mount the motor and reattach the wires. When attaching the drive belt, give it e a 1/2 -3/4 inch deflection at the midpoint.
Your tub should spin now, eager for another day's work

If none of these tips resolve the problem, then there's probably a more serious problem with either the motor, the transmission or the agitator itself. If this is is the case, call in a pro.Hope this helps

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If the washer does nothing after filling, I'd try it on a different cycle.

If it works on another cycle, the problem points to the timer itself.

If you can hear the motor trying to run but the washer will neither agitate nor spin, the problem points initially to a Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission. It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

One other document that may help is the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for direct drive, top loading washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf