Hello, Ok if you have checked the heater, hi-limit, thermal fuse and thermostat and they are all good your problem is going to be with the centrifugal switch. This is built into the motor. To check this pull the wire harness off the motor and where you see the 2 big wires going into the plug make a jumper wire with 2 male spades and some wire. Jump this wires and then run a cycle for a few seconds. if the heater comes on you have found your problem. This will require you replace the motor. Hope this helps. Mike
Most models of electric dryers there are several safeties in place before you get to the element. Power comes from the timer and goes to a snap disc thermal cut out, a thermal fuse, through the element, back through a thermostat and a high limit, and even sometimes going through a centrifugal switch on the motor. This switch will not allow the element to come on unless the motor is running. If any of the components from the timer all the way through the element and back to the original power source are broken, you will have no heat. You can test most of them with a test light or a multimeter on continuity test.
Hope this helps
When you read out the heater and t-stats did you disconnect one of the wires if not it will show continuityalso check the heater again and make sure none of the coils are touching metal casing
could also have a broken wire somewhere
also read out the thermal fuse located on top of blower wheel housing
make sure you have 240 volts going to dryer and down to heater,problem could be in the house electrical and not the dryer,also make sure 240 is going down to heater,could have a bad timer or a bad motor,also some dryers have an even heat board in the console,a heat relay and a motor relay,the motor relay and the heat relay are the same,you can change them to see if that is your problem
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Sure can!
Most Kenmore style dryers have a heating element that has a long wire coil inside it, (often there are two wires or elements inside one housing). Regardless, if you have carefully checked the air exhaust, and you find it is "perfect" ( means no back-up heat from a plugged or impeded air flow) and you have determined the air flow inside the machine is like new, ( no back up there either), then what has possible happened is the wire heating element has wiggled loose and is touching itself, thereby shorting out and making super heat.
The wire coils are usually held loosely in place with white ceramic rings, to keep them from touching the metal housing. If you carefully remove the heating element "box or "tube" and look inside , you may be able to see the problem. Testing it with an ohm meter will not work, it will simply test OK. The element is made to heat at a certain temperature according to it's length, if it touches itself, the elecrttricity will take the shortest route and may make your element glow white hot in one spot. Be blessed.
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