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A while back my fan began slipping upon initial start-up I thought nothing of it as it grabbed and started functioning shortly after the amp had "warmed up". Next to happen was that the effects loop ceased to be an independent loop inside the amp and was stuck on rather. I bypass this by keeping the effects send down. Now however this morning I play my amp for about 5 minutes and my clean channel goes out. What to do?
Hey, i had the same problem as you and fixed it with a little bench work. i'm a certified electronics technician so i just took it into work and used the shop after hours. it is actually an easy fix, it was just that the troubleshooting took a long time. the actual labor shouldn't that take more than about 20 miniutes. i'll be happy to post the link and how to fix it for a 20$ check
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You do not specify what model you have.
It could be related to the power supply shutting down (e.g. from overheating) then restarting after cooling down.
If the mixer has a fan, you could check if it is uncovered, clean and running.
Are all the tubes lighting up? they should glow like dim light bulbs. If not, replace them with the same model type (12ax7, or EL34 for example).
Often there are two fuses, one to protect the speaker and another to protect everything, it sounds like the latter fuse may be burned out. take it out and take it to radio Shack for exact replacement.
The Eden has a thermostatically controlled fan, my first thought is to clean the fan and airways and make sure it is working properly. This relates to some heat problems on solid state stuff. If they get too hot, some shut off for protection, the fan should automatically speed up on this model to compensate. When volume is low watch the fan. Also, make sure the impedance switch is set properly. I've very rarely seen any reason to use 2ohms settings. The only way to run that is with 2 4ohm cabinets in parallel. If they are in series it would become 8ohm. Any other way will make the amp get too hot on 2 ohm setting. Most cabs are 4, 8, and 16.
The most likely case is that one of the main output transistors (if which there are many) is shorted. When the protect circuit senses DC on the final output, it will not allow the output relay to come on to protect the speakers from raw DC. With the power removed, you can check between each outputs Emitter and Collector and you will probably find close to zero ohms. From that point you need to unsolder each of the pins of the bad channel until you find the shorted device(s) and replace them.
The missing nut is not likely to kill the channel. You just bought this so exercise your warranty... unless it is used in which case you bought someone else's problem. Somebody probably blew out the channel by zapping it with high voltage that destroyed the input circuit of the channel. Often there are bypass capcitors right at the input which short out. If this is boiught used, take to a repair shop and if new, exercise your warranty. I suspect they removed the nut from the connector to mark the dead channel.
Do an initialization (factory reset) by holding the HIGHEST WHITE key down and turning on the power. Hold the key for an extended time until display confirms initialization complete. This will restore unit to factory defaults.
When it is working, wiggle the channel volume control WITHOUT rotating. If the sound cuts out, likely the soldering of the pot leads is broken where it attaches to the board. Try resoldering the connections.
SOMETIMES the control is damaged in which case it must be replaced.
Unfortunately, this is not a problem that will be easily resolved remotely. As far as I know, the main module is not a replacement part. These units are pretty rugged and it sound more like you have a power supply problem rather than a board problem. If you have not worked on one of these before, please do not attempt to dis-assemble one. These are a bit tricky to work on. More than likely, the problem will be either in the power suppy, or be a couple of defective surface mounted op-amp ICs. None of the parts required should be expensive. Based upon your description, I would expect a parts cost in the $15-$30 range.
Where are you located? Perhaps I can recommend a service shop.
Sounds like your master volume is turned up too much. The channel volume will make the squealing go away(caused by high gain and humbuckers). The best thing to do is dial in your favorite presets and change the channel volume to the correct level with the master volume where you usually keep it. I use my Spider Valve at master volume at about noon and the channel volume between nine o'clock and noon. Let me know if this does not solve the problem......
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