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you may need heat from a paint remover gun in order to loosen the grip on the shaft and you will need to take a flat screwdriver to get behind the seal to remove it press th new seal in evenly otherwise it wont seal properly maybe a friend from a garage could help eric
Hi mate this will be the oil & water seals the leak from weep hole is basically a warning light to tell you it needs replacing asap, you need to remove impellor, carefull not to lose the spacer washer behind it...then remove the water seal clean the surface it came from and replace with new seal. Now to do this 100% I would always replace the impeller shaft as the shaft wearing is usually what caused the seal to fail and I would also replace the oil seal which is the other side of case that you just changed the water seal (oil seal sits behind the small bearing) I would also consider replacing this bearing but maybe not critical? all up the impellor shaft the 2 seals and bearing last time I bought cost about $160... no special tools required just quite a bit of time required as you should really remove the outer engine case to access the impellor to undo it and to get to the oil seal and bearing, how ever I know guys do just open the water pump cover then rattle gun off the impellor only replace the water seal then install the impellor and cover back on then ride away! this will work and will fix the leak but is definitely the incorrect way to repair this and will be temporary fix but thought you may like to know this alternative as is very handy way to do it if your on a race meeting and just need to get through the last race or two.
It sounds like the tub seal is leaking, allowing water to leak out of the tub and damage the drum bearing. Unfortunately you need specialized tools to replace the seal and bearing, so you may have to get a maytag service agent in to look at it.
If you're handy with a welder you may be able to make up a tool yourself, it basically consists of a flat hexagon with tabs on the inside to fit the drum nut, and some handles on it.
You'll need to remove the front panel and top panel. Then remove the cap around the top of the tub.
The agitator is held on by a small screw near the base of the agitator, loosening it will allow you to remove it. Now you can see the tub nut, this is reverse threaded, so it's loosened clockwise. Then you can lift out the drum. Next on the shaft is the top part of the mechanical seal. Remove the grub screw out the side. Now you'll need the same tool you used for the tub nut to undo the seal, rotating in the same direction.
Remove the outer tub by undoing the 3 bolts that fix it to the stays, and disconnect the level tube and drain hose.
From here you should have printed instructions that come with the new parts to replace the seal and bearing.
Please feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions.
I worked on buicks at a dealer for 15 years and never saw a torque converter seal leaking...if its trans fluid that leaking i would suspect a front pump seal in the trans,If is not trans fluid make sure its not the back of the intake manifold leaking down the bellhousing seaming to leak from the trans. ..If oil maybe rear main seal... No special tools needed really just make sure you support the engine safely if you are going to remove the trans.....
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
Remove the differential housing cover (4033).
Loosen the bolts and drain the lubricant from the rear axle housing (4010).
Remove the bolts.
Remove the differential housing cover.
Remove the rear brake disc (2C026). For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
CAUTION: Turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) with the differential pinion shaft (4211) removed will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly and damage the components. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
Remove the differential pinion shaft.
CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the U-washer groove.
Remove the U-washer (4N237).
Push the axle shaft inboard.
Remove the U-washer.
Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
Install the differential pinion shaft.
Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.
CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal (1177). Remove the axle shaft.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Seal Removal
Remove the axle shaft (4334). For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
CAUTION: Never remove the wheel bearing oil seal (1177) by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing (1225) and the inner wheel bearing oil seal at the same time. NOTE: If the wheel bearing oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with foreign material. Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal together.
Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing.
For 4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI with limited slip rear axles and 5.0L vehicles, use SAE 75W-140 High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSL-M2C192-A.
For 4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI with conventional rear axles, use SAE 80W-90 Premium Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90-QL or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSP-M2C197-A.
Using the special tools, install the rear wheel bearing.
Lubricate the lip of the new wheel bearing oil seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
Using the special tools, install the wheel bearing oil seal.
Install the axle shaft. For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
Hello you can get the parts from any New Zealand F & P service center( $50-80nz). You need a special F & P tool kit (you can buy for around $100nz from F & P also) to remove the seal and bearings and to insert the new. unless you know an appliance tech or have a service manual it could be a tricky one. cheers
The tub seal kit is $85 USD, You will also need a drive bell kit$23 USD, you should replace the upper bearing $?, for a complete rebuilt I would also replace the brake pads all three, and the belt, maybe the pump if it doesnt come off easily. Plus what you break taking it apart, so we are looking @ least $150.
Yes you can do it yourself, you dont need the tub wrench if you can borrow a deep socket, its the drive bell seal tool you really need.
Please let me know if you have additional questions. the serial number will tell you the age first two digits are year next two are month, starts with and R, built in Ripon WI.